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What’s a ‘lady tang’?Neil we gotta chill they only want to show pics of excellent tanks here. If you don’t like my science ignore it. If I can be sure you and lady tang are watching out for my syntax it’ll elevate me to write more better, I thank you for the heads up.
It doesn’t.I’m trying to understand why the color spectrum other people use bothers you all so much
You mean the threads where you suggest things that can quickly kill a tank if it isn’t done correctly, and then don’t offer advice on how to do it correctly?it pales in comparison to sandbed depth and or access threads. A distant third to quarantine/ no qt threads.
I just swapped out a t5 coral plus for a blue plus. Now I need to find more corals that actually pop under those lights.....most everything looks blue during my dawn/dusk.This thread is gonna drive me to throw a ge6500 bulb back in my t5 fixture. Thanks for the push. I miss the daylight look.
Nice tank!! I start the morning in blue for and hour then the whites come on around 9 am I run them all until 5 pm then just the blues for 2 hours . I have a more natural sun light look for most of the day and the coral glow look for three hours.Before LED's became the preferred lighting solution, you had two camps of reefers. Folks that preferred the white(6.5K,10K) look with some blue actinic at dawn dusk, and those that were in the 20K camp. 20K was popular with SPS keepers. I was a daylight look reefer, and preferred the appearance that mimicked what I would see snorkeling a shallow reef.
I used to run Iwasaki's back in the day, and eventually graduated to Ushio metal halides. Then I went to T5's and still focused on a whiter look during the day.
Now I'm 100% LED, and I find I run my whites much higher than the settings shared by others. I've downloaded settings to my AI Hydras that others promote on forums/facebook out of curiousity, and they are all very blue in spectrum. I feel like I'm out of touch. Whenever folks post full tank shots, they look like windex or a blacklight poster from some kid's dorm room. I recognize LED tanks are harder to photograph true to color and I'm sure these tanks are not that blue in person. Hell, my white tank looks more blue in photos than in person.
I'd love to hear from folks that still crank up the white LED's on their systems. Let's see some shallow water reefs with nice sunshine glimmer lines. Here's mine, and yes it looks bluer due to the iphone camera(no filter), but it's around a 12K spectrum on the AI Hydras. I'm tempted to crank up the whites further and get more towards a 10K spectrum. Anyone have issues with the white LED's set to 100%?
u are saying but when the lfs is selling corals under blue lights for the wow effect and the brighter the glow the more expensive by the way, naturally people are going to want their tanks to look like the store. I run my tank more naturally, so I need the full range of light colors to maintain the biodiversity in my tank.I'd like to share a conjecture of mine about the trend towards deep blue lighting and glowing corals. It's my thought that this has resulted in certain colors disappearing from LFS frag tanks, namely cyan corals. These corals don't really glow fun colors under 450nm and just kind of disappear in the blue. I haven't seen a cyan galaxea in years. Some basic brown, tan, and white corals (softies) are also harder to find. A very common cyan candy cane is now replaced by the bright green and a once common coral is much harder to find. It's not a major deal as all these weren't high demand even in the MH days, but it's a bit of a sad side effect.
Yes Sr. !! there are critters that will eat cyano and diatoms in your tank called fighting conch. i have two in my tank they keep the deep sand bed clean well along with the rest of my clean up crew.I have a theory related to that. Back in the iwasaki days, nobody really ever talked about Dino's. They were rare. I think our tanks were more nutrient rich then for sure, but I also think our tanks were more hospitable to green algae. Dino's, like Diatoms, were a pioneer species eventually to be succeeded by turf algae. I feel like blue windex tanks with zero nitrates get in the way of that succession.
The only way I've ever managed turf algae is through herbivores. It's better to battle an algae that critters like to eat versus one nobody touches. I haven't found any good consumers of Cyano/Dino's. I'll take the green stuff.
As far as my settings, I'll try to download them and upload the aip file. But my recommendation is to go into "manual" mode, set the blues and purple to 75% or more, then add in enough red/green/white till it looks good to you. Then have that be 8-9hrs and add some dawn dusk before and after. The dawn dusk periods can be the fun glow in the dark time... Similar to what we did with actinics.
I agree with what yo
u are saying but when the lfs is selling corals under blue lights for the wow effect and the brighter the glow the more expensive by the way, naturally people are going to want their tanks to look like the store. I run my tank more naturally, so I need the full range of light colors to maintain the biodiversity in my tank.
Hail to the critters!! If you think about it nature works that way. natural reefs look clean because of all the life that is there to clean them up.Totally agree. I've always run my tanks on the whiter side (almost 30 years now) because I prefer the look, using everything from VHO T8s to power compacts to T5s to LEDs. And as referred to by a previous response herbivores are underrated. The only time I've had a major algae outbreak was when my foxface got too big and I traded him in to my LFS for a smaller one, and during the couple weeks that it took to get a small one in stock all kinds of algae sprouted up. I had no idea how effective even that one fish was in keeping things under control. And after a few weeks the new guy had it all back in control.
‘You can’t get algae without food. The zero you are measuring is because the algae is consuming it.
Only way to tell is to stop excess feeding, making sure nothing hits the bottom and wait a couple weeks. Your corals are going to take a hit when the nutrients truly bottom out, then you can make them happy by dosing nitrate and phosphate or adding slightly more food. Takes a while to get the balance correct.
Algae can grow with low light if there are nutrients. They can’t grow with bright light if there are no nutrients. Go for the limiting factor.
Thanks- I appreciate it. I just last week tore things down to move to my new place, slightly larger area to work with so will incorporate things I planned for originally but couldn’t implement. A cryptic sponge tank being one of them- just need to get time to anchor a platform to the wall so I can have it elevated above the sump. 4x 550lb rated concrete anchors over a 24” spacing should hold a 29g just fine.‘
Just did look at your build thread and kudos to your success and work ethic. Quite an extensive growout system you have.
With a 25 year mature tank, I seek stability in natural food webs to feed sea apples, flame scallops and sponges. To that end I run a high nutrient system with a 75G tank with cryptic plenum on top and 30G mud/algae refugium on bottom.
In my systems, algae is not the enemy, in fact, for me there are three legs to biofiltration:
algae, bacteria and sponges.
PS: I should add that zooanthelia in coral is algae.
The ‘UV’ spectrum used in reef lights (400-430nm) is not the germicidal/ algacidal UV-C used in uv sterilizers, 220nm.Reef blue (430-475)is as far away from UVC as it is from red.got a buddy with an outdoor koi pond...asked him how he kept the water so clear (as in not green)...said the secret was a uv sterilizer...so it stands to reason if uv kills algae running your lights on that end of the spectrum certainly wouldnt promote algae growth....personally i like the stuff to look like it does when snorkeling on a shallow reef...the flourescence is cool but it reminds me of a 70's dorm room or a strip club...hmmm...maybe i need a pole and a naked barbie in a mask and fins as tank decor....