Sailingeric
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Made a half sized bat today, a Tonya Harding edition
Anyone enjoy woodworking?
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jsker
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Made a half sized bat today, a Tonya Harding edition
No response, but thank you for a good laugh this morning.
I miss my lathe, I enjoy making all kind of odd thinking when I had one. I am look for another one though.
dbl
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Finished adding the door storage and phase one is complete
Turned out awesome Jeffrey.
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Once again, thank you for your input and ideas in the design. I am going to start working on the dinning area china, glass, salt & pepper shaker collection and general storage area. I am trying to figure out how high to go up with the uppers? I have a high ceiling that is vaulted.
OP
OP
kschweer
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So when are you coming to NJ to build me some cabinets? Awesome work Jeffery!Finished adding the door storage and phase one is complete
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From what I have seen, you have the talent to build your own. I could come up and be your support team.:D
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Sounds like a party at Kevin's. I'll come up and be in charge of the beverage cart.
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Boom, you have a deal.
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I am in
Silver14SS
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Woodworking gurus, I need some advice please! I have doors on the side of my stand, 1/2" overlay with euro hinges. Now that I've added a couch next to the tank, I'd like to make one side door lift off instead of on a hinge. What's the best way to do this? I looked at various hinges, z cleats, but I'm not sure what the best way to do this is. It's getting pretty annoying having to move the couch to open the door :)
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The easiest way in my opinion...
Use the existing door so everything matches. Remove the hinges...they won't be needed. Apply a strip of wood (1"x2" or similar) at the bottom of the backside (interior) of the door. Install it so the strip of wood will rest on top of the door opening in the cabinet. So you'll need to measure where to install the strip of wood so the door will be even with the other door, assuming you have two doors. Then at the top of the opening, put a small cabinet magnet to keep the door in place. The weight of the door will be supported by the strip of wood not the magnet itself. The picture below is the type of magnet I'm referring to.
What you end up with is a removable panel made out of your existing door. Hopefully that makes sense.
If you look at my cabinet, every "door" you see is actually a removable panel not actually a door.
Use the existing door so everything matches. Remove the hinges...they won't be needed. Apply a strip of wood (1"x2" or similar) at the bottom of the backside (interior) of the door. Install it so the strip of wood will rest on top of the door opening in the cabinet. So you'll need to measure where to install the strip of wood so the door will be even with the other door, assuming you have two doors. Then at the top of the opening, put a small cabinet magnet to keep the door in place. The weight of the door will be supported by the strip of wood not the magnet itself. The picture below is the type of magnet I'm referring to.
What you end up with is a removable panel made out of your existing door. Hopefully that makes sense.
If you look at my cabinet, every "door" you see is actually a removable panel not actually a door.
Silver14SS
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The easiest way in my opinion...
Use the existing door so everything matches. Remove the hinges...they won't be needed. Apply a strip of wood (1"x2" or similar) at the bottom of the backside (interior) of the door. Install it so the strip of wood will rest on top of the door opening in the cabinet. So you'll need to measure where to install the strip of wood so the door will be even with the other door, assuming you have two doors. Then at the top of the opening, put a small cabinet magnet to keep the door in place. The weight of the door will be supported by the strip of wood not the magnet itself. The picture below is the type of magnet I'm referring to.
What you end up with is a removable panel made out of your existing door. Hopefully that makes sense.
If you look at my cabinet, every "door" you see is actually a removable panel not actually a door.
Makes sense and should be simple enough to execute. Thanks!
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I would suggest a French cleat link. by using a recessed rail inside the door frame or earth magnets these are very simple to install using a forester bit and hold very well.
Silver14SS
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The easiest way in my opinion...
Use the existing door so everything matches. Remove the hinges...they won't be needed. Apply a strip of wood (1"x2" or similar) at the bottom of the backside (interior) of the door. Install it so the strip of wood will rest on top of the door opening in the cabinet. So you'll need to measure where to install the strip of wood so the door will be even with the other door, assuming you have two doors. Then at the top of the opening, put a small cabinet magnet to keep the door in place. The weight of the door will be supported by the strip of wood not the magnet itself. The picture below is the type of magnet I'm referring to.
What you end up with is a removable panel made out of your existing door. Hopefully that makes sense.
If you look at my cabinet, every "door" you see is actually a removable panel not actually a door.
Got around to trying this today, worked like a charm. Lowe's had dark brown cabinet catches so it blends right in. I'll get around to staining the strip added to the door eventually...
dbl
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Love it when a plan comes together!!!
Grape_City_Reefer
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This was built about two years ago for our first saltwater tank, don't have a great full frame photo. We built the whole thing with a circular and miter saw, then we sanded, stained, and put 5 coats of poly.
Found a bandsaw for $30 at a garage sale and did a minor restoration. Its a very nice 3/4hp Rigid Bandsaw, weighs well over 200lbs.
It had a lot of rust and screws that refused to move.
So, I disassembled it to basic parts and put everything through evaporust and then heavily oiled/greased.
I so love evaporust. The upper part of the screw was covered with rust here.... and it comes out incredible after a quick pass of scotchbrite.
I used evaporust first on the table, but there was some pitting so I also used some 240 grit on the random orbit sander.
The belt guard was the only piece that needed repainting- it had lots of rust. sanded it back to bare metal an then sprayed on some old black enamel. (Thats my glue-up plywood)
Installed nicely
It works amazing! Totally smooth and vibration free. I also needed to buy new thrust bearings, a blade, and blade guides, which was another $30. But for $60, its quite the machine :)
It had a lot of rust and screws that refused to move.
So, I disassembled it to basic parts and put everything through evaporust and then heavily oiled/greased.
I so love evaporust. The upper part of the screw was covered with rust here.... and it comes out incredible after a quick pass of scotchbrite.
I used evaporust first on the table, but there was some pitting so I also used some 240 grit on the random orbit sander.
The belt guard was the only piece that needed repainting- it had lots of rust. sanded it back to bare metal an then sprayed on some old black enamel. (Thats my glue-up plywood)
Installed nicely
It works amazing! Totally smooth and vibration free. I also needed to buy new thrust bearings, a blade, and blade guides, which was another $30. But for $60, its quite the machine :)
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