Advice needed DIY 75 gallon stand

wickette

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Do I need more braces connecting the front and back of the frame, or am I done?
(photo labeled, self explanatory)


fd.jpg


(yes I know I went overboard with load bearing)
 
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Marcom12

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Are you putting a sump under? I'd maybe put some front to back on bottom. Mostly just for support of anything you put in bottom.
 

Matt Carden

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I would say the outer braces you already have installed are enough for structural integrity. I would use
2 - 2"x4" on top and bottom evenly spaced to spread the load from your tanks.
 

Lukas75

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No, I have a similar design and it is fine. That stand is capable of holding up a truck. Look up the strength of a 2x4 I'm not exaggerating, in fact I might be underestimating what it will hold.
 
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Lukas75

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No, I have a similar design and it is fine. That stand is capable of holding up a truck. Look up the strength of a 2x4 I'm not exaggerating, in fact I might be underestimating what it will hold.
I took a second look just to make sure all of your joints were supported correctly and realized you have even additional bracing above what I already mentioned, you'll be more than fine.
 

Lingwendil

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If you want to be anal you could add a center piece in the middle on the bottom frame (just like the top has) but otherwise it's already overbuilt as it is.

Are you skinning it with plywood, and are you putting ply on the top and on the bottom (on top of the frame)? If so I wouldn't bother adding anything other than a center brace on the bottom. The extra bits you've pictured aren't even necessary.
 
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wickette

wickette

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Are you putting a sump under? I'd maybe put some front to back on bottom. Mostly just for support of anything you put in bottom.

Thanks all. When I designed the stand, my plan was to use a 20L sump. Decided to upgrade to a 29, but HAVE TO put it on the floor. (or put a center braces and use a 20L)
 
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wickette

wickette

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No, I have a similar design and it is fine. That stand is capable of holding up a truck. Look up the strength of a 2x4 I'm not exaggerating, in fact I might be underestimating what it will hold.

Conservatively vertical load capacity is 36,000 lbs. realistically 58,000lbs.

One 30" 2x4 has the vertical strength to hold up a truck. Load isnt the issue with these stands, torsion is.

danged if I can figure out torsion resistance of this stand without a phd in material physics.
 
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Marcom12

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Conservatively vertical load capacity is 36,000 lbs. realistically 58,000lbs.

One 30" 2x4 has the vertical strength to hold up a truck. Load isnt the issue with these stands, torsion is.

danged if I can figure out torsion resistance of this stand without a phd in material physics.
Yeah, the cross braces .... At least for me.... Is mostly just twist, or torsion, prevention. Usually once skinned that isn't a huge issue especially if on a flat, level floor.
 
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wickette

wickette

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How many gallons need to be supported?
75 and a reasonably heavy wood topper 2x3 borders with a 3/4" MDF/veneer covered top, ... like 40lbs+ extra weight. (but if my cats ever jump on the tank it wont be a blood bath)

If you want to be anal you could add a center piece in the middle on the bottom frame (just like the top has) but otherwise it's already overbuilt as it is.

Are you skinning it with plywood, and are you putting ply on the top and on the bottom (on top of the frame)? If so I wouldn't bother adding anything other than a center brace on the bottom. The extra bits you've pictured aren't even necessary.

The bottom half of the back will be covered with 18" strip of plywood.

The top of the stand will have a 1/2 plywood topper but glued not tacked.

The plan for now is to have thin plywood recessed inside gaps of the sides, held in by latex caulk, zero torsion resistance.

If anyone here thinks it will make a big difference I can skin it from the outside with ply and tacks, then add a trim. Its a lot more efforts and and extra $30 cost, dont want to do it that way if its fine as it.

Ideally, if its not fine as is, I rather keep the design as is and add some shelving brackets, or corner braces. But again, idk if the will do much against torsion.
 

redfishbluefish

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These Rocketengineer designed stands are so over engineered that the comments about holding a truck are true.

Here's the general rule from Rocketengineer: Tanks up to four foot long, all dimensional lumber = 2x4's. Tanks over four foot long, top frame of 2x6's, all the rest, 2x4's. In either case, no center brace needed. Here's his original plan:

Stand.JPG


Here is my frame for a five foot tank:

OurStand.jpg
 
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wickette

wickette

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Yeah, the cross braces .... At least for me.... Is mostly just twist, or torsion, prevention. Usually once skinned that isn't a huge issue especially if on a flat, level floor.
It is level, the 2x4s bottom frame was built for floor its going in, floor leans away from the walls, so the back of the stand is 1/8" lower. The stand is centered over the main beam of the house, floor is a bit lower over the beam, so I planed the edges of the stand until the middle touches the beam.

One a flat surface the stand will see-saw.
 

Marcom12

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75 and a reasonably heavy wood topper 2x3 borders with a 3/4" MDF/veneer covered top, ... like 40lbs+ extra weight. (but if my cats ever jump on the tank it wont be a blood bath)



The bottom half of the back will be covered with 18" strip of plywood.

The top of the stand will have a 1/2 plywood topper but glued not tacked.

The plan for now is to have thin plywood recessed inside gaps of the sides, held in by latex caulk, zero torsion resistance.

If anyone here thinks it will make a big difference I can skin it from the outside with ply and tacks, then add a trim. Its a lot more efforts and and extra $30 cost, dont want to do it that way if its fine as it.

Ideally, if its not fine as is, I rather keep the design as is and add some shelving brackets, or corner braces. But again, idk if the will do much against torsion.
If your tank and stand are level you shouldn't need to worry about torsion much. All your weight will be going straight down... You have built it enough where you should need to worry about warpage
 
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wickette

wickette

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These Rocketengineer designed stands are so over engineered that the comments about holding a truck are true.

Here's the general rule from Rocketengineer: Tanks up to four foot long, all dimensional lumber = 2x4's. Tanks over four foot long, top frame of 2x6's, all the rest, 2x4's. In either case, no center brace needed. Here's his original plan:

Stand.JPG


Here is my frame for a five foot tank:

OurStand.jpg
Ive seen these designs, but most people still add braces, often lots of braces. And they skin the outside with ply. Which prevents twisting more than the braces. So feeling uneasy about it.

if you ever reassembled ikea book shelves without the cardboard back panel....
6AWYPZIyw--ozGkCvoVhiXmu3dItHVngOIHcNdwkscg.jpg
 
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wickette

wickette

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If your tank and stand are level you shouldn't need to worry about torsion much. All your weight will be going straight down... You have built it enough where you should need to worry about warpage

With my saggy hard wood floor panels, it wont be level forever.

but fair enough. should be ok
 
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wickette

wickette

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With my saggy hard wood floor panels, it wont be level forever.

but fair enough. should be ok

EDIT; final question... with plywood, will wood glue be enough to prevent twisting? The frame is flat and level on top, plywood was to go over any imperfections or grooves Ive missed. If I nail down the plywood, the nail heads are going to add more pressure points than I have currently.
 

Marcom12

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With my saggy hard wood floor panels, it wont be level forever.

but fair enough. should be ok
Yes I think so... I have sponge floors and my tank wiggles front to back when people walk past it. But it's not in any jeapordy... Have had cheapo Petco stands before and they were fine... Mine is build off the diagram from rocketengineers design and it's solid
 

Marcom12

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EDIT; final question... with plywood, will wood glue be enough to prevent twisting? The frame is flat and level on top, plywood was to go over any imperfections or grooves Ive missed. If I nail down the plywood, the nail heads are going to add more pressure points than I have currently.
That I'm unsure of, but if your just gluing the top down I don't see an issue
 
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