Can I remove the center door jam so I can slide in my new sump?

[Slingshot357]

Why not just drain a good portion of water and slide the tank forward and put the sump in from the back? Looks wide open to me. Seems safer, and less work

To be honest I'm afraid to move the thing. It's been there for about 14 years and I don't want to disturb anything that's settled in to position, so to speak. Also, when we had hard wood floors installed they actually trimmed around the bottom of the tank, so I'd have to rip that out to move it. I will be emptying about 30% of the water before I do this though so I think all will be fine.

 

[cromag27]

I ended up ordering a jack post from Amazon to help brace the stand frame. It's probably overkill but it was only $30 and I'm sure I'll find other uses for it.

or just return it when you’re done.

 

[GJak]

If it has corner posts (hard to tell from pics), take off the side panel and slip it in that way.

 

[Jeff Jarry reef]

I had the same problem and cut my center brace out and it didn't have no effect on my 90 gallon or the stand Whatsoever. If concerned about cut a temporary leg to one side. When done put center brace back. And it was full of water and rock. It's oak too

 

[S2G]

Can you remove the plywood on the end? How is it supported in the corners?

 

[Jeff Jarry reef]

On mine I can't because the it's made
I would cut a temp post put it on the left or right side of center. Cut center out slide sump in and put center back good Togo.

 

[Terry Mattson]

I ended up ordering a jack post from Amazon to help brace the stand frame. It's probably overkill but it was only $30 and I'm sure I'll find other uses for it.

Good decision. Safe.

 

[Jeff Jarry reef]

Ok, so everyone is going to say the opposite of what I’m about to say, but hear me out. I did the same exact thing on my old 125 gal. No you cannot remove the center brace. BUT, you can do like I did and take a 2 x4 and hammer it in further down so it is wedged right enough to support the weight. Bust out your center brace and put your sump in. Then put your center brace back using lots of wood glue and nails(with air gun) or screws. Whichever was already in it. Make sure you over do the securing job on the center brace because you had to compromise the original nails and glue. Let this set up, then pop the 2 x 4 out with a hammer. My dad actually did this for me and if it makes you feel any better about this method, he is an engineer.

Hope this helps!

That's what I did and it worked out great

 

[DirtMcGurt]

I did this mod to my 75 gallon while it was up and running and full of water. However, I used the 8020 extruded aluminum and made a brace that really just supports the front of my tank. In case that middle brace was supporting the tank. I put the diy brace in 1st and loaded it via adjustable feet. Then I took a sawzall and cut the brace out. Touched up the bare wood with some heavy coats of paint. By far the best upgrade I've done. So much more room.

 

[Brian_68]

Not worth risking it to me without adding a temporary support right next to it prior. That is a 1000 lbs sitting there. Probably would only take 15 minutes if you have a board to cut it to size and secure.

 

[vetteguy53081]

These stands are designed for sump to be placed via rear of stand. That idea of bracing WOULD work

 

[DirtMcGurt]

I took a cpl pics to give you, or anyone else, an idea of how I removed my center brace and kept it out. The "silver" brace is the extruded aluminum I mentioned before. I did have to make new doors but, like @LadyMac mentioned you could secure that brace to the door and put in stops. I wish I had thought of that lol. Great idea! Anyways, it can be done and it's so much easier to access my sump and equipment without that pesky center brace on the way.

 

[Jeff Jarry reef]

I have no brace and it's fine. Depends on size of stand idk. No problems here

 

[Brian_68]

It's not a problem to remove the center brace until one day, possibly in the middle of the night it is a problem....

 

[Jeff Jarry reef]

It's not a problem to remove the center brace until one day, possibly in the middle of the night it is a problem....

Your right but it would have to bend thick aluminum brace first.

 

[Brian_68]

Your right but it would have to bend thick aluminum brace first.

Aluminum channel will flex much more than steel. The center brace not so much at all as the wood is under compression.

They have calculators to estimate the deflection. One here:

Beam Deflection and Stress Equations Calculator for Beam Supported on Both Ends Uniform Loading

Structural Beam Deflection, Stress, Bending Equations and calculator for a Beam Supported on Both Ends with Uniform Loading Stress and Deflection equations and calculator.

www.engineersedge.com

 

[ironman187]

A lot of garbage advice in here. You can remove it with no adverse effects. All that does it give the top spreader piece of solid a place to sit. It has no significant structural purpose. I had a cheap Aqueon stand that I pulled The center piece out on to swap sumps and it was fine. People tend to over-engineer things when it comes to stands, they are making sistered 2x4 or 2x6 stands sheeted with half inch plywood for 75gallon tanks and worrying about it collapsing. The weight is held up by the corners of the stand, the cross members are there to hold the corners up and keep them from splaying out, and to make the stand look nice. These pre-built stands are made out of 3/4" thick pine board that is stapled together. Even if the weight was supported by the 4 foot spans, here's the reality, a 4' span of 1 x 4 can support a "live" load of around 2300lbs. You tank, weighs in at around 1050lbs. you have two 4 foot spans of 1 x 4, so each one would be carrying about 525lbs if they carried ALL the weight.

Take the center out, and replace it when done. /thread

 

[Reefnman2]

A lot of garbage advice in here. You can remove it with no adverse effects. All that does it give the top spreader piece of solid a place to sit. It has no significant structural purpose. I had a cheap Aqueon stand that I pulled The center piece out on to swap sumps and it was fine. People tend to over-engineer things when it comes to stands, they are making sistered 2x4 or 2x6 stands sheeted with half inch plywood for 75gallon tanks and worrying about it collapsing. The weight is held up by the corners of the stand, the cross members are there to hold the corners up and keep them from splaying out, and to make the stand look nice. These pre-built stands are made out of 3/4" thick pine board that is stapled together. Even if the weight was supported by the 4 foot spans, here's the reality, a 4' span of 1 x 4 can support a "live" load of around 2300lbs. You tank, weighs in at around 1050lbs. you have two 4 foot spans of 1 x 4, so each one would be carrying about 525lbs if they carried ALL the weight.

Take the center out, and replace it when done. /thread

I don't think they are "garbage posts" I believe it's other members giving advice so another member doesn't get themselves in a bind or worse get themselves hurt.

 

[Brian_68]

I don't think they are "garbage posts" I believe it's other members giving advice so another member doesn't get themselves in a bind or worse get themselves hurt.

I agree and saying a 1 by 4 can support 2300 lbs live load is not backed up with facts. That is the weight of some small cars on a 1 by 4...... in compression is one thing lateral is another. One needs to be safe.

 

[Jeff Jarry reef]

I know everyone here has ideas and opinions. Some may not work for all that purpose. That's why one should do research for himself.
What works for one may not work for another. Every tank is different and so are tank stands to an extent far how there built with whatever materials and constructed. As far as me I was just sharing what works for me and it has a long time. If you don't like there idea that someone has move on until you find something that works for you. Peace out