whether you like canister filters or not I need some help setting mine up. I just bought a new sunsun HW303B for my 90 gallon. It came with one blue coarse pad, a couple fine white pads, carbon, bio balls, and ceramic rings. My question is, what is the best order to set it up with??
Canister filter setup
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beaslbob
2500 Club Member
bigger to smaller. get the big stuff with course filter then smaller stuff with less coarse and so on.
But the experts can help you better and I hope they are coming. My canister experience is limited.
But the experts can help you better and I hope they are coming. My canister experience is limited.
ReeferBob
Valuable Member
I suggest not using the ceramic rings or bio balls. The rock in your tank will do a better job. The rings and balls will collect ditreus and when (if) you clean it off you will disturb some of the established bacteria. If the filter is large enough, this could cause a mini-cycle. The other stuff is fine as long as you clean the filter weekly. Canisters are great for mechanical filtration but you should not allow them to become a biological filter.
@Untamedrose I belive your a canister guru? Yes?
IMO IME ditch the balls keep the rings. add a bag of carbon. the balls keep too much junk, the legendary nitrate factory.
IMO IME ditch the balls keep the rings. add a bag of carbon. the balls keep too much junk, the legendary nitrate factory.
Untamedrose
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IDK about guru but I just got my first sump after ten years of canister reefing, and the real reason I went sump was I wanted a planted marine tank with macros so it's 90% refugium rather then sump.
They worked fine and yes I use mechanical, biological and chemical filters.
Suggest bottom layer mechanical want least two layers a course and the very bottom and a finer layer on top.
second layer bio. I really adore the marinepure products they are leaps and bounds ahead of most of the other ring balls ect we have had in the past.
third layer I have chem. Polyfilter, some phosphate scrubber and leave room for a bag of carbon just in case but dont run it all the time.
Cleaning is important. Here is how I do it.
About every other water change(so once a month) I start the water change in my filter. Turn it off, lock the tubes so the water stays. Set the canister in a turkey pan(something to catch any over spill), pop the suction. All layers get put in a bucket. ALL the water in the canister gets dumped out, it gets rinsed out in the sink if there is stuff in there. The mechanical layer gets a good rinse out in tap water until it runs clear. chem is replaced or rinsed out as well, DONT rinse the bio layers(that will just kill them if you feel the need to slosh them do it in old tank water not tap). inspect polyfilter for any weird colors(signs of problems it just saved you from in your system) layers put back in, refill 98% with clean just mixed salt water(if you dont start with it filled be hells on the priming), reassembled but not turned on(least the ones I had would spray water everywhere if the DT water level got to low.)
Then I do my regular water change from the main tank(focused on sand cleaning but thats another topic) replace water, turn canister back on....3-5 priming pumps should do it. Do shake and tilt the canister some as there will be Some air in there this will get it out. Not including making the RO/DI water time ...and mixing the water up time....takes me maybe 45 mins.
I have the sunsun 304B next version up from your filter, they are beasts compared to other but especially for the prices. Be CAREFUL with the UV filter. If that tube cracks the pressure will force water up into the head of the unit and it will leak...slowly but a leaks a leak IT will also do this if you dont have a good water tight Vaseline seal on that tube. But it's one of the best I've had for priming, got a much more expensive one that my arm about falls off every time I have to restart it.
They worked fine and yes I use mechanical, biological and chemical filters.
Suggest bottom layer mechanical want least two layers a course and the very bottom and a finer layer on top.
second layer bio. I really adore the marinepure products they are leaps and bounds ahead of most of the other ring balls ect we have had in the past.
third layer I have chem. Polyfilter, some phosphate scrubber and leave room for a bag of carbon just in case but dont run it all the time.
Cleaning is important. Here is how I do it.
