Brute Trash can Mixing station

Deezill

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Hello folks,
I have what I hope is a simple question. What am I to use for my mixing station Uniseals or Bulkheads? Also for a 1" inch connection what type of bit do I need for my drill?
Thanks much
 

jda

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I use bulkheads on Brutes - they flatten out enough. If you buy uniseals, get a few extras so that you can swap them out when they get hard and don't seal anymore.

Just get a cheap hole saw kit from Amazon or the like. Plastic is no issue to drill.
 

Zach B

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I used uniseals but it's seems either work if applied correctly. As long as your cut/hole is clean you should be good. Great advice above to get extras
 

Coxey81

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I used these on my brutes, they worked fine.

PVC Bulkhead Fitting Double Threaded Bulkhead Water Tank Connector for Rain Barrels, Aquariums, Water Tanks, Tubs, Pools, Spigot, Black, 3/4 Inch Male 1/2 Inch Female (4 Pieces)



For a drill bit get a hole saw drill bit the right size.
 

n2585722

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I used a Brute can for my mix tank and did not drill any holes in the can itself. All are in the lid only. The assembly photos below are of the DI storage tank but the holes are in the same places.

1A16153D-4C8B-4E4B-82E7-E70D39259FE9.jpeg


FB3C3E9D-DD1D-4EF2-81A7-C82221B7A4AC.jpeg


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8B1DCD6F-D0B1-4DE8-BF37-90114A3B1D45.jpeg


The tank on the left is the mix tank. I can roll it out to add the salt mix. once the water is ready I press a button and the controller will automatically transfer it to the center tank which is for fresh saltwater when it goes low. Once the water has been transferred the controller will automatically refill the mix tank with DI from the RODI. All I have to do is add the salt mix. The tank on the right is DI storage for ATO. Both the fresh salt water and DI tanks have pumps you can use to dispense either DI or fresh saltwater into containers at the tanks.

D22105C0-1D6F-4294-9AD6-AB1B4DFCB065.jpeg
 

n2585722

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I got some photos of the top of the mix tank and inside. As you can tell I use Reef Crystals as a salt mix. It is due for a cleanout.

2C468C57-FBEA-4305-ACE7-2120C0B4514E.jpeg


265CBE15-14CE-4CB0-80EE-84C9B6487B67.jpeg
 
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Deezill

Deezill

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wow the brown crud does not disturb anything I am guessing? Great photos. I don't think I have ever saw the brown magic Reef crystals leaves behind lol. Yes I am calling it brown magic.
 

n2585722

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It is easy enough to clean. I just need to remember and disable the refill on that tank and take it outside to clean it. Right now I don't have the water hoses hooked up outside. The faucet is also inaccessible since it is our cold months. Trying to keep them from freezing when it gets cold. I may hold off till March.
 

RaymondNoodles

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I got some photos of the top of the mix tank and inside. As you can tell I use Reef Crystals as a salt mix. It is due for a cleanout.

2C468C57-FBEA-4305-ACE7-2120C0B4514E.jpeg


265CBE15-14CE-4CB0-80EE-84C9B6487B67.jpeg
How difficult is it to clean the brown crud out of the brute cans, pumps, etc? Hose? Pressure washer? Scrub brush? I just started using RC. Haven't even done my first WC with it yet...

I am in the process of designing a mixing station and debating between brute trash cans or a more "professional" container such as these...

image.thumb.png.f8c3113bbcd675d19087e7a40da08eff.png

https://www.thecarycompany.com/20-gallon-white-hdpe-vertical-storage-tank-44846

Just a bit concerned about how difficult these would be to clean out.

Dimensions16" Dia. x 28" H

Manway / Lid8" Threaded Vented Manway

Not sure if I can justify the extra cost especially if they are more difficult to maintain. The 2 20 gallon brute cans with lids and bulkheads = $100 after tax. So these would be $230 more. They sure do look purdy tho. Curious to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
 

Sean Clark

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I like the Brute containers you can get different colors and they are relatively cheap.

Add one of these and you have a mobile station.
 

fdevans

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I also used Brutes. You can also find different sizes to fit your needs, which I learned a bit too late. I started with Uniseals, but one started leaking after just a few months. I replaced it with a bulkhead of the same size and it sealed right back up. Going forward I'll probably stick to bulkheads as they are easier to find locally and as others have said, the trashcans flex to flat as long as you aren't right on a seam or corner.

Mixing station Build thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/mixing-station-build-with-images-and-lessons-learned.870155/
 

n2585722

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How difficult is it to clean the brown crud out of the brute cans, pumps, etc? Hose? Pressure washer? Scrub brush? I just started using RC. Haven't even done my first WC with it yet...

I am in the process of designing a mixing station and debating between brute trash cans or a more "professional" container such as these...

image.thumb.png.f8c3113bbcd675d19087e7a40da08eff.png

https://www.thecarycompany.com/20-gallon-white-hdpe-vertical-storage-tank-44846

Just a bit concerned about how difficult these would be to clean out.

