Big E Rimless 80g Sps

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Big E

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Hi Justin,

If possible I like to just use a skimmer as my only export. Back when we had the bigger skimmers and the external types you could keep P04 and N03 in check with just that and nothing else.
I used a huge Deltec AP750 on my 160g system for a good ten years like this. It was rated for 500g.

Now a days the skimmers suck in comparison as they are all designed to fit nicely under a cabinent at the expense of performance. Right now I use an Aquamaxx Cs 3. It's rated for about 400 gallons and my system is 90g total. It's does well but I have had to run GFO full time or on occasion based on my fish population and feeding.

Over the years I've experimented with carbon dosing because GFO isn't my favorite option. I used vinegar only for two years and also tried Tropic Marins bacto balance for 2 years on my frag tank. The problems were still always the P04 would creep up.

I started to use an old homemade formula recently of MB7 and vinegar that SunnyX (he used vodka) made popular years ago. I wanted to add this as I have and still will experiment with carbon dosing as I like it as an option because I can control it per dosing amounts.
 

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Hi Justin,

If possible I like to just use a skimmer as my only export. Back when we had the bigger skimmers and the external types you could keep P04 and N03 in check with just that and nothing else.
I used a huge Deltec AP750 on my 160g system for a good ten years like this. It was rated for 500g.

Now a days the skimmers suck in comparison as they are all designed to fit nicely under a cabinent at the expense of performance. Right now I use an Aquamaxx Cs 3. It's rated for about 400 gallons and my system is 90g total. It's does well but I have had to run GFO full time or on occasion based on my fish population and feeding.

Over the years I've experimented with carbon dosing because GFO isn't my favorite option. I used vinegar only for two years and also tried Tropic Marins bacto balance for 2 years on my frag tank. The problems were still always the P04 would creep up.

I started to use an old homemade formula recently of MB7 and vinegar that SunnyX (he used vodka) made popular years ago. I wanted to add this as I have and still will experiment with carbon dosing as I like it as an option because I can control it per dosing amounts.
Thanks for your reply, its difficult to compare things now to many years ago. I have kept corals for over 25 years, but I must say although I do experiment to much which causes acros to stall colours are better now than they were. I could grow brown acros for fun under t8 and MH
Currently I am carbon dosing all be it 1ml a day plus reef actif and finally I think P04 is stable at 0.07 - 0.1 without GFO which like you I have not been able to do for many years.
 

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Hello Ed, when you are overdriving your T5 bulbs do you know at what percentage/wattage designed versus actual? I'm trying to decide on a new fixture and educating myself. Your colors and growth are spot on so figure you are doing things right. Thanks for any info.
 
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Hello Ed, when you are overdriving your T5 bulbs do you know at what percentage/wattage designed versus actual? I'm trying to decide on a new fixture and educating myself. Your colors and growth are spot on so figure you are doing things right. Thanks for any info.

I remember years ago some people said they are 80w per bulb vs 54w. I can't verify as I never have really measured it.
I guess someone could buy one of those cheap killowatt meters to get a number on that.

I have done par comparisons putting the par meter 1/4" from the bulb right in the center and consistently get over 1000 with the over driven bulb and 800 with the standard ballast.

With some corals I do think there's a difference in colors but I don't know if it's every coral that looks better. If you do decide to overdrive the bulbs you accept the fact that you will lose spectrum in 5-6 months and need to change them.

I liken over driving T5s to how the Radion bulbs in MH setups get overdriven to produce a brighter, more intense and crisper ice type light blue look.
 

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Just read from start to finish in 3 hours! Beautiful corals and a wealth of information, thank you so much
 
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Just read from start to finish in 3 hours! Beautiful corals and a wealth of information, thank you so much

That's great to hear, thanks!

Here's another recent growth comparison. I've been experimenting some over the last 3- 4 months and really liking the results.

Confetti 3 weeks apart

51133073811_41e1ac9ab9_c.jpg
 

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Wealth of information brother! Wow!

Read through all pages in 1 ssitting.Way better than alot of the "anecdotal" product pitches out there. Love the simplicity of it all and will be implementing ALOT of what I've learned into my own practices.
 

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BigE, I really like your approach to reefing, and the results obviously speak for themselves. Fantastic!

What is your opinion of the Aquablue Special?
 

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He is the real deal! I have seen his colonies in person and have bought multiple frags from Big E. All very hardy and doing well. :)
 
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BigE, I really like your approach to reefing, and the results obviously speak for themselves. Fantastic!

