Dennis Cartier

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People who run CalRx have to make sure to keep an eye on their CO2 tank and be ready to get it filled on a moment's notice, or if you have a spare full tank, be ready to swap the backup tank for the active one when it runs out. The thing is, CalRx's often end up being a set it and forget it type of equipment. That is unless your alkalinity starts dropping. In those cases, you will then have to both notice the drop and go in search of what has changed. At that point you then have to get it filled (or swapped) and carefully bring your alkalinity backup up. There has to be a better way ...

So I have decided to build a CO2 tank auto switcher. A device to monitor the pressure being provided after the regulator and swapping over to a hot backup tank when the main tank runs out. I am not the first person to think of this. You can get laboratory versions of the same equipment, intended for the same purpose, to make sure your experiment keeps running even if the staff has went home. There is even an aquarium version. Bill at AE has one that he designed. After watching a video of his version and then looking up the price, I started to ponder on what such a device would require to work, and that is the genesis of this project.

At the very basic level, you need a pressure sensor and a solenoid valve. The pressure sensor monitors the pressure after the regulator of the in use tank and when the pressure drops below a set point, the solenoid is energized opening the valve, connecting the hot spare tank, making it the in use tank. An indicator light or LED would also be needed to signal the backup tank is now being used. This design will work, but it leaves a few unresolved corner cases, or ways that the tank keeper could still mess it up.

For instance, it does not know if the hot spare is still hot. Has it developed a slow leak and the backup tank is in fact empty? Did the tank owner forget to replace the hot spare and it is just an open connection? Did the tank owner even notice the backup was being used as a light or LED has limited notification potential.

The above design will work, but we can do so much better.

I have experience with the Clippard EV Mouse valves. These are the heart of the Carbon Doser that everyone considers a huge improvement over bubble counters. Off topic, the Carbon Doser's are super easy to make, you only need an adjustable timer with a potentiometer, a Clippard valve and an LED. Anyway, for this project I need a pressure sensor that is intended for gases like CO2. So I scoured Ebay. Much to my surprise there are some really good ones available. I sourced 4 EFM Effector PN5204 from a few sellers. These are industrial pressure sensors used in the automation field (from what I could tell). They are discontinued products, but for this project they are perfect. They have a single PNP output that can be triggered and disabled at pressures you set. It offers 3 different scales (bar, MPa, PSI), time delays and can be set to be NO or NC. They operate at 18 - 36 VDC. For this project, they have everything we need and even a bit more.

Here are the 4 units I purchased, with 1 powered up and reading 0 psi.
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OK the first improvement to the basic design you can make is to add a buzzer to the output of the sensor with an inline switch. This will hopefully be enough to alert you to the spare tank being in use. The switch is to silence the buzzer to allow you some time to get the main tank re-filled and re-connected without the buzzer sounding constantly. Hopefully you remember to reset the buzzer switch to alert after you swap tanks.

The next improvement would be to add another pressure sensor in between the hot spare's regulator and the valve that activates the hot spare tank to becoming in use. This would alert you to an empty tank that had a leak and bled off all the CO2, a tank that has not been replaced, or a hot spare that was run until empty.

The following improvement is to cease driving the valve directly from the pressure sensor's output and have a micro controller (uC) monitor the pressure sensor and be tasked with enabling the valves and alerting the tank owner to the current status of events. Now we can do much fancier things. You can have it text you, or tweet you, or as I am planning to do, push events through MQTT so that other systems can be made aware and the tank owner can be nagged. This opens up the possibility of doing a lot more things. For instance, using a valve after every regulator and then having a pressure sensor on the main manifold would allow for any number of tanks to be used. There would still be a primary tank that gets used first, and then each connected tank would get used in series until they are all depleted. This scenario would play out like this, a downstream device would open and bleed off CO2, this would cause the pressure sensor to notify the uC that the pressure has dropped below the low set point. The uC would open the valve of the primary tank and wait for the high set point to trip. This would happen very, very, fast. The fastest response time of the pressure sensor is 3 ms, so if the high point has not been tripped in a short period of time, the valve of the primary tank would be closed and the valve of next tank in line would open and another timeout cycle waiting for the high point to trip would begin.

