Bactetial Infection in Corals

downonthereef

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Hello,

I'm a UK Reefer so amoxicillib etc isn't as easy to obtain here, so one way of battling what I'm going through, will be to set up a new tank (old tank), which I will put the healthy corals in or will this bacterial infection still take hold in this new tank? I've had almost all of my euphyllia bail their polyps over the last few weeks, no necrosis or anything just bailed polyps, the water quality is fine so it has to be either something I can't see, a contaminate or a bacterial infection. My fish are okay, eating fine, zoas and mushrooms are happy but my toadstool Is lay on it's side (polyps extended) just wondering if this is a good route to take or if it'll just spread in this tank aswell?
 
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downonthereef

downonthereef

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Are you seeing signs of brown jelly disease?
What exactly are your parameters?
How old is the tank?
There is no necrosis, or slime/jelly, just full polyps bailing. Phosphates were unreadable, nitrate between 5 - 10, calcium 460-480, dkh 8, ph 8, salinity 35ppt, 26 degrees.
 
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downonthereef

downonthereef

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There is no necrosis, or slime/jelly, just full polyps bailing. Phosphates were unreadable, nitrate between 5 - 10, calcium 460-480, dkh 8, ph 8, salinity 35ppt, 26 degrees.
Tank is coming up to a year, some of these torches were in my old tank, a nano that had high salintiy swings and got neglected for months, and they survived that? Yet now they're bailing one by one?
 

NeonRabbit221B

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Tank is coming up to a year, some of these torches were in my old tank, a nano that had high salintiy swings and got neglected for months, and they survived that? Yet now they're bailing one by one?
Going through something similar which I have linked to two issues. Excess trace elements from dosing phytoplankton and/or elevated phosphates (.25 ppm). ICP can help a great deal in seeing if something is off. Phosphates being "unreadable" leads me to believe you are not using a Hanna. What test kit are you using?
 
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downonthereef

downonthereef

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Going through something similar which I have linked to two issues. Excess trace elements from dosing phytoplankton and/or elevated phosphates (.25 ppm). ICP can help a great deal in seeing if something is off. Phosphates being "unreadable" leads me to believe you are not using a Hanna. What test kit are you using?
Just an API test for the quick water test I did, I normally don't test as I do water changes frequently and just read my corals. I think API reads anything above .25ppm

I do have a hanna checker, i'll give that a quick go
 
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downonthereef

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Going through something similar which I have linked to two issues. Excess trace elements from dosing phytoplankton and/or elevated phosphates (.25 ppm). ICP can help a great deal in seeing if something is off. Phosphates being "unreadable" leads me to believe you are not using a Hanna. What test kit are you using?
Really, i'm just looking for an answer as to weather or not setting up a new tank will prevent loss of more corals until I can get to the bottom of this or if they are "infected" they will just carry it across, it's just i've ordered a shipment to come next week, it's been on order for about a month now and I don't want those new torches ended up with the same fate.
 

Lps_enjoyer9000

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I had a 90 gallon tank with a black box led, and that tank had frogspawn, Duncan, zoanthid, and others. Everything was going well until I went on a 1 month vacation, leaving an auto feeder and a family member for supervision. during that time one of my tangs died and nobody realized (not super knowledgeable of what to do during a tank incident). The tang completely decomposed leaving nothing but bone (I thought it jumped because bones were burried by goby/stuck to the bottom of my power head) , and during the next 2 weeks the corals suffered and cyano bacteria grew like crazy. I noticed that my Duncan had a tiny brown spot on the base and I thought nothing of it, the next day it covered half of the coral. Regardless of my efforts, water change and several coral dips a day it continued to grow, it only took 2 days to completely engulf the entire Duncan killing it almost instantly. Unfortunate tank crash, I hope your case is not as severe as mine was.
 
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downonthereef

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I had a 90 gallon tank with a black box led, and that tank had frogspawn, Duncan, zoanthid, and others. Everything was going well until I went on a 1 month vacation, leaving an auto feeder and a family member for supervision. during that time one of my tangs died and nobody realized (not super knowledgeable of what to do during a tank incident). The tang completely decomposed leaving nothing but bone (I thought it jumped because bones were burried by goby/stuck to the bottom of my power head) , and during the next 2 weeks the corals suffered and cyano bacteria grew like crazy. I noticed that my Duncan had a tiny brown spot on the base and I thought nothing of it, the next day it covered half of the coral. Regardless of my efforts, water change and several coral dips a day it continued to grow, it only took 2 days to completely engulf the entire Duncan killing it almost instantly. Unfortunate tank crash, I hope your case is not as severe as mine was.
That sounds awful, everything seems okay, all fish are accounted for, I had a few hermits die when I added them but other than that it just seems to be my torch corals. Zoanthids, mushroom, toadstools they're all fine it just seems to be my euphyllia
 

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Really, i'm just looking for an answer as to weather or not setting up a new tank will prevent loss of more corals until I can get to the bottom of this or if they are "infected" they will just carry it across, it's just i've ordered a shipment to come next week, it's been on order for about a month now and I don't want those new torches ended up with the same fate.
If it is some sort of infection and you move anything at all from the old tank then yes it will carry over to the new tank.

I think part of the problem is other hobbyist are trying to help you solve it but you contradict yourself and don't answer their questions to help understand what could be causing it. One posts says the torch head disintegrated but then you say bailing out whole, water quality is fine but phosphate is undetectable. That's not fine.

You have a Hanna checker for phosphate? but you don't use it? API tests are known to be terrible and way off. But yet your water quality is fine based on API tests? You need some decent test kits, Salifert are good and inexpensive. For stony corals test at minimum Alk, Ca, Mg, NO3 and PO4 and of course salinity.
What kind of lighting are you using? I don't recall you mentioning what type and intensity.

And.. post photos! They help alot
 
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