Dimensions16" Dia. x 28" H

Manway / Lid8" Threaded Vented Manway

Not sure if I can justify the extra cost especially if they are more difficult to maintain. The 2 20 gallon brute cans with lids and bulkheads = $100 after tax. So these would be $230 more. They sure do look purdy tho. Curious to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
They are not too hard to clean since I have no bulkheads in the sides of the container. All of mine are in the lid only. All 8 have to do is remove the lid and fill the container and add a gallon of vinegar. Then let it sit for a while and then use the water hose to clean it up after that. I have the dolly's on mine so they are easy to take outside once I take the lid off and remove any pumps not attached to the lid. It is fun trying to find a place for the lid until I get the container cleaned since it has all the tubing and a pump hanging off of it.
 

ReefGeezer

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I use bulkheads. The Brute's plastic flattens easily as long as you don't too close to a radius. I've had the same bulkhead in my ATO Brute for years without a leak. Of course now that I've talked about it, it's gonna start!
 

RaymondNoodles

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I also used Brutes. You can also find different sizes to fit your needs, which I learned a bit too late. I started with Uniseals, but one started leaking after just a few months. I replaced it with a bulkhead of the same size and it sealed right back up. Going forward I'll probably stick to bulkheads as they are easier to find locally and as others have said, the trashcans flex to flat as long as you aren't right on a seam or corner.

Mixing station Build thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/mixing-station-build-with-images-and-lessons-learned.870155/
Thanks for the advice on uniseal vs bulkhead. I was wondering if the trash can would flex flat enough for the bulkhead to be effective. Probably wise to get quality beefy bulkheads and avoid the cheap junk.

They are not too hard to clean since I have no bulkheads in the sides of the container. All of mine are in the lid only. All 8 have to do is remove the lid and fill the container and add a gallon of vinegar. Then let it sit for a while and then use the water hose to clean it up after that. I have the dolly's on mine so they are easy to take outside once I take the lid off and remove any pumps not attached to the lid. It is fun trying to find a place for the lid until I get the container cleaned since it has all the tubing and a pump hanging off of it.

I like the idea of no holes in the sides of the can. Trying to digest everything you have going on with that lid though lol. High tech setup!

I use bulkheads. The Brute's plastic flattens easily as long as you don't too close to a radius. I've had the same bulkhead in my ATO Brute for years without a leak. Of course now that I've talked about it, it's gonna start!
Thanks for the confirmation. Sounds like you did it right if you’ve made it this long with no leaks. I’m trying to come up with a good drip pan and drain design incase of a leak. Chances are I’ll screw it up the first go around.
 

n2585722

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I like the idea of no holes in the sides of the can. Trying to digest everything you have going on with that lid though lol. High tech setup!
There is the transfer pump, full float switch and low level float switch. The clear 3/8" tubing is for a pressure sensor for water level. There is a float valve on the DI fill input from the RODI unit. Once I add the salt mix and it is ready to use I press a button to set that it is ready in the controller. When the fresh saltwater tank get a low level the controller transfers the water from the mix tank to the fresh salt water tank. Once that is complete the controller turns on the RODI and refills the mix tank with DI. Then all I do is add the salt mix to the mix tank again. If I do not press the button then the transfer will not take place and the AWC will also stop running. Below is a screenshot of the graphs of the inputs for the fresh salt water tank and the mix tank during a transfer and mix tank DI refill.


E2AD574D-1946-4A7F-B4AA-CF1CF917A7FE.png
 

RaymondNoodles

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Thanks for breaking that down. Amazing setup. Is the pressure sensor for redundancy incase the high level float switch fails? Trying to think why else you'd need a pressure sensor.

Are you satisfied with the Reef Crystals? Do you get any buildup on pumps, heaters, etc in your DT? Would you hesitate to use RC or any other salt for that manner in a mixing container with a smaller lid/opening that is more difficult than the Brute to access/clean? Beautiful DT/build BTW....those carpentry skills though :cool:
 

n2585722

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The pressure sensor is just for my benefit. I can see the approximate water level in each of the three tanks. There is float valves on the fill input of each tank as a backup for the full float switch. I also have leak detectors as a backup for that backup. The RODI also has a maximum on time limit. So if it does not fill in that time it shuts off the fill valve and sends an alert. I can roll out the cans from underneath my workbench if needed.

I have been satisfied with the Reef Crystals. That buildup has been limited to the mix tank for the most part. There is a little in the fresh salt water tank. A full fresh salt water tank will last me about 4 weeks of use. I am not sure about using it in a closed container though.

Thanks for the complements on the stand and canopy. I learned quite a bit building them. They are still in pretty good shape after 6 years of use. I have a 110 gallon tank I need to do the same with but my wife wants me to build her some kitchen cabinets first. So I guess that will be the next big project.
 

fdevans

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I’m trying to come up with a good drip pan and drain design incase of a leak. Chances are I’ll screw it up the first go around.
I used hot water heater pans. I then piped them together and since I set mine up near my hot water heater I connected them to the overflow that end up outside. (see last picture of first post in build thread) They did save me when the first uni-seal failed as I dealing with another issue at the same time requiring multiple water changes and I had to let it just leak out in the mean time. Main lesson learned (almost too late) was that you want to make sure you put the hole high enough on the can that the edges of the drip pan don't interfere with the plumbing.
 

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