Another benefit of this design is that it can detect and react to catastrophic failures downstream of the system. A blown hose could be detected by the inability to hold enough pressure to trip the sensor, and all valves would be closed as a result, stopping a potential entire tank of CO2 from being dumped to atmosphere.

You also have the potential to detect slow leaks downstream. If no downstream valves opened up, say on your CalRx, but the in use tank's valve keeps being periodically energized to bring the pressure back up to the preset, then there must be a leak. This also allows you to track calls for CO2 from downstream equipment which could provide some interesting metrics.

Another neat aspect, is that the EFM pressure sensor's and a single valve create an electronic pressure regulator. As the high and low set point are adjustable, you can set it for any pressure you want. For instance, I have my A.C.R. CalRx being fed at 10 psi currently. If I wanted to run my CO2 regulators at 25 psi, I could set the high point on the pressure sensor to 10 psi and still provide 10 psi to downstream equipment even though my regulator is providing it at 25 psi.

While testing the 4 sensors, I setup a test where I installed them on the CO2 bleed line on my A.C.R reactor that I use for maintenance. I was able to test them and determine that my A.C.R runs at 2 psi of pressure. The CalRx reactor adjusts itself to the head pressure of the pump feeding it, but I was never sure what that head pressure was. Now I know, 2 psi.

Another cool use for these pressure sensors is to monitor air pumps for needed maintenance. The photo below is a couple of 4 valve assemblies I made to balance air stones in different vessels with differing water levels. If you have ever tried to drive multiple air stones using a single air pump, it can be quite onerous to get the same amount of air going to each one without the one with the lowest level sucking up all the air flow, while the ones with the highest water level all but stop. One of these 4 valve assemblies will be used for a set of 4, 2 gallon reef jars I am planning for. Adding a pressure sensor on to the manifold will allow the controller to check to make sure that the pressure is high enough to trigger the preset. When the air pump gets dirty, it will eventually not be able to trigger the preset (with all 4 valves closed), or will take longer than expected, signalling a need for a cleaning.

ACtC-3cGR1EgVEkwORIOUfecg45gUIqcnlI1VGOZOghBqi7_AgeuRwb9Xw8qnGl2s1mUCbN-QagjxKoPD1EQRf_hQs4tcCTT0Y1DZwmnZX785ydlcvGtblzLVHtfy2fCrNjRhqR1A2uHUMBIk8BFAWWZ4j9G=w538-h956-no


I am waiting for a couple of things to arrive. I have (10) of the 24V Clippard valves coming along with the fittings for 1/4" hose. I also need Adafruit to roll-out the new Feather micro controllers I expect they are working on. All the older Feather's are out of stock, so I am guessing new versions using the ESP32-C3 are in the works. Lastly, I need the lockdown to end in my area so that I can access the industrial suppliers I will need for the pneumatic parts. That is supposed to be a week from now. Oh, I also need a second CO2 tank. I have my LFS working on that already.

Dennis
 
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Dennis Cartier

Dennis Cartier

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The Ebay gods have delivered more recruits. These 6 are a different model of pressure sensor than the previous ones. These are PN7024 units which only measure in bar and the high and low limits are settable in 0.5% of the measuring range. The range on these is 10 bar (145.038 psi), so limits have a 0.72519 psi increment. They do however have 2 outputs instead of 1 like the PN5204 offered, and they are independently settable for limits and operation parameters. They work like having 2 pressure sensors fed from the same input. The display also reads in % of the full range, so not nearly as handy as having it display the psi. Each output has an LED that lights to show status of the output though.

I think I am set for awhile on hardware for measuring gas pressures.

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Dennis
 
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Interested to see this completed
Oh, oh, proof of life may be required ... ;)

Still collecting up parts. I am working on sourcing cables for the Clippard valves today. I am awaiting a response from a vendor offering a cable for $7, with $137 in shipping?! What are they thinking ...

