Basic DIY Stand Calculator

[Freenow54]

If the tank has a rim on the bottom you dont want anything too thick as a mat. Technically no mat but you could use something thin something less than 3/8" just to help with any irregularities in the wood surface. I would put plywood on top of the stand, it will help to pull the stand together and help protect from sheering 3/4" screwed and glued to the stand. 12mm glass sounds a bit thin for that length of tank but I am not a tank builder.

I thought of another thing . Composite pads are made for putting ACs on instead of concrete pads , As well as for Whole house Generators . Seems like a good idea . Not pretty but I agree with above . Regardless of tank I don't like the idea of soft pads the tank weighs hundreds of pounds and will just compress it and not really solve the real problem . I prefer to build the stand in place and make sure its level during the entire process. If you don't like the water level being slightly off which to me does not create measurable sheer pressure . Then a water level is infallible and exact.

 

[Fearrchair]

If the tank has a rim on the bottom you dont want anything too thick as a mat. Technically no mat but you could use something thin something less than 3/8" just to help with any irregularities in the wood surface. I would put plywood on top of the stand, it will help to pull the stand together and help protect from sheering 3/4" screwed and glued to the stand. 12mm glass sounds a bit thin for that length of tank but I am not a tank builder.

Thanks, 12mm is the limit I think I had another builder say the recommended was 15mm. I think I read somewhere that the height of the tank comes into it so if I was asking for a 32" tank over a 24" then it probably would have to be 15mm. The width is 32" on it. The words used to me were 12mm top and bottom float glass braced. So maybe hes able to add strenght to it that way etc.

I will put a sheet of plywood on top, will add to strenght and spread the load too, and a thin aquarium mat just to cover any little uneven surfaces or a very small stone etc

 

[twentyleagues]

Yeah the glass bracing makes sense. Most tanks I have are 4 or 6'L and 24" or less H and all are 1/2" glass anything longer/taller than that I would be very worried.

 

[RocketEngineer]

Keep in mind access. My arms can barely reach the bottom in a 24” tank, let alone the bottom 32” back. At that point I’d have all sorts of parts in the water. While I enjoy swimming, I’d rather not do it in my aquarium in my living room.

 

[Fearrchair]

Keep in mind access. My arms can barely reach the bottom in a 24” tank, let alone the bottom 32” back. At that point I’d have all sorts of parts in the water. While I enjoy swimming, I’d rather not do it in my aquarium in my living room.

Yeah thats true, could be a panic situation if one staggered with the fish, the tank or yourself.

I suppose I am going big to reach a max limit in my head. I could have more sense and step back a bit, than having a huge aquarium taking over a good area. Even a 500 litre is probably big enough for most houses.

Can be hard enough to catch some fish, with that depth and size, the fish would probably be laughing at me and feel there in the ocean, as the lad in Jaws said years ago "we need a bigger boat"...


Everything gets more expensive the bigger you go, filters, heaters etc.

 

[Fearrchair]

you could marry the two smaller ones ie make 2 2by 6 into 4 by 6 , or another idea is to make angled braces from horizontal top brace to vertical brace. The closer to a 45 % angle the better. Odd you don't have 2 x 8 there but anyway an idea

On this I have been reading is the recommended way to glue the 2X6 together, could they be screwed.
They say planed wood is better, I have seen some clips where the timber seems rough. I do see for sale rough timber in 9X2. I think 8X2 are used for scaffolding boards as well but that would be rough too.

eg. 225MM X 44MM ROUGH TIMBER C16 EN14081 (9 X 2)​

Would that be a bad idea to have it rough. Would it be even enought should be close and if I had a plywood sheet over it that should help.

Well if I closed it up, on the front it could cover it as well.... If all the rest were planned etc, but it would be the must visible. I could attached a border around the bottom of the tank, possibly not for 9" tho, or somthing to match a canopy if I made one up. (lots of ideas in Pinerest !) or hang panels off it to the ground. See some have a quick lifting panel hanging on a bevelled edge.

