Big E Rimless 80g Sps

[Tamberav]

I am excited for the changes!

 

[Susan Edwards]

great set up. Looking forward to seeing what you achieve. Do you sell frags?

 

[Big E]

great set up. Looking forward to seeing what you achieve. Do you sell frags?

Thanks, yes I do sell frags

 

[Seek&Reef]

Sorry, I missed this

My ballpark range---

P04- .03-.10--------if I stay under .20 I won't intervene
N03- 3.0- 10------ I've been in the 25 range and have left them alone.


I have been neglecting this thread for a while so it's due for an update. I have a handful of projects going on as I was getting bored with the same old tanks. I am currently moving to a 150g display so this is where it's at now. It's going to be more of a mixed reef.

I'm going through the process of what to put in this display. I don't want to jam it up like my old system so I'm going to have to make some tough decisions as I only want about 20 or so acros in it.

I had thinned out and moved out some colonies over the past year. I want to start out with small size colonies and frags. I will have goni, hammer, ricordia gardens, which I'm looking forward to. I already have most of these just figuring out how I want to aquascape. I also want to move my red malu into this system.

It's going to be a slow process but I want this to be an actual display without any ugly racks in the tank.

Still plan on running the same 50/50 bulb combo and 6 bulb sunpower for the 150 mixed reef? That is my exact setup and have been reading this thread trying to decide on bulb choices. This has been a phenomenal read. Very impressive sir, and thanks for answering so many peoples questions. No matter how repetitive some have been (including mine)

 

[Useful_Idiot]

I'd love to know your thoughts on the Reefi and its effect on sps. You've had it awhile now right?

 

[Gudhjem]

Just waded through this whole thread and loved it. You really have some beautiful corals Big E. Some of the best colors I've seen. Can't wait to see your new builds.

One question:
You mentioned a few times that you need to run GFO to control Phosphate, although you don't take action unless it's above about 0.20. I struggle to keep phosphate in check (I find nitrates easy to control with carbon dosing or biopellets if necessary). I really don't like using GFO though, since it tends to create variance in levels based on when it gets changed, and it runs the risk or bottoming out phosphate if you aren't careful, which means more testing.

Do you just change GFO 1x/month and that's that, or do you test regularly? have you considered dosing lanthanum or some other phosphate binder instead?

edit: I guess that's two questions.

 

[Big E]

Still plan on running the same 50/50 bulb combo and 6 bulb sunpower for the 150 mixed reef? That is my exact setup and have been reading this thread trying to decide on bulb choices. This has been a phenomenal read. Very impressive sir, and thanks for answering so many peoples questions. No matter how repetitive some have been (including mine)

I added 2 actinic bulbs over the last 21 months and have gotten colors on some acros to do better than they have before. I have always thought I needed more in 400-420nm.

Frag tank- 60g 24x48
Front to back-- Sunpower 6x48"
Blue+
Coral+
Actinic
Blue+
Coral+
Actinic

80g 24x48
I run the actinics 5 hours a day and they are on outside. I had to do it that way because I have one ballast running 4x48 bulbs over driven in the center.

So if you have 6-8 bulb fixtures have a couple of actinics in the mix. For a 4 bulb setup I still recommend 50/50 coral+, blue+

I moved this fixture to my 150g for now. I may change things up some but the plan is to use 48" bulbs and have my acros in the 48" width area and LPS on the ends getting less light.
If I need more light on the ends I'm just going to add a couple of 24" LED strip lights.

I want to keep this setup flexible as I may add/swap some 48" reef bars.

For coverage, cost and spectrum this is the best option for me right now.

If I had no prior lights and wanted T5 I would probably just buy the 60" 6 bulb Sunpower and plan to add two reef bars for bling. For about $900 you get all you need. The bulbs will need to be changed every 12-14 months.

Usually with black friday ATI offers 20% off on their fixtures and it only happens once a year so take advantage.

The other option is what I'm doing and get the LET fixtures new if you don't mind diy. This will save you about $3-400.

I'd love to know your thoughts on the Reefi and its effect on sps. You've had it awhile now right?

Not much info to give but I can tell you that as far as shimmer goes they are by far the closest to the MH look. I love the ambient look of these lights. Just like any puck style I wouldn't be happy unless I had two of these over a 40 breeder. Or even one duo and one uno would probably work.