I grabbed a bunch of random pneumatic bits to have on hand for the build. I realized that I can actually do it just with fittings rather than the block manifolds.
ACtC-3fbNP1zZuOmeBVBlbygzWoZqC8ZJTbwT7hab75NN0oy7G5TgK-1SHKX8rOp9gcvRd_NDhclOMt1FcGAF4vrgyVV1WD5juZRu4YxwGSqqbX7QpqGufokiP_MiwWOKTGcJ82H0N-6hL3W1qRft9-PcwJdYQ=w717-h956-no


The Clippard valves arrived, along with the 10-32 connectors.
ACtC-3deF71nRcEXt9JM2YD5LBpAYrwh-EzBF4HgAdqr92gfPlpxA61KEpCRYNQpuECpmHtGKqAsqjmQ4GMRtX3MYbCfhnmSFz6qDbcLuGEvuliGatuFI9T6KH6HGuJcobVi5obrn-5fslonmqKsQ9HAvPlFeA=w717-h956-no


Dennis
 

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Thanks!

Seems like quite a few parts. What would you estimate is the cost of building one of these devices?
 
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The cost depends on sourcing the parts. The EFM Effector pressure sensors can be had on Ebay for reasonable amounts ($20 - $30) if you are patient. Same for the Clippard valves. With the valves, you should try to get inline versions rather than manifold mounts as the Clippard manifolds are not as common used. The inline ones do require some specific fittings though, often with 10-32 ports. Again, Ebay for those fittings. For the voltage on the valves, 24 volt is preferred as the EFM sensor uses 18-36V DC and being able to share a power supply helps keep things simple.

Ok, the parts shown thus far, are way, way, more than I need to build one unit. I tend to snap up parts when I run across them in the expectation that they will find a home in a future project. One of the Clippard valves will be replacing the factory control on my A.C.R. CalRx as I run it with a peristaltic pump anyway.

To build a single unit, an analog one, supporting a single backup CO2 tank, using just the EFM sensor and a clippard valve, would be about $100 - $150 USD. To build a 'smart' one that uses a micro-controller, about another $50 for another valve and the uC board.

I am still deciding on the best way to interface the valves to the uC. I am thinking the ULN2803A darlington array would be perfect. I have a pi hat that includes that feature, but I really did not want to dedicate a Raspberry Pi to this project. It would be way overkill, so I am looking into getting some ULN2803A breakout boards that can use an off the shelf uC.

Dennis
 
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I finally got around to assembling a version of this.

This unit is a simple, non-intelligent version that uses two IFM pressure sensors and two Clippard valves. One of the IFM units supports 2 programmable outputs, while the other has a single output available. The unit that has 2 outputs will operate both Clippard valves, keeping the valve for the main CO2 tank energized all the time and only toggling it off, and the backup CO2 tank's valve on, when the pressure drops below a preset limit.

The second IFM unit, the one with a single output, will simply monitor the backup CO2 tank's pressure and trigger a warning should it fall below a preset pressure. This prevents the situation where the backup tank is empty and the main tank runs low toggling to the empty backup tank, with the aquarist unaware of the fault.

When a CO2 tank runs low, a toggle switch is illuminated and an alarm is sound. The alarm can be silenced by toggling the specific toggle switch off. That way, the main CO2 tank running empty, sounds an alarm, the tank owner hears it, toggles off the switch for that CO2 tank, and is now aware the backup CO2 tank is in use and the main CO2 tank needs to be re-filled.

There is also a main CO2 tank toggle switch that disables the main CO2 tank's valve that I plan to use for maintenance purposes on my CalRx.

Here is the schematics of the unit. Pretty basic. Mostly just connecting a few contacts together.

The diodes in the circuit were added after I tested the unit and noticed that the alarm condition for either CO2 tank would illuminate both toggle switches as the current was being back feeding to the other tank's switch.

AM-JKLWqTk6UWS3rZ1uwZBqr6IxgQGoJk6D9eb_P5gXky6XhWjxH-_VJBOEOzBTvC6JBdWEK4lOLR9zE-OaYwfyBHTTxk4Q8sH8GX6nswk1MSvCr0aOcN5qnu913g8PsdZg6988G3X_LUF6Zd4HUjPpn4QW7qA=w717-h956-no


My solution to the back feeding while preserving the existing connectors.