About every other water change(so once a month) I start the water change in my filter. Turn it off, lock the tubes so the water stays. Set the canister in a turkey pan(something to catch any over spill), pop the suction. All layers get put in a bucket. ALL the water in the canister gets dumped out, it gets rinsed out in the sink if there is stuff in there. The mechanical layer gets a good rinse out in tap water until it runs clear. chem is replaced or rinsed out as well, DONT rinse the bio layers(that will just kill them if you feel the need to slosh them do it in old tank water not tap). inspect polyfilter for any weird colors(signs of problems it just saved you from in your system) layers put back in, refill 98% with clean just mixed salt water(if you dont start with it filled be hells on the priming), reassembled but not turned on(least the ones I had would spray water everywhere if the DT water level got to low.)
Then I do my regular water change from the main tank(focused on sand cleaning but thats another topic) replace water, turn canister back on....3-5 priming pumps should do it. Do shake and tilt the canister some as there will be Some air in there this will get it out. Not including making the RO/DI water time ...and mixing the water up time....takes me maybe 45 mins.
I have the sunsun 304B next version up from your filter, they are beasts compared to other but especially for the prices. Be CAREFUL with the UV filter. If that tube cracks the pressure will force water up into the head of the unit and it will leak...slowly but a leaks a leak IT will also do this if you dont have a good water tight Vaseline seal on that tube. But it's one of the best I've had for priming, got a much more expensive one that my arm about falls off every time I have to restart it.
Bob Escher
Welcome to Saltwater
First off the 303 B is too small if it's the only canister/ filtration. The 304b is much closer. I had two 304b's on my freshwater 55 gallon( yes that was overkill) in the bottom basket it will be the most coarse on the bottom , then a a white. Next basket your bio media. Do not use bio all or the RINGS they are crap. Go online to https://greatwaveeng.com/shop/media/biohome-ultimate-media/ and buy that excellent stuff, the 303 has three baskets, the 304 has four, in the top basket use your chemical media ( purigen for example) and use the finest white pad you to cover it.
I used two canisters and would alternate changing pads, rinsing out the canister and rinsing media every week.
On canister you HAVE TO DO MAINTENANCE often or else it becomes a nitrate "factory "
Fill a bucket with saltwater use that to rinse your bio media.
Look at the pads the blue ones you can rinse and reuse, the white one you can't so stock up on them.
Depending if you use chemical media read the directions. Purigen you can reuse so stock up and change out after it gets super brown. Soak it overnight in bleach (24 hrs) the next day rinse out real good and place on RO/DI water with prime for another 24 hrs you'll be good after that!
Please ask if you have questions we're good here
Untamedrose
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Do have to agree with bob you would be better off with the 304B. If your just setting up could you send back trade up?
brianguz760
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Cause a mini cycle really ? .. I have a 60 gallon and Marineland c-220 on it. Just today I finally removed the bio balls after a year and a half I have 50 pounds on live rock and counting . But I didn't remove the bio rings. Didn't think it was such a big deal
By mini cycle (and I hate the term ) it means a temporary increase in nutrients as there's less of a biological filter to process them. You may get some alge and stuff or have to clean the glass more. But maybe not if you pulled out a nitrate factory. Not really something to worry about IMO.
Bob Escher
Welcome to Saltwater
What is helping you is the live rock and sand. The c220 is really nothing more than a waste collector ( your filter pads. You have way more filtration in the rock and sand than in the c220. So as salty says you may get a small increase but not a really big change
brianguz760
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Thanks guys. I don't have any room for a sump but I have been wanting to replace my canister filter for something better. Is there any that you guys may know of as far as canisters go?
Bob Escher
Welcome to Saltwater
What size is your stand? You can get sumps that are made out of ordinary aquarium tanks. I think the smallest may be ten gallons. My stand is 24 inches wide by 21 inches deep. And I have a 18x18 in sump in there. The sumps that come in regular tank come as a DIY kit with baffles already made ( you just silicone them in. If you have a 90 gallon tank you have room. Look at esshopps for example if you don't want to do a DIY
Don't get me wrong canister's aren't bad ( my opinion) but they do require constant maintenance. One guy says he does once a month I did every week I still do water changes every week. It all depends on how much fish, corals that your going to have and how far your tank is cycled
Don't get me wrong canister's aren't bad ( my opinion) but they do require constant maintenance. One guy says he does once a month I did every week I still do water changes every week. It all depends on how much fish, corals that your going to have and how far your tank is cycled
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