Acropora bleaching, help

MarcosTacos

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Sorry for the long post, I just want to give everyone as much info as possible:

3 weeks ago I bought 7 acropora frags, they all seemed healthy and were bought from a local sps guy who is pretty knowledgeable. I dipped them all in coralRX and rinsed them in saltwater before gluing them to the rock.

A week later I left for a 2 week trip. When I cam back, I had small patches of cyano and 3 of the frags had bleached and the healthy ones had no polyp extention at all:
- my green slimer bleached almost completely, a small spot of green is visible near the frag plug:
PXL_20231121_163952462.MP.jpg

- Some other frag named Winterland is pale brown and looks unhealthy
- Some other frag named RR Godzilla bleached at the top except for one tip, there is also some die off near the base, I would say half the coral is dead and the rest is still colored:
PXL_20231121_163950072.MP.jpg

One weird thing is that I accidentally broke small pieces of some of the frags I bought and these show polyp extention on my frag rack while the ''mother colonies'' don't:
PXL_20231121_163936658.MP.jpg


My tank (40 gal cube) has been setup almost a month ago (tank transfer) with some very established live rock and some new rock (i'd say half and half) I also added small doses of beneficial bacteria from microbacter 7 and Fauna Marin bacto therapy. I have a lot of other sps, like montiporas, birdsnest, stylos, a small golden rod and one other acro, as well as euphillia and softies which all seem to be doing great.

Before adding this batch of acros, I had rented a par meter to measure the par around the top and my XR15 G5 PRO output 200-225 PAR on the surface of the rocks at 100%. I decided to run it at 80% to acclimate everything before I left on my trip, which meant 170-190 PAR in those areas. I run 2 nero 5's on the back wall which provides some good flow to the areas where the acros are (40% pulse) and placed them a bit over them not to directly blast them with flow.

Parameters dipped a bit while on my trip, I dosed All For Reef to maintain them but the dose wasn't enough so I dropped around 1DKH, 30ppm calcium and 50ppm mag over 2 weeks, which doesn't seem too bad to me. Phos was 0.05 and nitrates were 5-10ppm when I tested upon my return. Temp hovers around 78 and salinity is at 1.026. I don't run anything except floss which is changed every couple of days, I have a gravity fed ato which keeps salinity stable and my RO unit was recently overhauled, it reads 3 tds at the membrane and then 0 out from my dual resin canisters. I have 2 clowns, a damsel a clown goby and a cleaner shrimp which don't seem to touch or bother the corals.

I tried looking for pests like red bugs or AEFW but I didn't spot any. I knew acroporas were harder to keep but I managed to color up a brown frag I had been given without any difficulty so thought why not try more? I am a bit confused right now and would like some input on what I did wrong so I can improve in the future.

Sorry again for the long post!
 
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Mr. Mojo Rising

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1. its very normal to have some issue's after a vacation

2. The tank is very new, only one month old, and acro is the hardest most sensitive coral, so you're really expecting a lot by adding acro's to a brand new tank, and then leaving for 2 week vacation.

3.The other corals you mentioned are much easier than acro, cannot compare their success to acro because acro is harder. A lot of us do very well with all corals, and then hit a brick wall with acro's.
 
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MarcosTacos

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I am aware that acropora are the harder corals to keep. However, my live rock is very old and established (10+ years).

I figured that transfering my tank would be the same as adding new rock to my old system, in which I kept one acro with success by coloring it up from basically no sign of life.
 

ScottB

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I'll speculate the following: It isn't really just one factor that led to their demise but instead multiple little stressors. A new biome would be high on my list of factors. Next would be a likely substantial difference in available PAR. Most acros do well closer to 350 and higher. Next your chemistry numbers look fine, but how well do they match the source system? Lastly, I am not a fan of Coral Rx for acropora. Pretty effective but much harsher than potassium chloride. Add 'em all up.

Cut back what is dead and leave the rest. That little green slimer nub can recover.
 

Mr. Mojo Rising

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I am aware that acropora are the harder corals to keep. However, my live rock is very old and established (10+ years).

I figured that transfering my tank would be the same as adding new rock to my old system, in which I kept one acro with success by coloring it up from basically no sign of life.
half your rock is dry if I understood correctly, the dry rocks will still go through a cycling process, which will mess with the tank parameters.

But I don't think its the only factor, I think its a combo of a few things
 

ninjamyst

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Tank too immature even with old live rock. Not to mention dip and gluing to rock right away is very stressful. Usually people leave new frags on a rack for a week or two after dip to let them settle before gluing them.
 
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MarcosTacos

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I'll speculate the following: It isn't really just one factor that led to their demise but instead multiple little stressors. A new biome would be high on my list of factors. Next would be a likely substantial difference in available PAR. Most acros do well closer to 350 and higher. Next your chemistry numbers look fine, but how well do they match the source system? Lastly, I am not a fan of Coral Rx for acropora. Pretty effective but much harsher than potassium chloride. Add 'em all up.

Cut back what is dead and leave the rest. That little green slimer nub can recover.
I agree on everything except on the par, the guy I bought them from grows them around 200-250 par, how would lower par be detrimental to that extent? I assumed they would just brown out.
 
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MarcosTacos

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Tank too immature even with old live rock. Not to mention dip and gluing to rock right away is very stressful. Usually people leave new frags on a rack for a week or two after dip to let them settle before gluing them.
I only glued the plugs they were on to the rock, not the corals themselves so that shouldn't be all that stressful.
 

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