changed RODI Filters TDS raised some?

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I changed all my filters except my RO membrane and the TDS before DI raised to 6 from 3. It is still 0 coming out of the DI chambers. I am just curious to understand this more if I can.
I am making water about twice as fast now so it definitely needed it.
I was using the more expensive BRS Carbon blocks before and am now using the slightly cheaper Matrix ones, could that be it?
or my new sediment filter is 5 micron maybe my previous one was 1? I don't recall.
 
I changed all my filters except my RO membrane and the TDS before DI raised to 6 from 3. It is still 0 coming out of the DI chambers. I am just curious to understand this more if I can.
I am making water about twice as fast now so it definitely needed it.
I was using the more expensive BRS Carbon blocks before and am now using the slightly cheaper Matrix ones, could that be it?
or my new sediment filter is 5 micron maybe my previous one was 1? I don't recall.
Did you flush out the lines before the ro chamber? I usually unhook the line going to the chamber, and let the water flush out about 10-20 gallons.
 
yeah, I actually have a toggle to switch product water to the drain in order to flush the system once the float valve stops it. I ran it to the drain for about 5 hours.
 
Did you flush out the lines before the ro chamber? I usually unhook the line going to the chamber, and let the water flush out about 10-20 gallons.
Wait do you mean take the RO membrane out of the circuit and just run water through the sediment/carbon filters/DI?
Did I mess up my membrane by not doing that?

TDS is now at 8. I'm guessing I had a 1 micron sediment filter before or my pressure is down to 27 now which is 4 lower than it used to be and maybe that is ruining their effectiveness.
 
Wait do you mean take the RO membrane out of the circuit and just run water through the sediment/carbon filters/DI?
Did I mess up my membrane by not doing that?

TDS is now at 8. I'm guessing I had a 1 micron sediment filter before or my pressure is down to 27 now which is 4 lower than it used to be and maybe that is ruining their effectiveness.
You need to run water through the carbon to get the dust off before hooking that canister to your membrane...
 
Minimum Water Feed Pressure for Optimal Results:
75/100gpd System: 50+ PSI
150/200gpd System: 65+ PSI

flush the pre-filters, temporarily place the BLUE product water line into your drain. Remove pre-filter packaging and install it in their appropriate filter housing. DO NOT install the TFC membrane or DI media cartridge at this point.
Allow the water to run through the system for 10 minutes to flush the sediment and carbon block filter cartridges.


https://www.coralvue.com/blog/icecap-rodi-getstarted
 
Indeed it is too low. I am under the impression that just slows down production and increases DI usage.
It is producing 0 TDS water at least.

The replacements were done last week and I've already made 40 gallons. I did run the water to a drain for 5 hours after and next time I'll do it right but is my membrane ok to keep using? I guess they aren't too expensive.
 
Indeed it is too low. I am under the impression that just slows down production and increases DI usage.
It is producing 0 TDS water at least.

The replacements were done last week and I've already made 40 gallons. I did run the water to a drain for 5 hours after and next time I'll do it right but is my membrane ok to keep using? I guess they aren't too expensive.
No clue.
 
Wait do you mean take the RO membrane out of the circuit and just run water through the sediment/carbon filters/DI?
Did I mess up my membrane by not doing that?

TDS is now at 8. I'm guessing I had a 1 micron sediment filter before or my pressure is down to 27 now which is 4 lower than it used to be and maybe that is ruining their effectiveness.
I'm not sure if it messed up the membrane, but it is a practice I do when changing carbon filters.
 

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