 

[Freenow54]

On this I have been reading is the recommended way to glue the 2X6 together, could they be screwed.
They say planed wood is better, I have seen some clips where the timber seems rough. I do see for sale rough timber in 9X2. I think 8X2 are used for scaffolding boards as well but that would be rough too.

eg. 225MM X 44MM ROUGH TIMBER C16 EN14081 (9 X 2)​

Would that be a bad idea to have it rough. Would it be even enought should be close and if I had a plywood sheet over it that should help.

Well if I closed it up, on the front it could cover it as well.... If all the rest were planned etc, but it would be the must visible. I could attached a border around the bottom of the tank, possibly not for 9" tho, or somthing to match a canopy if I made one up. (lots of ideas in Pinerest !) or hang panels off it to the ground. See some have a quick lifting panel hanging on a bevelled edge.

you sure have strange sizes. They do the same for building homes specifically for the first floor. They are only screwed. Gluing would be nice for sure I am not sure what you mean by rough but if its like raised grain tough to glue. By the way there are calculations to get all the info in building books its needed to figure out how far apart support posts have to be. Here we get spruce boards and they are not rough. If you cant get that nothing wrong with rough to my mind just stagger the screws , and swap from one side to the other. You don't have to over do it or get fancy to my mind but I am not a " structural " Engineer

 

[Freenow54]

a 2x 8 here measures about 1 1/2 by 7 1/2 because they do finish it but not really planed

 

[twentyleagues]

On this I have been reading is the recommended way to glue the 2X6 together, could they be screwed.
They say planed wood is better, I have seen some clips where the timber seems rough. I do see for sale rough timber in 9X2. I think 8X2 are used for scaffolding boards as well but that would be rough too.

eg. 225MM X 44MM ROUGH TIMBER C16 EN14081 (9 X 2)​

Would that be a bad idea to have it rough. Would it be even enought should be close and if I had a plywood sheet over it that should help.

Well if I closed it up, on the front it could cover it as well.... If all the rest were planned etc, but it would be the must visible. I could attached a border around the bottom of the tank, possibly not for 9" tho, or somthing to match a canopy if I made one up. (lots of ideas in Pinerest !) or hang panels off it to the ground. See some have a quick lifting panel hanging on a bevelled edge.

I am not a master carpenter or wood smith in any way so what I am going to say needs to have that taken in to account. Most wood here for building is smooth on the flats, is that planed? probably to some extent or at least cut flat. Its mostly flat. If the edges are raw uneven wood that will be an issue. Some irregularity in the wood surface isnt going to be catastrophic but raw edges will be. Maybe go to these places tell them what you are doing and see what they say or take some pics of the wood available and post here. Honestly I can go to a big box store and get wood pretty easy that will build a stand, I dont know what you have available there. I have always wanted to visit there not for wood purchasing though. I posted pics of a stand I made on the first page of this thread maybe take a look and see if your wood looks like mine does (umm that sounds weird).

 

[Freenow54]

Another approach is to use a 4x4 or what you have available for equivalent , use that for 4 vertical legs and screw your 2x two on the bottom one inside one out side same on top 2x6 is lots as far as I am concerned that wat you can add plywood for the inside for your sump ect and use out side for a frame for doors or a one piece insert for a decretive skin. My skin is rough Osage Orange with oil. I put a plexi Glass covering in sump area makes it easier to clean the salt precip / creep you will get . I also had some oil based paint you can use urethane . Just use logic don't make it complicated . I had no drawn plan . Believe me its overkill the forces at play are every direction but up a simple tank holds it back on horizontal forces what ever that works out to be. You are only dealing with a spread out downward force a 3/4 inch piece of plywood in the bottom is good for a sump , and same on the top. I still maintain the angled supports are important for deflection

to paint the wood to keep it from being impregnated with salt

 

[Fearrchair]

Hi all,

I was talking to my brother who's an Engineer and he worried me a small bit...

See below for example not mine.

If a tank was 720litre 79" x 24" x 24" the internet tells me that's 830kg freshwater.

I have a cherry wooden floor onto a concrete slab.

He was saying would l not need to put panels under the vertical feet would the floor not have a lot of pressure at each point, even If l had a sheet of plywood spreding the load a little.

