ScottB

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I have not verified which species I have. UV works on all species, just some better than others. I am also cleaning the rocks and sand, dosing Vibrant, adding Phytoplankton, changing socks every day, and doing my best to raise N03 and P04. I do think that dosing TM part C may be contributing to it. I need to ask BRS the question.
If TM Part C contains amino acids I would stop. Dinos can use those up faster than anybody.
 
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If TM Part C contains amino acids I would stop. Dinos can use those up faster than anybody.
It contains trace elements. Its almost like doing water changes without doing water changes.

 

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It contains trace elements. Its almost like doing water changes without doing water changes.

Ah. Right. Many people report that dinos are often reinvigorated by a water change as they can reduce traces and become limited. I believe there is a relationship but cannot say I have really tested the theory that much. Nor do I understand which trace elements become limiting. Potassium and Iodine were often low for me. I had ostreopsis a few times.
 
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Ah. Right. Many people report that dinos are often reinvigorated by a water change as they can reduce traces and become limited. I believe there is a relationship but cannot say I have really tested the theory that much. Nor do I understand which trace elements become limiting. Potassium and Iodine were often low for me. I had ostreopsis a few times.
Ironically, my Iodine and potassium are low as per the Triton test. I got some Triton Iodine, as was going to dose it, but held off. As off right now I am overfeeding my tank extremely heavily and dosing NeoNitro and NeoPhos to try to raise the N03 and P04. The UV is working, but not as I had hoped because the Dino type does not go into the water column at night. It will take several methods to beat the Dino's, its just a matter of which one's.
 
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OHHH...and I also stopped skimming. I still have my skimmer running to add oxygen to the tank, but, I pulled the plug on the collection cup and dump it right back into the tank.
 
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Its easy for me to say this now, as I am trying to raise the N03 and P04 on my tank, but, I will never limit it, at the expense of the fish in my tank. I will never starve my fish to keep my N03 and P04 down. You just have to find another way to lower it if needed. Skimming, Reactors, and Algae Scrubbers are a few things that come to mind. The point is, the fish should never suffer to keep the N03 and P04 down. ;) :)
 
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Full tank shot, if you zoom in your will see every fish I have, minus a few chromis.

20210808_190349.jpg
 
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I see LOTS of fish, LOTS of rock. Itsy bitsy coral......Something is wrong with this picture :p
Dealing with Dino's, thus, no corals. When I deal with the Dino's, I will be on full Frag hunt mode!!!

I do have some high end LPS on the left side though.

The tank is growing coraline algae, I just need to deal with the Dino's first.
 

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Took me a couple of days to get through the whole thread, but well worth it. Still just dipping my toes in the switch from fresh water (will still keep my cichlid tank). But in the beginnings stages of planning my first reef tank. The information in your build thread is an awesome reference me me. Thanks for the time you've put into updating this.
 
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I think I found the problem with my Neptune Apex ATK...AND...its the one thing Neptune brags about, LOL!!! They brag about having triple redundancy with the ATK, and yet, it was the 3rd redundancy that failed me and cost me a PMUP. For whatever reason, the float switch stopped flowing and it caused the PMUP to go bad as it deadheaded, aka blocked it. I noticed this because I was seeing my flow sensor drop and my ATO pump to stay on. I have seen this before and it usually means that my return pump section is low on water. I got home and guess what, it was low. I started to test the new PMUP that I installed a few days ago and it wasn't working. I thought, no ay can a brand new Neptune PMUP go bad. I disconnected the tubing from the ATK flow mount and turned it on, and guess what, it worked again...HMMM!!! I flushed out the flow mount and re-attached the tubing and it worked again. I will buy a Tunze 3155 again and get rid of the ATK as it is riddled with problems. I never had an issue with my Tunze.

AND FOR THE NEPTUNE FANBOYS...NO...the float switch was not closed.
 
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I never had an issue with my Tunze 3155 in the past, so I will either go with a GHL Maxi Doser or a Tunze 3155.

BRS was all about the Tunze 3155, I am curious as to what they say now...LOL!!!
 
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I just went thru several PM's with @SuncrestReef to figure out what is going on with my ATK. Many people think I have a bone to pick with Apex. The fact is I don't. If you read the first post of my Conversion thread, you will see that I said that I have had no major issues with the Apex, and NO failures with Apex, just some small one's.

I have been having issues with the Apex ATK as everyone knows. I had to replace the PMUP as it stopped working. I installed the new one and it picked right up and worked. A few days later, meaning today, I come home and hear my PMUP running even though the optic sensors on my ATK showed closed and the PMUP showed off. Suncrestreef, being a great R2R member, and controller advisor, looked at my Apex Config. and found a few issues. He found several duplicates which can cause issues and override what is actual in the programming. I made the changes and will let it sit for a few, and then test the FMM module again to see if it is still sending a 24vdc signal to the PMUP.

Either way, Thank you @SuncrestReef for helping out.
 
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I just ordered a Gryphon XL Band saw...LOL!!! I will need to shortly frag my BSA TaTa twister Blastos and I didn't feel safe doing it with a Dremel. I also need to frag my suffering TSA Black Panther torch, so the cost is worth the means. My TSA Black Widow blastos and WWC Rainbow Blastos are growing at a fast rate, and will likely need to be fragged as well. I have no issue spending the money to make sure the frags will survive.
 

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I just ordered a Gryphon XL Band saw...LOL!!! I will need to shortly frag my BSA TaTa twister Blastos and I didn't feel safe doing it with a Dremel. I also need to frag my suffering TSA Black Panther torch, so the cost is worth the means. My TSA Black Widow blastos and WWC Rainbow Blastos are growing at a fast rate, and will likely need to be fragged as well. I have no issue spending the money to make sure the frags will survive.
Oh so you can send them to me? Thank you Bill! I knew I liked you.
 
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I will also be switching to Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt mix. I love HW Marine Reefer mix, the parameters are exactly what I want, but the brown crude that is building in my mixing station is unexpectable. I can think of the annoyance of having carry out a 100 gal tank to clean it and rinse. So I decided to switch, though it will be in the future as I still have a few boxes left of the HW Marine. I will not say anything bad about HW Marine, it mixes quickly and has the exact parameters I want, but the simple fact that I will have to periodically have to remove my mixing tank is a pain.
 

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I will also be switching to Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt mix. I love HW Marine Reefer mix, the parameters are exactly what I want, but the brown crude that is building in my mixing station is unexpectable. I can think of the annoyance of having carry out a 100 gal tank to clean it and rinse. So I decided to switch, though it will be in the future as I still have a few boxes left of the HW Marine. I will not say anything bad about HW Marine, it mixes quickly and has the exact parameters I want, but the simple fact that I will have to periodically have to remove my mixing tank is a pain.

I use TM Pro and still use a sock in my mixing tank, here is after about 200 gallons of salt water-
3FFA3C25-5786-4339-B994-938DFC5752EF.jpeg
 
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I use TM Pro and still use a sock in my mixing tank, here is after about 200 gallons of salt water-
3FFA3C25-5786-4339-B994-938DFC5752EF.jpeg
Does your container turn brown after, roughly 6 months?

I currently have RO/DI water flowing thru my salt water mixing tank. I will have to at least scrub it, and possibly, remove it to clean the brown crude build up in it.
 

Reefing threads: Do you wear gear from reef brands?

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