Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

dbl

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And while we're talking about safety, take off all jewelry and pull back your hair if it's long. I do a lot of woodworking as well and always put my hair in a pony and remove my rings, necklaces and bracelets. hearing and eye protection too - always! wood is bad in your eyes but acrylic is worse.

Excellent points. I'm just a little jealous you have enough hair to put in a pony tail!
 

cromag27

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Every year I have less and less to pull back.

Excellent points. I'm just a little jealous you have enough hair to put in a pony tail!
 

TherealplexiG

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@cromag08 @Floyd R Turbo @Lowell Lemon
On the other forum this is as stated by James (Envision Acrylics), when talking about pins/wires etc. He uses tungsten wire.

Diameter of pins he uses.
" But yes, .008" for thinner material, .014" for thicker.

For thinner material (<3/4") I just have to push down on the material. The foam will compress and allow for insertion of the wire. On thicker material, yes, I lift the piece to allow the wire in. When the solvent is applied, I then release the spring clamps and set the joint,"


Do ya'll use such thin wires?
.008" would be 0.2 mm
I used .4mm wire on a 8mm joint. the capillary was slick as slick ross. But solvent went dry too fast nearly had a 10 sec frame to pull them pins. I didn't had no ethylene dichloride to slow down the reaction time. So i went with 4 % Acid and 96% DCM. And while looking at it, its almost like a capillary method, when you pull them pins you dont feel the bang or thud of solvent splashing out. I'll post a pic later when i lift the assembly.
 

TherealplexiG

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Them pics.
Still not getting it perfect. But with limited resources, it's heck of a progress as the way it's going.

@Floyd R Turbo
Could you elaborate on butt welding 2 sheets using 2 part.

IMG_20160713_171317_HDR.jpg


IMG_20160713_171302_HDR.jpg
 
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TherealplexiG

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Hi Bud,
My router blew in flames, stray voltage or something blew the motor. I'm getting a decent 2 1/4 HP router but it has a plunge base. Would it make a difference while routing for acrylics.
 

TaylorPilot

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One of those Bosch motors with both bases work well. As far as plunge vs standard, I prefer the regular ones because it is allot easier to make fine adjustments.
 

cromag27

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Plunge is fine, just make sure it's lock down so it doesn't accidently plunge.

Hi Bud,
My router blew in flames, stray voltage or something blew the motor. I'm getting a decent 2 1/4 HP router but it has a plunge base. Would it make a difference while routing for acrylics.
 

cromag27

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Here's a question for the big brains. I make a lot of ato containers and I use 3/8" but I get a lot of requests for a black or colored top. I was thinking about just using 1/4" for the top since I can't easily get 3/8" in black or colors. Yay or nay?
 

Lowell Lemon

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Here's a question for the big brains. I make a lot of ato containers and I use 3/8" but I get a lot of requests for a black or colored top. I was thinking about just using 1/4" for the top since I can't easily get 3/8" in black or colors. Yay or nay?

I am not a big brain but if the column height is not over the 3/8" material requirement you should have no problems at all.
 

cromag27

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That's what I figured. Thanks big brain!
 

TherealplexiG

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One of those Bosch motors with both bases work well. As far as plunge vs standard, I prefer the regular ones because it is allot easier to make fine adjustments.

Our country is the junkyard for obsolete products. Hence i have very limited buying options. Pain!

Do ya'll flush trim on the table itself? or use the router manually?
 

cromag27

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Doubt you'll be able to find a porter cable in the junkyard. :)

I flush trim on a table only.
 
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Hi Bud,
My router blew in flames, stray voltage or something blew the motor. I'm getting a decent 2 1/4 HP router but it has a plunge base. Would it make a difference while routing for acrylics.
A good rule of thumb: never plunge route acrylic. Or as James/Acrylics puts it "never plunge route acrylic, please"
 

TaylorPilot

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I do it on the table. With a spiral bit that pulls away from the bearing. This pushes the chips away from the bearing and actually aids in pulling the acrylic down towards the table. I think it is actually called an upcut bit. Since the standard orientation is for the router to be on a base and the bit to be facing down. In that orientation, the chips would be flying up. It is a bit confusing. The main thing is that the chips fly away from the bearing.

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/2-...1-1-4-cut-length-1-2-shank-whiteside-rft5125/

I have used this model allot. They last a good amount of time, and leave a nice edge. They make it in a 2" long version as well, but I would think you would only use it if you were cutting some pretty thick acrylic. I am sure you can get nicer bits, but I think you probably get to a point of diminishing returns. What brand are you guys using?
 

TherealplexiG

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A good rule of thumb: never plunge route acrylic. Or as James/Acrylics puts it "never plunge route acrylic, please"

I don't wanna plunge route anything, it's just that availability of good reputed router, which has a plunge base. I want to mount it under the table and replace my burnt router. I have read, plunge routers aren't so stable as fixed based. I don't have much experience with routers. My use would be only limited for acrylics.
 

TherealplexiG

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@TaylorPilot
What's your take on routing small pieces? How do you route your overflow end panes, i guess they seem to be 6" x 1.5" or something.
 

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