FUNGI
2500 Club Member
sorry late to this party, but why would this not work?
Adding a ramp timer
- Thread starter jsmkmavity
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DanyL
Valuable Member
I think you missed my point in dumping the current firmware. This alone allows us to program any esp8266 with it and debug it.
It can than be connected to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer, maybe there are even logs that may give us some useful information.
And even without flashing it - it is possible to reverse the firmware itself, which given a good decompiler (which again - last I checked, there weren’t any. But it’s been awhile) - one could reverse the exact code that produce the PWM signal.
So it is useful regardless wether you will be using both the firmware or the old microcontroller.
The esptool is for all esp based board.
The driver - to any board using the same USB controller.
Well the only useful info I can think of is what frequency the gpio pwm pin is set to. That just needs an oscilloscope. And that won't tell you if the driver can accept a range of frequencies. Anyways from the specs its limited to 100-1000Hz.
Possibly how to change the logon method?
I mean you may be right.. I'm not seeing it though. This isn't a complicated system just unknown.
Second you are always stuck w/ WIFI though there are work arounds but any changes to the light (assuming you managed to hurdle the wifi thing) would need to be signed on to the controllers wifi network.then after changes signing out and logging in to another network .. if you want.
I think it a great learning experience though so don't get me wrong.
And some of the things learned will help IF one goes to a new board and new firmware/software.
It's not even my light and I'm getting impatient.. LOL..
As to software from scratch.. I got this thing about people constantly re-inventing the wheel.
As I also have seen that these Chinese (Possibly India) programmers with aquarium LIGHTING are not the top notch ones.
I'd like to know the voltage on the yellow and the white wire on the driver
vr1 to ground and pwm to ground. got an oscilloscope see what the frequency is..
in both manual mode and wifi mode.
My dad used to push pins through the wires in order to not need to remove them but give a spot to measure from. Odd huh..
Yes it's free.. as to versions.. well usually get the latest. And wait for someting to bite you in the..
just kidding.,.. SORT of.
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/installing-the-esp32-board-in-arduino-ide-windows-instructions/
BUT first... version 2
https://www.arduino.cc/en/software/#experimental-software
don't forget the cable..
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Unrelated.. but this things pretty cool..
https://github.com/oldrev/borneo/blob/master/hw/datasheets/blc06mk1.pdf
Well if that isn' t special...same person...
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/i...-led-controller-and-app-from-scratch.1099162/
https://github.com/oldrev/borneo/blob/master/hw/datasheets/blc06mk1.pdf
Well if that isn' t special...same person...
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/i...-led-controller-and-app-from-scratch.1099162/
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OP
OP
We have kits of various size and style "pins" now to back probe connectors like your dad used to do. Sometimes with it connected, sometimes with it disconnected because the opening in the connector is so small. I am sure anybody puting together electronics has the same thing.
Yes, i noticed it was the same person earlier today. Sent a message asking when it will be available.
Yes, i noticed it was the same person earlier today. Sent a message asking when it will be available.
You don't and probably can't use the drivers..
Your voltage on the DC to the LEDs is too high.
So again using manual dim and at 100% if you measure the voltage to the LEDs you will find it's probably around. 80- 90V
Current should be around 550mA.
If you measure the voltage without the led board plugged in the driver should ramp up to its maximum voltage possible. Probably around 100v DC.
Something else to measure to understand the circuity.
A WARNING ..some drivers do not take kindly to " hot swapping" i.e energize them and then plug them into the led board. Either have a load attached or measure then shut off.
OP
OP
Pwm to ground whites channel 0/4.4
VR1 to ground whites channel 1.8/2.6
Pwm to ground blues channel 0/4.4
VR1 to ground blues channel 2.45/4.45
VR1 to ground whites channel 1.8/2.6
Pwm to ground blues channel 0/4.4
VR1 to ground blues channel 2.45/4.45
Well 4.4 is close to 5....though I was expecting 3.3...
I like your number..
Not sure what to do w the vr number
Were those measurements taken in manual or wifi mode?
200Hz is pretty low but within the 100-1000Hz range if the esp.
Point is it looks like a fairly standard dim ming protocol.
I' d feel better if either the vr or pwm were like zero on vr if pwm is 4 4 and something on vr if pwm was close to zero.
In other words and either or situation.
There's a moonlight function?
You pretty well destroyed my belief in I know what I'm doing..
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Fans I understand..the moonlight I don"t.
There may be a missing "part" under that wiring mess. Or it's tied into the fan circuit..
Cutting the power to the AC to the 12V power supply will determine that, maybe.
12v board.. Also any idea of what is under that black thing (arrow) ?
Remember I suspected the power to the microprocessor may come from that board as well. Then cutting the power will not tell us anything since it may quench the main drivers.
CAUTION If the leds are ON you can't run it fanless for long due to heating.
BTW in a discussion with oldrev there is no simple way to switch his program or of course programmer from wifi to bluetooth.
BUT a suggestion was to get an old router (no need to hook it to a modem or such). Just use it to complete the process the software requires. If this doesn't work with the current software it will work with theirs.
They are dirt cheap if you don't have one lying around..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1674436880...f8NESj83yIFyVXAgsEMPoEpw==|tkp:Bk9SR_qS16DFZQ
Actually I'd skip the above. To simplify things i'd not get a dual band router.
Cheap new 2.4GHz wifi router
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2969133603...3Q45BwD7d9VgD+Yn6XiKPTwRA=|tkp:Bk9SR5qK3qHFZQ
One more measurement ..brown and orange wire voltage to the microcontroller.
BTW 21 leds on blue channel 3 on independent (good thing) moonlight channel, 28 on the white channel.
To drive 28 "3w class" leds in series at 550mA would require close to 100V DC..
Driving 3 only requires about 7v .. All based on a n average V(f) of 3.3V
Using a "dummy" network will solve a lot of problems inc. your Orphek one.. maybe. Still need to get the respective apps..
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OP
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