Acrylic 5x3x1 small leak at seam!

[1mbrews8]

One of my acrylic tanks is leaking.

What is the best way to fix it?

It appears like it is just leaking on that one side and when I push on that pane of acrylic, the leak definitely stops so I'm thinking all I need is some weld on along that seam?

Maybe a new piece of small acrylic to brace it?

The tank is 5 foot by 3 foot. 12 inches tall.



http://m.imgur.com/eXJgHPN
http://m.imgur.com/uOP6Mnc
http://m.imgur.com/COVjjbl

 

[kschweer]

I personally wouldn't use a tank with a leak. Just a disaster waiting to happen in my opinion. However maybe @Floyd R Turbo or @Pepcrylic may be able to help.

 

[1mbrews8]

yeah, it wouldn't be my first choice, but plumbing for store, etc already done, so if it just a simple weld on #3 or something fix...... I'd be down lol!

 

[Pepcrylic]

Drain the tank. Clean that corner really good and wipe it down with denatured alcohol. Get a 1/2'' X 1/2'' piece of acrylic the length of the seam. Set the tank up so the seam is the lowest point of the tank (approx 45 deg). Before you weld the acrylic square rod in place be sure to knock down the corner of the rod that is going to fit into the corner of the tank. This will assure that the square rod will touch both sides of the tank. Once it is set in place use weldon 3 or 4 to wick into the seam. Let it set for 30-45 sec. then apply some pressure to the acrylic rod. I have had luck with a skinny stick running from the other corner of the tank. Let it set up for approx 18-24 hrs. Good luck. If there is one bad seam in the tank.... Is there another?????

 

[1mbrews8]

Drain the tank. Clean that corner really good and wipe it down with denatured alcohol. Get a 1/2'' X 1/2'' piece of acrylic the length of the seam. Set the tank up so the seam is the lowest point of the tank (approx 45 deg). Before you weld the acrylic square rod in place be sure to knock down the corner of the rod that is going to fit into the corner of the tank. This will assure that the square rod will touch both sides of the tank. Once it is set in place use weldon 3 or 4 to wick into the seam. Let it set for 30-45 sec. then apply some pressure to the acrylic rod. I have had luck with a skinny stick running from the other corner of the tank. Let it set up for approx 18-24 hrs. Good luck. If there is one bad seam in the tank.... Is there another?????

Yes, I plan on doing them all while I am at it :eek:)

The issue with that is that there is already an old piece there.. a square one would not fit too good. maybe 2 triangle ones to "cover the old seams"?

 

[cromag27]

Is there already a gusset in place?

 

[cromag27]

BTW, I would only use wo 42 for gusset repairs. 3 and 4 tend to be too thin to adhere the gusset to both panels, especially if the 90 degree angle has now changed due to warping.

 

[1mbrews8]

not sure if it is a gusset? It is like a triangle length to fit in the corner, but has the "flat" side which is facing into the tank, rounded in a concave way to be smooth..? The pics should show it better than i can explain :o)

 

[cromag27]

Did you buy this tank new or used? we typically use gussets for repair jobs. so if this tank has a gusset along that seam already, then cut the end panel off and weld on another panel.

 

[1mbrews8]

Did you buy this tank new or used? we typically use gussets for repair jobs. so if this tank has a gusset along that seam already, then cut the end panel off and weld on another panel.

used.. no other way than cutting it off? i dont feel very confident about that lol!

 

[cromag27]

I wouldn't recommend a gusset over a gusset, you'd just be piling up bandages. I personally would not feel comfortable fixing this seam, regardless of method. do you have any acrylic gurus in your area?

 

[1mbrews8]

I wouldn't recommend a gusset over a gusset, you'd just be piling up bandages. I personally would not feel comfortable fixing this seam, regardless of method. do you have any acrylic gurus in your area?

not that i know of and def none close to me lol!

It stops as soon as I put just a bit of pressure against it, so don't think its "deep"..

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

I can't tell, is this on one of the 2 tanks that are sitting next to each other? The stand could be part of the issue, but I can't tell what the span is. I'm guessing it's not the issue but could eventually contribute to making it worse

 

[cromag27]

Looks like the tank on the right. but if there's already a gusset there, I'm thinking it leaked before and that was the fix.

 

[1mbrews8]

Looks like the tank on the right. but if there's already a gusset there, I'm thinking it leaked before and that was the fix.

yes, it is one of (2) 5x3 tanks "back to back" on one steel stand. All the corners have the gusset, so I am pretty sure that is how they were built and not fixes...

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

not sure if it is a gusset? It is like a triangle length to fit in the corner, but has the "flat" side which is facing into the tank, rounded in a concave way to be smooth..? The pics should show it better than i can explain :eek:)

After watching the video multiple times it looks like it's one of a few things:

1) a triangle rod solvent welded into the corner

2) a triangle rod bonded into the corner with 2-part (weld on 40) - my guess is this, based on the shape of the air bubbles in the joint, which don't appear to be air intrusion but rather pocket formation due to not totally eliminating the bubbles from the mix before pouring, which is generally OK

3) a straight up pour of Weld-on 40 into each seam

Either way, someone screwed the pooch when they put the tanks together in the first place.

