Any reason this 3D printed solution wouldn't solve the issues with a Herbie using no overflow box?

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Tank assembly begins in 2 days!!

I've decided to go with the Herbie overflow method, but my main problem is I don't have an overflow box. So if my return pump dies, I'm stuck with a solid ~20 gallons of water draining into my 15 gallon sump.

I see a problem with those numbers.

~`~

The three main issues I see running a Herbie with no overflow box are:

  • Increased potential to get livestock stuck in the strainer/drain, clogging it.
  • The 6" of water needed above the drain line to form a siphon is a lot of water in larger tanks. Draining all of that upon pump failure is no bueno.
  • Since the drain is so far below surface level, you don't really get any form of surface skimming.
~`~

The solution I have in my head is super simple. Please poke holes in the idea if you find them!

Essentially, it would be a 3D printed mini overflow box attached only to the drain line. The top of it would have teeth that only dip ~1" below the surface, which means good water movement up there to skim off any surface crud. It'd be a roughly 3"x3" cube with a hole in the bottom the perfectly fit over the 1" PVC, then sealed with silicone. The top would be open to air & the sides would have "skimmer teeth" at the top.

20200812_100216.jpg


Anyone have a reason for me that this wouldn't work? I'd love to know before finding out for myself ;Joyful
 

TheHarold

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Tank assembly begins in 2 days!!

I've decided to go with the Herbie overflow method, but my main problem is I don't have an overflow box. So if my return pump dies, I'm stuck with a solid ~20 gallons of water draining into my 15 gallon sump.

I see a problem with those numbers.

~`~

The three main issues I see running a Herbie with no overflow box are:

  • Increased potential to get livestock stuck in the strainer/drain, clogging it.
  • The 6" of water needed above the drain line to form a siphon is a lot of water in larger tanks. Draining all of that upon pump failure is no bueno.
  • Since the drain is so far below surface level, you don't really get any form of surface skimming.
~`~

The solution I have in my head is super simple. Please poke holes in the idea if you find them!

Essentially, it would be a 3D printed mini overflow box attached only to the drain line. The top of it would have teeth that only dip ~1" below the surface, which means good water movement up there to skim off any surface crud. It'd be a roughly 3"x3" cube with a hole in the bottom the perfectly fit over the 1" PVC, then sealed with silicone. The top would be open to air & the sides would have "skimmer teeth" at the top.

20200812_100216.jpg


Anyone have a reason for me that this wouldn't work? I'd love to know before finding out for myself ;Joyful

That totally works I believe.
My only concerns:

1. Ensure that the herbie drain is placed at a safe height, where the sump can tolerate the extra water if your printed components fail or leak a bit. I assume this is printed in PETG or ABS. Alternatively, you could use some epoxy on the inside to reinforce it and make cleaning easier w. a smooth surface.

2. Silicone-ing the entire printed assembly to your plumbing is too permanent for my liking. If I snapped a single overflow tooth when cleaning, it would bother me so much! You could be clever with the design and have the teeth removable for cleaning, where you can just put them in vinegar to remove buildup. Or you could use this feature (removable teeth) to later modify the teeth spacing, height, etc. Modularity! ;Woot
 
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That totally works I believe.
My only concerns:

1. Ensure that the herbie drain is placed at a safe height, where the sump can tolerate the extra water if your printed components fail or leak a bit. I assume this is printed in PETG or ABS. Alternatively, you could use some epoxy on the inside to reinforce it and make cleaning easier w. a smooth surface.

2. Silicone-ing the entire printed assembly to your plumbing is too permanent for my liking. If I snapped a single overflow tooth when cleaning, it would bother me so much! You could be clever with the design and have the teeth removable for cleaning, where you can just put them in vinegar to remove buildup. Or you could use this feature (removable teeth) to later modify the teeth spacing, height, etc. Modularity! ;Woot

Both great points, thanks!

For point #1, I'm really not sure yet what a "safe height" in a design like this would be. It's going to take some more math & tinkering & possibly some sort of sump overflow solution. My entire reason for making this is to lower my safe height, but if it were to fail somehow, I'm back to squareone.

On point #2, the way I envision it, I'm just going to have a ~3" piece of PVC attached to my elbow. It won't be glued, since any "leaks" would be inside the tank anyway. If I were to break the print, I'd just remove that section of PVC along with it. I do very much like the idea of modular teeth though. I may just make a cube the ends 1" below water level with slots/holes for mounting various teeth sizes & shapes.
 

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Make the box with an open front 1/2" shorter than the box & water level leaving 1/4' sides & 1/2" bottom.
Make a front with teeth & a groove to fit over the 1/4" ends & lower edge. This allows multiple variations you can just slide in to change them.
 
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Make the box with an open front 1/2" shorter than the box & water level leaving 1/4' sides & 1/2" bottom.
Make a front with teeth & a groove to fit over the 1/4" ends & lower edge. This allows multiple variations you can just slide in to change them.

I've tried reading this multiple times & I'm still not sure quite what you mean, could you expand on it a little?

Main thing that's confusing me is the part about 1/4" sides & 1/2" bottom.
 

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Picture an overflow box. Cut an opening in the front leaving 1/4" on each side.
Cut the bottom of that opening leaving enough material so the water level is above it.
There should be @ least 1/2" of material to the bottom of the box, more is most likely since it has to sit deep into the water.
The piece with the teeth should slide down the sides via 2 grooves in it over the bottom via another groove in it.
HTH
 
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Picture an overflow box. Cut an opening in the front leaving 1/4" on each side.
Cut the bottom of that opening leaving enough material so the water level is above it.
There should be @ least 1/2" of material to the bottom of the box, more is most likely since it has to sit deep into the water.
The piece with the teeth should slide down the sides via 2 grooves in it over the bottom via another groove in it.
HTH

Ahhh, I see what was tripping me up. Since this isn't a traditional overflow box, the teeth will be around all 4 sides, rather than just the front. This is the design I'm about to print to test (I'm about to add a "lid" first, to prevent anything from jumping in).

I also had the realization that since I'm printing it anyway, I can just forget the caulk & simply print that section of "PVC" as well, so it's guaranteed to be water tight :)
 
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Final (for now) design.

The bottom piece will slide into the PVC elbow coming from the bulkhead, the circular piece inside is the same size as a 1" PVC coupling. That was, I can just pop a piece of PVC in to adjust the height as needed & remove it for cleaning.

We'll see how it goes!

1597261186866.png
 

Snoopy 67

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If this is what you want then I would just go without the teeth.
You get Better Skimming with a simple straight edge.
You just have to set the height when running.
 
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If this is what you want then I would just go without the teeth.
You get Better Skimming with a simple straight edge.
You just have to set the height when running.

Ahhh, you're right of course. Where were you 3 hours ago when I started this print?

Just stopped it & am printing V2.0, toothless edition.
 

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