AM-JKLXS4AMQnrIyTAI49B5EUXPczHynviRmjkoLorwRu519n7uiLAl4ZEwb1i7NM_pK3TKcRHnMfaKuTZ1S3MyvPJn6pohJuE4IFFkoiJPxdQwWrNMW5vtv8TIpd_FRApjJAYUINb_HO9DxkrSygD8SCCwuyA=w717-h956-no


I bought a crimper and connector kit to make nice clean connections, but I ended soldering most of them anyway when I was not satisfied with the crimps.

Ok, now on to the physical build.

I wanted to use one of the Scepter PVC boxes with the flip out tabs for securing the lids. After driving to the distributor, I found out that all of the Scepter boxes are out of stock (locally) due to the pandemic. I settled for a Carlon box from Home Depot instead.

I drilled some 20 mm holes for some waterproof toggles along with a cable way. I was planning on mounting the sensors and valves directly to the box, but decided to do them remotely, so the single cable way made sense. Not having a proper mountable power jack, I drilled a snug hole for the power adapter. A bit ghetto, but it will do.
AM-JKLUKjMAFXuScWdNC8nyMl57yMFnetTsj9rZ9YXcC2vFLg8NbTH_tosVRKGdIgW8LBwFxU252HVZJRB0roU3IeIQK4zzNiA0iWzghZjI9TdCuDehFL6Pd-TcpZfUmZnPykh3D2pixE_xRAYyhhicsX8paqg=w717-h956-no


The green toggle is illuminated when the main CO2 tank is in use and disables the valve, shutting down the CO2 flow. Each red switch is for indicating a low pressure on a tank and for silencing the alarm.

AM-JKLW9bvoX7esYuKf9fZIkwzAyw7qHDrHIseuPa1AEZ6WVeNfZTY5Guj4GvgPy6MPIxh2ToL_IlxiYQ8WGop4fqr__y8ly8vLoVqef7we-1OEiWLBQCbFO9vXy4PuFmpRbeGaa2W8dedaICd1NKEe4auop_w=w717-h956-no


The completed wiring harness with the diodes added. As you can see, I overlooked putting insulators on the diode adapters during the assembly. It is fairly crowded in the box, but not too bad. The white cable laying on the bottom, not hooked up is not used as the IFM sensor on that one only has 1 output.

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I decided to mount the switch box and the sensors and valves to a stand made from extrusions.

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The IFM sensor on the left is a PN7024. It supports 2 outputs, but only measures in bar and does not support PSI. Because of this, I have the outputs toggle (switching between CO2 tanks) when the pressure drops below 0.30 bar (about 4 PSI). One output is configured as normally open (NO) and the second is set for normally closed (NC). This works pretty well for the intended purpose. I have some PSI capable versions (PN7004) on the way from Ebay. So I will swap the sensor out once they get here.

The IFM sensor on the right is a PN5004. It supports a single output and measures in bar, kpa, and PSI. I have it configured for PSI and set to sound the alarm and illuminate the red toggle on the right when the pressure of the backup CO2 tank drops below 4 PSI.

The CO2 output to the aquarium devices is the Y connection in the middle of the extrusion. The green tee connection is for the main CO2 tank to hookup, while the red tee is for the backup tank to hook up to.

AM-JKLWA_eAImm0PkilOQTb0HS8Jnn5tOUSFan32-9trpe5goCT_lEzBttmyAiNc_4K21ZNXGR9jWaiQ5umrCuYbIANHVqGJb9TQ7GpTC17HAazgQJrW1w31rET_yLJSSnD6gdwdytxrw4IK-1Yk5L978pVgjw=w717-h956-no


I have it running now, but only with a single tank hooked up. I have a backup tank with regulator all ready to go, but a few months back I stumbled on the nylon seal I had laying around that I was planning to use for the backup tank. Thinking I should put it somewhere 'safe' so that I could easily locate it for when the auto tank switcher project came to fruition, I stored it away. Unfortunately I have no idea where I put it and have searched high and low and am unable to find it. Sigh, safe apparently means safe from me. I will need to go get another seal from my CO2 supplier in the next few days.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Dennis
 
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theatrus

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I like this, and yeah I've encountered the tank dump issue skewing my controlled CO2 setup. For me, I can usually tell when I have about a month left on a tank due to pressure drop, but this isn't super reliable to time the end state. Curious how well your pressure transducers handle it :)

I've thought about weighing the tanks with a load cell to track usage. Usually I use 20lb tanks so I don't have to mess with it for months.
 
