Discussion in 'Do It Yourself (DIY)' started by Floyd R Turbo, Dec 7, 2015.
Thanks @cromag08 . Going to drill them today after I shovel the snow off a couple of driveways.
70 degrees here today. no snow.
This is our first snowfall that we actually have to shovel. I don't mind it so much as it's not as cold when it's snowing. Hubby hates it. He'd rather be cutting the grass. LOL
@cromag08 Check out the post in the link below. It works pretty well. It uses allot of air though. I think the amount of air they use is the difference between the cheap ones and high dollar Snap-On air tools. Although, unless you are doing allot of work, or have a small compressor, it isn't worth it IMHO. Also, the standard pads it came with wore out pretty quick polishing the edges of the acrylic. I went and bought a kit at AutoZone made by 3M that worked allot better.
i have large and small compressors. i was thinking about picking up the polisher and using the 3m kit.
Sorry, just to clarify... did you buy a whole different kit from az? or just new pads to use with the air polisher?
Just new pads. The air tool itself works fine. Also, if you have a regulator, turn it down to about 50 PSI and start there. At 90+ it was slinging stuff all over the garage. Still have some stuck on the roof!
Something like this...
They make them in several different colors. The color denotes how soft the pad it. I think the purple ones have a little more bite to them. Buffing out black acrylic is a PAIN, but clear isn't too bad. You really just have to play around with it and try a few, but none of it is cheap. By the time I had two types of compound, all the different stages of paper, tape, the buffer and new pads, I was probably into it for about $150. But once you get it done, you really will like the results. Just remember to start small, because each step has to feather out past the previous stage. So if you start with too large of an area, by the time you are done, you are buffing out half the panel! Let us know how it goes!
I've been polishing the same way for about 11 years. I hate it and it's so time consuming. I'm always looking for faster methods, so far I haven't found one. but I'm keeping hope alive!
I am in Thailand right now and taking a look at the local aquarium scene. Do you have nay suggestions as to what to see or maybe an acrylic or glass tank maker in the area to visit?
I am not from Thailand! I have visited several times, don't know much about tank makers there but you should totally check out chatuchak fish market.
Thanks for the suggestion and I hope to do just that before I leave. I was aware you were not in Thailand but just wondered who might be making some of the tanks we see in Asia. I would like to find a tank maker that makes tanks like the ADA brand for export to America. So far China seems to have a lock on the market.
China have a strong hold in producing cheap glass tanks. There are few local tank makers from Indonesia who work with glass and acrylics but are custom tank makerz. I guess Thailand is more about freshwater fish, I might be wrong.
What thickness will u use to build a sump of 32" x 16" x 15" with 3 compartments?
Assuming that LWH then you could get away with 1/4" but it'll bow a bit, rimless would IMO be stretching it with 1/4" but you could do rimless with 3/8" outer walls and 1/4" bottom.
My formula for all sumps anymore is 1/4" bottom, 3/8" outer walls, and 1/4" baffles except make "pressure baffles" 3/8" (where you have a water level difference on either side of the baffle). Rimless is OK to maybe 16" and after that, a 1/4" thick 1.5" wide perimeter euro (for smaller sumps, <30g) and maybe a 2" crossbrace if it works with the baffle placement. Bumping up the euro width is good when you can swing it, the wider/longer the tank, the wider the euro.
Baffle placement is a big factor, if you have a long fuge/skimmer section that has to be factored in, baffles provide a ton of support when done right (bonded in at the same time as ends so your bonds are structural) and can reduce the dependency on the euro
Tks, will be doing 2" euro bracing and 2 x 2" cross brace.
For a 36" long tank, you only need one crossbrace if even that, honestly.
@Floyd R Turbo
Have you ever built a nano aio? I have a few requests for them, but I'm not sure of the assembly order when it comes to the false wall and baffles.
Here you go...
Wick the baffles to the false wall first..
You gotta go opposite of how you build a normal tank. Sides wicked to the back pane. Fix a single side to the back pane either one. Then you should either make some supports or jig for fixing the baffles and false wall assembly to the back pane. After that you can finish off with the other side to the end and then to the false wall. Lastly front panel. Further you know what to do.... Hope it makes sense to you...
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