Sounds like a plan. Thanks guys!If the FW dip shows flukes, then I would run carbon to pull any residuals from the ABX out and dose Prazipro.
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Sounds like a plan. Thanks guys!If the FW dip shows flukes, then I would run carbon to pull any residuals from the ABX out and dose Prazipro.
I was kind of thinking that too since they fell off instantly and wasn't spasiming. Do you think the heavy breathing in one gill and not breathing with the other is more likely due to the .2ppm ammonia or possibly from the previous ich infestation? I did a 50% WC and put carbon back in.@Instigate I think that’s just a scale. Monogeneans (flukes) turn solid white once exposed to freshwater.
The plan was to do the prazi while doing copper but never got that far. What size tank do you think would be best for that? I have several 10 gallons, a 20 long and a 4' 60 gallon. I could try to craigslist something else. I'm thinking a couple 29 or 40 gallons tanks would be ideal for QT of this fish.@Instigate The 0.2ppm ammonia is the most likely explanation for the heavy breathing.
I personally would run him thru TTM if you are worried about ich: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/
If you haven’t already dewormed, you can use Prazipro in conjunction with TTM.
The plan was to do the prazi while doing copper but never got that far. What size tank do you think would be best for that? I have several 10 gallons, a 20 long and a 4' 60 gallon. I could try to craigslist something else. I'm thinking a couple 29 or 40 gallons tanks would be ideal for QT of this fish.
@Humblefish I ended up getting a 40 breeder today from craigslist. So I guess I'll be doing the TTM with that and a 20 long.For TTM, I would use a couple of 10 gals + dedicated equipment for each tank.
But if you were wanting to do hypo or copper I would probably use either a 20L or 29 gal. Same footprint, but the 29 gives you more water volume to protect against ammonia creeping up.
Would you bother with prazi after doing a FW dip and finding no flukes?
Friday night is the end of treatment with Triple Sulfa, if the fin rot is completely gone I would move on to TTM but if there is still some lingering what would you recommend then? Would it be feasible to do another antibiotic treatment while doing the TTM? Or would the stress of the TTM be detrimental to the healing of the fin rot? It's just about gone on the pelvic fins but I still see it on the dorsal fin, so I'm worried it's not going to be 100% cleared up by Friday.
Dosed. I'll do whatever I am able to keep this guy alive. Thanks again, your guidance is invaluable.I would treat with kana/metro/furan for 10-14 days. Unfortunately, you’re in this for the long haul now.
How would the trifecta dosing change if I wanted to do daily large water changes? Like 50-75%. The way this fish makes a mess I have to do daily water changes to keep the water quality up. If I do a 50% WC then I should re-dose a 1/2 dose of each med? What if it's not a dose day for metro/kana?
Will do. Thanks!If doing more frequent water changes, still stick to the normal dosing regimen. Antibiotics don’t remain active in the water for long anyway, but the last thing you want to do is risk overdosing.