What is your opinion of the Aquablue Special?

Thanks, I prefer the Coral+ bulb. I used to use the AB special but when the Coral+ bulb came out it made a nice difference in colors compared to the AB.
He is the real deal! I have seen his colonies in person and have bought multiple frags from Big E. All very hardy and doing well. :)
Thanks, I appreciate your comments, glad hear they are doing well.

Extraordinary. Everything is gorgeous and super healthy. Love looking at your coral pictures over and over again. Always inspiring

Thanks, I feel the same way about your corals and pics.
 

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I would like to know if the colors of the polyps can be enhanced in any way, my tenuis do not look like they used to, except with the blue strips. Do you use a filter when you take the photos? I imagine it will be a professional camera, right?
 
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I would like to know if the colors of the polyps can be enhanced in any way, my tenuis do not look like they used to, except with the blue strips. Do you use a filter when you take the photos? I imagine it will be a professional camera, right?

No filters................I use a Cannon EOS Rebel T7i

A lot of those boutique tenuis show a lot of fake colors under heavy blue light. There are a handful that have great colors and they are mostly in the skin and growth tips. Polyps on many are brown and they cover all that intricate coralite color that you see in macro type photos. Get two feet away and you just see the polyps and body color.

If the polyps were nicely colored at one time in your tank under your lights look at your nutrients in your tank........high levels of N03 will brown out polyps. For example if the polyps were clear, orange, blue, ect. and have turned rusty or brown.

Slow growing acros won't have vibrant colors. So if you aren't getting good growth look for causes for why this is happening.
 

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That's great to hear, thanks!

Here's another recent growth comparison. I've been experimenting some over the last 3- 4 months and really liking the results.

Confetti 3 weeks apart

51133073811_41e1ac9ab9_c.jpg

So is the experimenting you're referring to with the MB7 combo? If so sounds like that is working better than other carbon sources? Or did you buy a Straton?
 

DBS Superleggera

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These are my ballpark targets--
P04- .03-.10ppm
N03- .5- 10ppm

Range between the two 50-200 to 1 nitrate to phosphate

I was curious, what are the benefits that you notice by using those ratios? Or are the ratios just where your coral seem to look the best for you?

Thank you
 
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So is the experimenting you're referring to with the MB7 combo? If so sounds like that is working better than other carbon sources? Or did you buy a Straton?

Yes, the MB7 combined with light carbon dosing(vinegar) has my display pristine and the corals are thriving and growing fast. I went with this for two reasons, the cleaner display visually as mentioned, and more importantly using the bacteria as a food source for the corals.

I still use the same T5 lighting, but I do have a Reefi Dual extreme that I plan to experiment with on a 40 breeder yet to be set up.
I was curious, what are the benefits that you notice by using those ratios? Or are the ratios just where your coral seem to look the best for you?

Thank you

I tend to do a full test of my parameters when my corals look their best and I have always been in that approx 100-1 ratio. I have also done my own data accumulation a few years back on thriving Acro systems that I'm impressed by and all were in the range I posted.
 

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I'm finding myself in an odd spot with corals and nutrients and am interested in your thoughts on my scenario.

If you suspect too little dissolved nutrients (pale, thin skinned, low/undetectable on tests) but also find yourself battling hair Algae & cyanobacteria (the reason I think they are low) do you think that a MB7 + carbon source combo could solve both issues by stripping dissolved nutrients more killing the algae while simultaneously feeding the corals without pushing things too much?
 
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I'm finding myself in an odd spot with corals and nutrients and am interested in your thoughts on my scenario.

If you suspect too little dissolved nutrients (pale, thin skinned, low/undetectable on tests) but also find yourself battling hair Algae & cyanobacteria (the reason I think they are low) do you think that a MB7 + carbon source combo could solve both issues by stripping dissolved nutrients more killing the algae while simultaneously feeding the corals without pushing things too much?

The carbon/bacteria dosing will compete with the algae & cyano but you also have to eliminate detritus within the rock. Use a turkey baster every evening to clean that up until no more is coming out.

You also have to have a good clean up crew to keep the algae mowed down. They eat it when it's short...........once the algae gets longer fronds it can catch detritus.

As long as you have a good flow through of nutrients you aren't going to starve corals. Think heavy in heavy out..........the nutrients readings are nothing more than what's left over, but it's not a good indicator of nutrient levels the corals need.

Mentioned this many times------

A tank with 3 fish vs one with 8 aren't the same even though they have the same nutrient test numbers.
 
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