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Dennis Cartier

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I don't think I will get the chance to test the dump issue. Both my CO2 tanks use dual stage Harris regulators, so they should stay stable down to the point where the IFM sensor switches to the backup tank.

If I had a single stage and wanted to protect against the dumping issue, I would use a normally closed Clippard valve and an IFM pressure sensor to toggle the valve closed when the pressure exceeds the set value. Otherwise keep the valve energized an open when the pressure is under the preset. That would at least provide a ceiling on the high side and I suspect make the dumping issue a lot less of a problem for a single stage regulator.

I now have the backup tank online. I sourced a seal for the regulator and hooked it up to the unit.

Dennis
 
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@theatrus I thought some more about the dumping scenario that you have encountered. I have never experienced it myself, but reading about it, it sounds like the regulator loses precision and the pressure varies from the set value as the CO2 tank runs low.

I think this can be detected and mitigated using my previous suggestion of an IFM sensor and a Clippard valve. To protect against over pressure and warn about under pressure, an IFM that supports 2 outputs should be used. Something like a PN7204 would be a good choice. Output 1 would be used to control the Clippard valve and would be set to keep the valve open as long as the measured pressure is below n PSI. As the tank nears the end and the regulator pressure starts to vary, the IFM would use the valve to clamp the pressure to the chosen preset. Setting the regulator to a higher than desired PSI and using the IFM/Clippard to electronically regulate it lower, even while the tank is full, is another option as well.

To protect against the low pressure scenario, the second output would be used to energize a buzzer to signal an alarm condition. The alarm would be sounded when the pressure failed to reach the preset pressure for a period of time. The IFM sensors support a time delay and reset delay of up to 50 seconds before the outputs are activated. So setting a delay of 10 or 15 seconds of under pressure before output 2 sounds the alarm, with a quick reset of 1 second or even disabled (0.0s), should only sound the alarm when the pressure drops below the preset and stays low for an extended period. My expectation is that this would catch and alert on the end of tank situation where the pressure is not able to sustain the desired preset.

I think this would cover both aspects of the end of tank dumping and alert you to when the tank needs to be refilled.

Dennis
 
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I like both of these suggestions. I had been working on (but stalled for various reasons) a replacement for my clippard valve bubbler which is currently more on a on/off control than PID control.

You are correct that the secondary pressure does change, which for an on/off control with a needle valve will shift the bubble rate, and causes larger swings in pH in the reactor. Its nothing drastic usually, but in one case went as bad as gas-locking the recirculation in the chamber until my peristaltic pump could purge it out with water.

Using a secondary pressure sensor and compensating in bubble rate would be more than enough.
 
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I updated to using a IFM sensor that is able to use PSI rather than bar. I swapped the PN7024 for a PN7204. It was just for aesthetics so that both tanks read 8 PSI rather than one showing 0.45 (bar).

Dennis
 
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My auto tank switcher is still standing sentinel waiting for the active CO2 tank to run out. It is only running on a small frag tank, that had a crash in the summer, so limited corals, but when the 10# tank does finally run low, it will be ready to spring into action, lol.

I have tested it by forcing the situation (closing the valve on the tank) and it behaves as expected. This is probably the first project that I managed to get all the bells and whistles included that I wanted, right from the start.

Eventually it will get more use when it gets deployed on my oft delayed 500G build.

Dennis
 
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Finally, the PSI of my main CO2 tank has started to drop. I have been waiting almost 2 years for the 10# tank to get depleted. It's down to 700 PSI and dropping slowly. This will be the first time the auto tank switcher kicks in for a natural switchover. I have forced it in the past by turning off the valve, but this will be a real world cut over. Finally!

My guess is that it will probably trigger in the middle of the night sometime (in the future), sounding the ear piercing alarm, lighting the LED, and causing me to wake up to investigate.
 
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600 PSI!

I know, paint would have dried faster. Most likely, the paint would have already been dried, went out of style, and be ready for a remodel by now, lol.

I expect the pressure to fall faster and faster as pressures get lower.
 

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