any contractors?

[evanjah]

ok so heres the deal...I really want to upgrade to a big tank..I dont have a huge house though...i have the wife talked into building a bumpout to accomodate this...Heres my issue, I dont really want to have to get a slab poured. But i want a 240 gallon tank..So my issue is weight. now here is my other issue...first here is a pic of a bumpout i want to do..basically, but with some twists...

Now here is my other issue...The wife doesnt want to cover window wells and I also have heating exhaust vents coming out..So I wanted to build the bumpout so it didnt come all the way down to the ground..here is a pic of this

So I want to rip out middle window where my ac unit is and build the bumpout there...but as you can see i dont want to go down to the ground...Can i just put in posts with sonitubes and concrete them in..(big beefy posts). how many posts? can this even be done? is this the best way to do it?

 

[robert]

Not a contractor - but I did build my own house.

I am pretty sure you could build out a cantilevered extension to bear the weight, especially if you're willing to support with posts but that area is back-filled and will settle with that much weight unless you go very deep.
Also in your climate zone - plumbing in such an extension would be problematic due to freezing. \ can you plumb on an outside wall in green bay?
Last - where does you sump go? - It looks like you might have the air intake and low temp exhaust for a high efficiency furnace plumbed right below where you want to install.

 

[wysiwyg]

no you cant plumb on outside walls in wisconsin it is against building codes

 

[evanjah]

Yeah i would build the bumpout above those furnace lines.. on another note the codes probably dont apply to my fish tank plumbing..id just have to insulate the drain line and return to my sump which is right below that middle window..only like 3 feet would be exposed to outside wall...u think that would be a problem?

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[evanjah]

I was thinking at least 12 inches of insulation and maybe spray foaming the drain pipe and return line

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[evanjah]

I could poor a pad too but how does that work for weight and also so frost doesnt heave it

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[redfishbluefish]

You’re basically asking to do a bump-out to hold a 240 gallon tank…..in frigid Greenbay…..I would highly recommend you do not do this. The only access to the tank will be from the front. It will be a nightmare trying to get in and out of the tank. So don’t do it. Find the space in the house to do a fish room where you have access to the back of the tank. Otherwise, go small.


Now if you continue to insist, it would appear that the bump-out would not be even with the existing floor. Therefore a cantilevered floor is NOT an option. The cantilever joists need to run back into the building some distance….parallel and even with the existing joists. This option will also limit you to the current dimensions of the existing joists.

So here’s what I’d do: I would go to my local steelworks company and have them construct a steel “stand” that would have legs that would sit on footings. Also realize that any support structure that comes down to the ground requires footings. Here in NJ, they need to be 36 inches deep….not sure what the code would be in WI. Once this “stand” was in place, I would then build the enclosure around it. Again, that all being said, your access to the tank will stink and I think this bump-out will look like crap. And this doesn’t even take into account a confined area on an outside wall with water somehow going into a sump….maybe in the basement.



My bottom-line advise:
If the house doesn’t fit the tank, either get a smaller tank or a larger house!

 

[robert]

Now if you continue to insist, it would appear that the bump-out would not be even with the existing floor. Therefore a cantilevered floor is NOT an option. The cantilever joists need to run back into the building some distance….parallel and even with the existing joists. This option will also limit you to the current dimensions of the existing joists.!

I think the cantilevered floor is probably the best option. - depending on which way the joists run of course. The joists sit on top of the foundation wall which is above grade. If the tank were located (even if off-centered slightly) directly over the foundation wall, the foundation wall would take the full weight of the tank without posts or pads needing to be poured. This would mean the tank would extend into the room somewhat, but less than its full depth. and the external profile of the room would be less. This would also allow the sump to go below the tank avoiding runs to the basement on in external walls. To me - this would be the easiest - strongest - least difficult solution allowing somewhat better access to the tank - but more importantly solves most of the engineering/code issues.

I don't think a full room height extension need look like crap - properly sided with a little attention to detail particularly in the roof treatment - it could be made to integrate and enhance the outside garden space.

 

[Shawn D]

cantilever the bump out to a post sitting on a frost footing. Then plastic the botttom the plywood over that. Then spray foam the inside between the joist. That should cover your weight. Then you could do a heated floor mat over your subfloor under tile. Caulk all the corners and edges on the floor. This would hopefully keep things from freezing and if there was a spill less likely to cause any damage. JM2C. Good luck. Sound like a awesome build.