BTW, I would only use wo 42 for gusset repairs. 3 and 4 tend to be too thin to adhere the gusset to both panels, especially if the 90 degree angle has now changed due to warping.

I wouldn't recommend a gusset over a gusset, you'd just be piling up bandages. I personally would not feel comfortable fixing this seam, regardless of method.

I tend to agree here. But if you wanted to try for a repair, it's going to be multi-level. Short of taking a panel off and replacing it, it's going to be something like this:

1) empty tank and dry out really really well - like with fans, hair dryers, etc. Need to get all the water out of the affected joints. If possible, create a separation in the affected area and insert a pin (even a stick-pin or sewing needle) to open up the joint and get it super dry. Blow out with compressed air, etc. Might take a while, like days or even a week to get it really dry.

2) use WO #3 or #4 to seal up the breach. When you do this, make sure you leave those needles/pins in place so that the solvent can get in as deep into the void as possible. After you get it in there, pull the pins out and clamp everything together as best you can. So clamp across the outside, and on the inside a brace to push outward, might take a bit to figure that out but should be able to do with with some wood 1x2's

Edit: clamps should not be overly tight. Just snug enough so that air won't sneak into the joint.

3) after a day or curing, take all the clamps out and apply Weld-on 40 to the affected joint. Prop the tank up so that the affected corner is at the bottom creating a "V". Rough up the surface of the old gusset with sandpaper, 80 or 40 grit or something. Rough up a bit of the panel adjacent to either side of it also, maybe 1/4" or so along the entire joint. vacuum out well, blow out, clean the entire bonding surface with denatured alcohol, etc - get rid of all particles. Pour the 40 into the V over the old gusset/joint/whatever it is and make sure you have about 1/2" worth for coverage. Let that cure up for a few days and that's likely to be about as good as you're going to get.

Anyone else see a flaw with that process?

 

[1mbrews8]

After watching the video multiple times it looks like it's one of a few things:

1) a triangle rod solvent welded into the corner

2) a triangle rod bonded into the corner with 2-part (weld on 40) - my guess is this, based on the shape of the air bubbles in the joint, which don't appear to be air intrusion but rather pocket formation due to not totally eliminating the bubbles from the mix before pouring, which is generally OK

3) a straight up pour of Weld-on 40 into each seam

Either way, someone screwed the pooch when they put the tanks together in the first place.



I tend to agree here. But if you wanted to try for a repair, it's going to be multi-level. Short of taking a panel off and replacing it, it's going to be something like this:

1) empty tank and dry out really really well - like with fans, hair dryers, etc. Need to get all the water out of the affected joints. If possible, create a separation in the affected area and insert a pin (even a stick-pin or sewing needle) to open up the joint and get it super dry. Blow out with compressed air, etc. Might take a while, like days or even a week to get it really dry.

2) use WO #3 or #4 to seal up the breach. When you do this, make sure you leave those needles/pins in place so that the solvent can get in as deep into the void as possible. After you get it in there, pull the pins out and clamp everything together as best you can. So clamp across the outside, and on the inside a brace to push outward, might take a bit to figure that out but should be able to do with with some wood 1x2's

Edit: clamps should not be overly tight. Just snug enough so that air won't sneak into the joint.

3) after a day or curing, take all the clamps out and apply Weld-on 40 to the affected joint. Prop the tank up so that the affected corner is at the bottom creating a "V". Rough up the surface of the old gusset with sandpaper, 80 or 40 grit or something. Rough up a bit of the panel adjacent to either side of it also, maybe 1/4" or so along the entire joint. vacuum out well, blow out, clean the entire bonding surface with denatured alcohol, etc - get rid of all particles. Pour the 40 into the V over the old gusset/joint/whatever it is and make sure you have about 1/2" worth for coverage. Let that cure up for a few days and that's likely to be about as good as you're going to get.

Anyone else see a flaw with that process?

THANK YOU! Awesome write up!!

My only thing is all the plumbing is done, and it would be a HUGE undertaking to take the returns and the drains loose :o(

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

Yeah I feel ya...but there's not much of another way to do it, reliably

 

[Reefpro]

THANK YOU! Awesome write up!!

My only thing is all the plumbing is done, and it would be a HUGE undertaking to take the returns and the drains loose :eek:(

I hate to say it but I have learned the hard way in this hobby. I have been given sound advice on several things during my time in salt water reefing and on more than one occasion I did not take the advice of the guys are experts in the issues I was dealing with and tried to take an easier road instead of the road less traveled.......ultimate fails were the results. My point is sometimes you gotta go backwards to go forward. It sounds like your getting some good sound advice here...might wanna give it a shot. Good luck with repairs.

 

[cromag27]

Sounds like somebody wasn't too sure of their acrylic fabrication skills. :)

yes, it is one of (2) 5x3 tanks "back to back" on one steel stand. All the corners have the gusset, so I am pretty sure that is how they were built and not fixes...