My test was cut short as I had to take the 40b down to set up my new 150g in it's place. I was only able to see some montis and hammers in the 40b over a few months. I plan to re set it up and continue with my test in the near future with acros.

Just waded through this whole thread and loved it. You really have some beautiful corals Big E. Some of the best colors I've seen. Can't wait to see your new builds.

One question:
You mentioned a few times that you need to run GFO to control Phosphate, although you don't take action unless it's above about 0.20. I struggle to keep phosphate in check (I find nitrates easy to control with carbon dosing or biopellets if necessary). I really don't like using GFO though, since it tends to create variance in levels based on when it gets changed, and it runs the risk or bottoming out phosphate if you aren't careful, which means more testing.

Do you just change GFO 1x/month and that's that, or do you test regularly? have you considered dosing lanthanum or some other phosphate binder instead?

edit: I guess that's two questions.

Thanks!

People that complain about GFO don't know how to use it. I use 1/2 the recommended amount in a slow flow. There is never any up and down on the P04 because as the GFO slowly looses it potency over a month algae grows more to compensate. When you change out the GFO that happens in reverse order. There is no roller coaster effect.

If you have high P04 in the .30+ range and aren't running GFO you set up the same amount as above and run it 4-6 hours. This will knock down P04 to about .10-.15. Turn if off for 24 hours and then run it full time and it will knock you down to a steady state to the .03-.1 range I recommend.

This is for setups that have a populated tank with a good fish load and corals. If you don't have either of those you don't need any GFO and it's likely you have a skimmer that's too small.

The only drawback of GFO is it's messy and you have to keep changing and buying it, so I'm always looking for alternatives. I'm working with bacteria dosing to try to eliminate GFO currently.

I have no experience with Lanthium and won't use it as to me it's too risky on the what it can do to fish.

 

[mattzang]

I'm also starting a biotope tank centered around Butterflyfish. It will have corals in it.

So far it's been difficult finding a good source of fish, but here is two doing well so far. The vagabund prefers mysis and of course the collare likes something different.

Collare and Vagabund eathing by Big E 52, on Flickr

what corals and what butterflies is the plan? love the collare

i added a pearlscale a few months ago and it has gone nicely in my tank with mostly acros. no PE of course, but doesn't seem to bother the corals much

 

[Seek&Reef]

I added 2 actinic bulbs over the last 21 months and have gotten colors on some acros to do better than they have before. I have always thought I needed more in 400-420nm.

Frag tank- 60g 24x48
Front to back-- Sunpower 6x48"
Blue+
Coral+
Actinic
Blue+
Coral+
Actinic

80g 24x48
I run the actinics 5 hours a day and they are on outside. I had to do it that way because I have one ballast running 4x48 bulbs over driven in the center.

So if you have 6-8 bulb fixtures have a couple of actinics in the mix. For a 4 bulb setup I still recommend 50/50 coral+, blue+

I moved this fixture to my 150g for now. I may change things up some but the plan is to use 48" bulbs and have my acros in the 48" width area and LPS on the ends getting less light.
If I need more light on the ends I'm just going to add a couple of 24" LED strip lights.

I want to keep this setup flexible as I may add/swap some 48" reef bars.

For coverage, cost and spectrum this is the best option for me right now.

If I had no prior lights and wanted T5 I would probably just buy the 60" 6 bulb Sunpower and plan to add two reef bars for bling. For about $900 you get all you need. The bulbs will need to be changed every 12-14 months.

Usually with black friday ATI offers 20% off on their fixtures and it only happens once a year so take advantage.

The other option is what I'm doing and get the LET fixtures new if you don't mind diy. This will save you about $3-400.

Not much info to give but I can tell you that as far as shimmer goes they are by far the closest to the MH look. I love the ambient look of these lights. Just like any puck style I wouldn't be happy unless I had two of these over a 40 breeder. Or even one duo and one uno would probably work.

My test was cut short as I had to take the 40b down to set up my new 150g in it's place. I was only able to see some montis and hammers in the 40b over a few months. I plan to re set it up and continue with my test in the near future with acros.

Thanks!

People that complain about GFO don't know how to use it. I use 1/2 the recommended amount in a slow flow. There is never any up and down on the P04 because as the GFO slowly looses it potency over a month algae grows more to compensate. When you change out the GFO that happens in reverse order. There is no roller coaster effect.

If you have high P04 in the .30+ range and aren't running GFO you set up the same amount as above and run it 4-6 hours. This will knock down P04 to about .10-.15. Turn if off for 24 hours and then run it full time and it will knock you down to a steady state to the .03-.1 range I recommend.