 

[Freenow54]

He is the engineer I am not. I always approached my stand builds with A picture in my head. You have to " see " the invisible force lines spread .I worked in Construction and dealt with dozens of Engineers. Most could only see 2 dimensional because that is how they learned. You knew you had a good one when they could picture things from a drawing in 3D. Your Brother is obviously a GOOD ONE The main force is gravity which is straight down. Yes its spread out but you cant completely defeat it. So the weight on the edges is minimal. I would add another brace at the bottom ends on the inside . Unless you have different plans for the plate to hold the sump. The plate also when screwed in pr5operly helps stop the side to side sway if bumped. I hope you see that you created a lot of cutting and fitting to get the plate in if you do one piece. I still would add top angled braces 45 degree preferable but probably have to do les for access to the Sump. It spreads the load better and goes miles to stop side to side movement again if bumped . You only have a static load though . So to me more than enough and no worry. Right now you have no focused pressure on the edges if you put some thing under the corners you will . I think your weight calculation is a little high even taking into account its salt water which is slightly heavier but just a dopey point , and you have not mentioned a Sump yet . Just do yourself a favour and paint the bottom plywood with oil paint if you can get it or a quality Urethane to protect against salt water precipitation or creep . Also the plexi glass to me is a great addition. When you put your tank on leave a lot of room from the back of the Tank to the edge. Then go more .

 

[redfishbluefish]

I don't know how I missed the original post of this. First off, thanks for posting this information. I have copied and pasted your original first picture so many times I probably owe you royalties. Now I can just reference this thread. Thanks again. And yes, I'm a user from the original post on RC.....five foot 90 gallon tank.

 

[Freenow54]

Hi all,

I was talking to my brother who's an Engineer and he worried me a small bit...

See below for example not mine.

If a tank was 720litre 79" x 24" x 24" the internet tells me that's 830kg freshwater.

I have a cherry wooden floor onto a concrete slab.

He was saying would l not need to put panels under the vertical feet would the floor not have a lot of pressure at each point, even If l had a sheet of plywood spreding the load a little.

Just A side note . i finished my basement myself including wiring ( except the Panel ) floors ect. I did find out that I cannot mud drywall. Through my travels at work I went into a place that made furniture and sold trim. I saw a bundle of grade B Cherry full of the black knots which I love. I made a deal and they said ok but I would have to wait until they ran that profile. It was almost a year later and I was just ready for the trim ( working at night and weekends I did not say I was a pro but fussy. I picked up the trim and found that I did not have to touch it with sandpaper smooth as a babies face lol I finished it in oil. All my furniture is Cherry along with Shaker style cabinets for my sound system . I love Cherry bet your floor looks amazing . I did mine in commercial carpet one of the prices you have to pay for having 3 Children

 

[redfishbluefish]

Hi all,

I was talking to my brother who's an Engineer and he worried me a small bit...

See below for example not mine.

If a tank was 720litre 79" x 24" x 24" the internet tells me that's 830kg freshwater.

I have a cherry wooden floor onto a concrete slab.

He was saying would l not need to put panels under the vertical feet would the floor not have a lot of pressure at each point, even If l had a sheet of plywood spreding the load a little.

I'm no engineer, but I don't see how you have a point load if that is your stand. The load is transferred to the lower frame and distributed around that entire frame. Now if you had four little "feet" in each corner, I could see where you might have an issue. Am I missing something?

 

[twentyleagues]

Hi all,

I was talking to my brother who's an Engineer and he worried me a small bit...

See below for example not mine.

If a tank was 720litre 79" x 24" x 24" the internet tells me that's 830kg freshwater.

I have a cherry wooden floor onto a concrete slab.

He was saying would l not need to put panels under the vertical feet would the floor not have a lot of pressure at each point, even If l had a sheet of plywood spreding the load a little.

