Black sun coral

SeymourDuncan

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Nonphotosynthetic and very touchy: so far that is all I know.

I got a frag and of course I started it in the darkest cave in the tank..well that's hard to photograph so the pic isn't good lol.

The tank is a 90 and that is the only nps I have. I plan on doing to 2 liter bottle feeding method, so far its eaten everything I've thrown at it, at 3am.

My question here is flow: I heard they like a lot of flow. Does that mean alot alot?
 

Paul C.

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https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/general-lps-discussion/98496-sun-coral-dendro-colony.html

Theres a thread from 10/2012.. Great info on there, as well as some pics. I have a huge colony of Black sun coral. I was told, shade and little flow. My piece is center tank, about 6" off the sand on her rock, and loves the Radions. She is closed during the day, but as soon as the lights start dimming, she starts to open up. Like i said, center tank, in between opposing vortecs. A mp40 and Mp10 blowing on her. Gotta feed em every night. or every other.
 
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SeymourDuncan

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Ok cool, I'll try putting it in a slower area.
Funny how nocturnal it can be. I'm working on a feeding regime to trick it to be a day bloomer, worked with my brains lol. Every day i feed it a little later at night. I'm at 4am right now hoping to get it to at least be something to wake up and see.

There was some white on the base, are these easy to restore with good feedings? My water is just under pristine for the other Lps.

I'm reading the link in 3...2...1...thanks!!
 

KatyEnochs

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Yes the tissue will regrow if healthy. I have dendro arbuscula, dendro fistula, balanophylia, and tubastrea nps colonies, so you can pm me If you have specific questions. I personally feed out of the tank in a seperate container.


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SeymourDuncan

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My 90 is pretty deep, I am going to try doing the In tank 2 liter method at first so I don't have to get out my scuba gear lol. I have an overkill ATS on my tank so I can literally fill the tank with food if I want.

I have a timer set to go off at 4am and cloud the water with a mix of coral frenzy and thawed mysis or Rotifers while I sleep, last night I was up and saw it eat so that's a great sign.

As for hardiness and recovery, would you compare it to something like a Duncan coral? I had a fraggin accident with my Duncan once and it healed fast from a dremel to the face basically.

Also, for fragging these guys: after its fully acclimated and showing regeneration would it be ok to frag? Would fragging help it heal faster?

The environment of my tank makes for easy fraggin of my other stuff, never had infections and I use iodine to dip.

Sorry about 20 questions, I'm just wanting the best for this future beast.
 

KatyEnochs

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I would personally cut it now if you have exposed skeleton, cut through that. Just keep in mind that the tissue could be on the inside of the skeleton just not on the outside. The outside tissue tends to go first, and then the inside. So you would want to make sure that you cut low enough to not slice the tissue inside. A pic would help greatly to tell you if it's a good idea to frag or not.

The pop bottle does work well for a single colony
ImageUploadedByReef2Reef Aquarium Forum1363967150.229335.jpg



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bigkai

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Any one using the pop bottle feeding show some photos please so I can get an idea of how yall are doing it.

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SeymourDuncan

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1363978503.932178.jpg

Here it is under a flashlight.

And here is what I just moved it into while I figure out a good spot for him.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1363978590.255668.jpg


I put him on a vertical piece of egg crate pointing away from the light on the far side of the tank. I just fed him and it seemed to absorb the mysis but not open up much.
 

KatyEnochs

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Nope haha. The black ones are a branching tubastrea, much more similar to dendros in growth pattern. Here is a pic of my micro dendros which are a branching form
ImageUploadedByReef2Reef Aquarium Forum1363979381.790450.jpg


These were bought (or rather saved) Because they didn't have any tissue left on the skeleton, and I offered to take them and try to revive them.


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SeymourDuncan

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So do you keep yours submerged when pulling it out or do you let it hit the air?

Another question. The branches that have less flesh, would that affect their polyp extension? I know that my sea whip when growing or regrowing it will close its polyps until its where it wants to be although far from related. A better example would be like when my Duncan is sprouting heads it will close for a while as well.

As for healing: any special advice?

Would fragging it be more harm than good?
Should I do some iodine dips or just keep feeding it like a pig?
 

jedimasterben

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To clear a few things up - black suns are very different from yellow Tubastrea and other dendros. They like a much higher flow rate than any other, and require considerably more feeding to truly thrive. And you actually do not need to 'hide' them from the light. Some grow in the reef crest right alongside Acropora, so while they may seem like they are 'shy' when the lights are on, if they sense food in the water, they will open up no matter what time it is or what the lighting situation is, and if you feed around the clock, within a few weeks it should be 'trained' to be open nearly 24/7.
 

KatyEnochs

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To clear a few things up - black suns are very different from yellow Tubastrea and other dendros. They like a much higher flow rate than any other, and require considerably more feeding to truly thrive. And you actually do not need to 'hide' them from the light. Some grow in the reef crest right alongside Acropora, so while they may seem like they are 'shy' when the lights are on, if they sense food in the water, they will open up no matter what time it is or what the lighting situation is, and if you feed around the clock, within a few weeks it should be 'trained' to be open nearly 24/7.

I think the point is still that they are non photosynthetic, so they do not benefit from the light: it will not hurt them either.

They do need flow, as you mentioned, but they will not be happy put directly in front of a powerhead.

As for feeding, they do need a lot of food, but If most people put that in their tank they would pollute it in no time, hence me continually pushing the out of tank feeding method.


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KatyEnochs

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Seymourduncan- I will respond to the rest of your questions as soon as I'm not driving lol


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SeymourDuncan

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No problem! Thanks. I can see where there is Internal flesh. As for the out I tank feeding, I tend to over feed anyways, but my skimmer is massive and I have a turf scrubber that would eat a tuna. :) so feeding the tank a lot is not that bad and I have a long syringe to spot feed. The interest this coral had given me in nps had driven me to experimental devices such as this work in progress:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364003521.849463.jpg

Refrigerated air injected auto feeder, once it works ill do an illustrated build thread. If it doesn't I will tape the holes and use it like the instructions say. Lol.
 
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SeymourDuncan

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I should mention I am making an auto water change system as well, once the fridge works I will rush that. In the meantime its the good old fashion way
 

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