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So I did look into chloramines couple months ago. I went on to my local fourm I’m from Chicago. And was given a link to Chicago city water analysis website and my area and all around it does not use chloramines at all.I have a thought.... are you filtering out chloramines? I live in DC and found out the hard way that twice a year the city uses chloramine to flush the tap water lines in place of chlorine to kill all the bacteria that the chlorine doesn’t get. My RODI filter didn’t have a great carbon block and these chloramines tore right through it. The water still showed up as zero TDS and this didn’t show up on an IPC test. Lost a few acros and took me a moment to figure out what was going on.
Seems my mushrooms and toadstools and leatherS do fine. But these are the corals I’m least interested in so I need to figure something outEverybody loves a mixed reef, but they're considerably more challenging than a more focused tank. Some corals can be just difficult in a particular tank (I've always had a problem keeping Zoas in my tank, so I don't buy those anymore). Maybe decide what corals seem to do the best in your tank and build on that (SPS, LPS, softies, etc...)?
Ok for the tin I’m not super worried about it will send another icp out in few weeks to re-evaluate.Just want to say that I wouldn't go crazy looking for source of tin (unless it goes higher on your next test). 6.4 shouldn't bother anything.
Did you say your PAR is only 40? That seems really low. Just wondering if your main problem is simply not enough light.
Yes both no3 and po4 both keep dropping so I’ve been feeding More and dosing Nitrates to keep them up. I also took my skimmer cup off and lowered time on algae scrubber and refuegium lights to help to removing them to keep them up.Is your PO4 still bouncing around a bit like you mentioned in one of your other threads?
What's your fish load?
I think you were on to something with the nutrient imbalance but unfortunately I have not experienced that kind of thing being fixed and then corals bouncing back quick.
It was like 6-9mo total for me last yr after I started getting it fixed, specifically with PO4.
I'd say you had a die off that boosted your PO4 when the tank mishap occured. And the rocked bound a bunch if it up. Or the rock reached a long term saturation point.
I'd guess PO4 began leaching back out into the water which caused that param to bounce around like you saw/see.
Nitrate dosing helped but until the leaching is over it's likely to see saw back and forth and your corals will hate the variability.
It looks like you were getting really good production out if your scrubber so you have nutrients and the corals aren't starving.
If you're worried about trace and warfare get a $40 box of IO, do several large water changes (30% or greater, 100% total within a WK) and move on from that concern IMO.
That will also help to some degree with PO4
What do you think about the aluminum in my tank. That’s in the Pollutant category yet nobody mentioned it.High levels of TIN in my tank
Some of the SPS losses could just be because it's a brand new tank. The lack of stability of a new system can have a negative effect on SPS. I have high tin on my last Triton (I got results yesterday). My SPS, are fine. Great polyp extension, good color, growing. My tin is 7.341 µg/l, I...www.reef2reef.com
def look into it, but also may prove to be a combination of factors
I have a bunch of marinepure cubes from algae barn and I thought I read something about them leaching aluminum or some type of metals. Just wondering thanksSUE - Contents
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12.87 ugl Aluminium converts to 0.01287mg/l or 0.01287ppm, 12.87 ug/l is actually a ppb reading, looking at the attached chart we can see that the normal analysis for Aluminium content in seawater is 1.9 ppm, in which case your reading as per your ICP analysis is well under the normal range.
to convert ug/L to ppm simply divide by 1000.
Honestly, I personally think these parameters are 100% okay for anything. Plenty of people keep higher Po4 and No3, but nothing wrong with were are you at with them. I'd try to keep them rock solid at this spot, slowly increase your lighting, and add a small amount of carbon 1/4 recommend maybe 1/8 and just change it weekly to hopefully just help pull any toxins/prevent build up.Tested Parameters again last night as follows
Po3 12
Po4 .06
Alk 8.4
Cal 446
Mag 1360
Ph 8.3
Temp 78
Orp 280
Salinity 1.026
Using 2 g5 x30 pro set to brs modified ab+ at 12% is about 40 par at sand
Recently removed skimmer cup and turned down light time on algae scrubber and refugium to help keep po3 po4 from hitting 0
Recently stopped using carbon. Been using it for years did not notice a Difference
For the longest time I thought this was a Nutrient imbalance. Between phosphate, nitrate, Alk, and light intensity. So I have been all over the board. For few months ran alk at 7.7 or so and same issue. Noticed other night after changing carbon in reactor that everything seemed very very mad so I end up removing all carbon. For months I was testing .10 phos and 0 nitrates I’m thinking that’s got to be it. So I start to dose nitrates. I get nitrates up to 12-25 range with nyos tester and then phosphates drop to .03 so I start to feed more but it does not raise. So 3 days ago I removed my skimmer cup and turned down amount of time algae scrubber and refugium light is on by couple hours each. Now phos at .08 and nitrates at 12-25
Another question - what is the TDS of your RODI - does your community use chloramine (here they might use it once in a month if there is a problem - but not 'usually') - have they done anything different with regards to chlorine or chloramine lately? Neither will be 'seen' on an ICP test mainly because the 'chloride. very high in seawater' and 'chlorine much lower' will both be measured as 'chlorine'I found it strange that my Rodi water tested high in zinc everything else was 0. But zinc is normal in tank water so who knows.
I will look into it even tho it does not sound like it’s gunna be any fun
Im not sure you can actually say this for sure. Nor can you say carbon will remove it (or harm things). It all depends on concentration of the chemicals involved - where they are released, the flow in the tank, etc. If corals are crowded together - and releasing chemicals (or sweepers) - if there is not enough flow - there could be problems - even with a skimmer IME. If the skimmer is not working 'well' or is too small for the tank - it may not be enough. Did the OP say anywhere the size of the tank, what he uses for flow, etc?And the skimmer will remove it.