I see what you are asking. My honest answer is I dont know if the tank and stand will leave indents in the cherry wood floor or not. I had slightly smaller tanks on a wooden floor in my last house a 180g and a 125g for years no lasting wood marks, depressions or gouges, a little water damage from a few spills probably. They were on furniture grade plywood stands but you would think the ideas are the same for weight distribution. Yes in the pic of the stand you posted most of the weight transfer will be on the upright 2x4s but the load is spread out from the horizontal ones to some degree. I dont know the strength of cherry wood or its ability to resist compression. As for weight its easiest to get a ballpark of how much a tank weighs by figuring 10lbs/gallon this accounts for rock and sand to some degree, like I said ballpark not exact.

 

[Fearrchair]

Thanks everyone, I think hes picturing the legs like a kitchen table and talking to him outside his house last night I couldnt remember it any other way, that post i put up was on my mobile phone, I took that image off the internet. I havent started anything yet this lad has great ideas of how good he believes he is regards DIY lol just getting some tools now, mitre saw, jig saw, clamps and screws etc.

The one shown in redfishbluefish post has horizontal beams that are tied in to the outer vertical on the front and sides of each corner alright. I think he was wondering and imaging having to put a small square under the vertical post. I suppose making the posts out of thicker timber would help or is that really only benifit to horizontal spans and strenghts. Found a website the other day, the sagulator that was a good guild on timber strenghts.

 

[Fearrchair]

I think your weight calculation is a little high
Well I was basing it from this site.

The tank for the moment is just itself although I'm toying with the idea of a second tank on the bottom for a sump. For a start it would be a freshwater aquarium.

Have heard someone on a youtube video say you could be overfiltering at added expense as well. In my case I don't have large fish and am low stocked at present in a smaller 200litre. I have an Aquel 4500 hypermax canister that was originally purchased for a larger tank that fell throught that I have running and could use that for the moment. If I was to get a sump I would nearly go down the route of layers of foam and filter media and it would be nice to have the heaters and all the pipework (as this canister has 2 outputs and 2 inputs) in the sump

https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/TankWeight.php

 

[twentyleagues]

Thanks everyone, I think hes picturing the legs like a kitchen table and talking to him outside his house last night I couldnt remember it any other way, that post i put up was on my mobile phone, I took that image off the internet. I havent started anything yet this lad has great ideas of how good he believes he is regards DIY lol just getting some tools now, mitre saw, jig saw, clamps and screws etc.

The one shown in redfishbluefish post has horizontal beams that are tied in to the outer vertical on the front and sides of each corner alright. I think he was wondering and imaging having to put a small square under the vertical post. I suppose making the posts out of thicker timber would help or is that really only benifit to horizontal spans and strenghts. Found a website the other day, the sagulator that was a good guild on timber strenghts.

The only issue I see with the stand you posted (I know not yours) is there is not vertical support on the ends. This leaves only the screws doing the work, not great. Either build it like @redfishbluefish or share the vertical between the horizontals. I have done it both ways no issues. The tank size you are talking about I would use at least 2x6 for the horizontals I dont think 2x8 would be necessary but that wouldnt hurt either, I do tend to over build stuff like this though. My stacked 125gs stand supported 3 200lbs guys standing on the top doing "dance moves". I know not as much weight as a 125g full but I think if it were going to sheer it would have. 2x6 hor, 2x4 verts and 3/4" plywood for under the tanks and to add rigidity.

 

[twentyleagues]

I think your weight calculation is a little high
Well I was basing it from this site.

The tank for the moment is just itself although I'm toying with the idea of a second tank on the bottom for a sump. For a start it would be a freshwater aquarium.

Have heard someone on a youtube video say you could be overfiltering at added expense as well. In my case I don't have large fish and am low stocked at present in a smaller 200litre. I have an Aquel 4500 hypermax canister that was originally purchased for a larger tank that fell throught that I have running and could use that for the moment. If I was to get a sump I would nearly go down the route of layers of foam and filter media and it would be nice to have the heaters and all the pipework (as this canister has 2 outputs and 2 inputs) in the sump

https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/TankWeight.php

I would say weight calculation is pretty on target. My way puts it at 1960lbs or 889kg with tanks dimensions its a 196g 10x196= 1960lbs. No calculators needed lol.