This is for setups that have a populated tank with a good fish load and corals. If you don't have either of those you don't need any GFO and it's likely you have a skimmer that's too small.

The only drawback of GFO is it's messy and you have to keep changing and buying it, so I'm always looking for alternatives. I'm working with bacteria dosing to try to eliminate GFO currently.

I have no experience with Lanthium and won't use it as to me it's too risky on the what it can do to fish.

If you were to run the xho led strips on a mixed reef, would you still do 2 actinic, 2 blue+, and 2 coral+?

 

[Big E]

Yes, I wouldn't run the xhos more than 4-6 hours

 

[Big E]

what corals and what butterflies is the plan? love the collare

i added a pearlscale a few months ago and it has gone nicely in my tank with mostly acros. no PE of course, but doesn't seem to bother the corals much

I'm basically going to just experiment and see what the fish won't eat. There's a lot of misinformation out there about BF's and corals. Many of these species only eat specific types and leave the others alone. Some eat just sps, others only softies, ect.

The tank is going to be more of a biotope of a specific region in regards to the fish.

 

[ReefAddict16]

Hi Big E. I switched over to the ice cap 660 ballast on my 24” 4 bulb aquatic life t5 hybrid (2 C+, 2 B+) and took par readings with an Apogee MQ510 and I’m only receiving 250 micromole on the highest rock (6-7” below water line. T5’s are 2” above waterline).
What do you think is causing this low of par compared to your readings?

 

[Big E]

Your bulbs are not all packed together so you aren't going to get the same readings.

A par meter just gathers what hits it and spits out a measurement. If you are putting the meter in the dead space between the two bulb configurations it's going to be lower.

Or if you're measuring just under two of the bulbs it's obviously going to less than 4 bulbs all next to each other.

If that fixture had the two T5 banks angled slightly inward toward the middle you would also get a higher reading. Those Aq. life fixtures are mainly for spectrum blend and coverage.

People never seem to get this............using LED as the workhorse plus T5 on the outsides is not the same as a bank of T5s doing the bulk of the lighting and using two reef bars on the outside. You will also notice that people that add reef bars always have them angled inward.

 

[ReefAddict16]

Ok I honestly didn’t even notice that until now after actually looking at my readings. Two bulbs put out 300 par 8-10” directly under them.
How far would you say the par drops off near the front and back glass? I may try configuring them together.

 

[Big E]

I consider about 4" width wise for each bulb

Along the front glass there will be higher readings but no one is going to grow an acro near the front glass unless it's strictly a frag tank.

You aren't going to get any reflection from the back if you have a black background. If you have a peninsula tank then it will be better.

Just remember any time you add more light you aren't adding more par, just creating more coverage, so a par meter is going to show a higher reading as more light is hitting the sensor.

This is why par levels only need to be in the 250-400 range for most acros. If they have coverage from all angles that's all you need.

If you are actually creating more intensity than that is different.............for example in a bulb fixture that is dimmable. Or an led fixture that you are turning up the power.

 

[ReefAddict16]

I consider about 4" width wise for each bulb

Along the front glass there will be higher readings but no one is going to grow an acro near the front glass unless it's strictly a frag tank.

You aren't going to get any reflection from the back if you have a black background. If you have a peninsula tank then it will be better.

Just remember any time you add more light you aren't adding more par, just creating more coverage, so a par meter is going to show a higher reading as more light is hitting the sensor. In other words.

This is why par levels only need to be in the 250-400 range for most acros. If they have coverage from all angles that's all you need.

If you are actually creating more intensity than that is different.............for example in a bulb fixture that is dimmable. Or a led fixture that you are turning up the power.

Appreciate the help!

 

[InvaderJim]

I'm running a 6bulb sunpower over the same tank 48x24. How high do you recommend running it? I'm having a horrible time trying to keep acros.

 

[Big E]

6-8" from the water surface should get you 300-350 mid level of the tank. How tall is your tank?

I doubt it's the light that is causing your problems.

 

[InvaderJim]

The tank is 16” tall. It’s 48x24x16. I just didn’t know if there was a sweet spot

 

[Big E]

6-8" is a good sweet spot range. I'd go 8" and see how colors/growth respond.........this will give you better coverage.

If acros are shutting down or dying you need to look at other causes as I doubt it's the lights.