converting 300 to triton
- Thread starter bwrag
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straight ill get you some pics hopefully give me some insight. because after all the corals i lost and problems its getting very discouraging. i want to kill it stabilize the tank then add a ton of frags i want to get it going great but having a hard time.
okay after adding power head to element 1 container my alk finally seems stable. So one issue down, get rid of the byropsis then ill start restocking. at first i was sickened by coral loss now I have lost so much im looking as it as a chance to restock with only things i really like. i pruned my chaeto yesterday i stuffed 2 1 gallon Ziplocs to max and dosnt even look like i put a dent in it.
Shake as much of the pods out that you can in another container of Salt water then throw that in to the tank for food. Chaeto will grow to a point and then stop. You need to prune all of your algae back so that it can grow. Algae is a opportunist and will use up all of the nutrients that it can or has the opportunity to consume.
i run a Algae turf scrubber, Chaeto and Mangroves. I can tell you that my Chaeto doesn't grow fast because the nutrients are already low in my tank.
i run a Algae turf scrubber, Chaeto and Mangroves. I can tell you that my Chaeto doesn't grow fast because the nutrients are already low in my tank.
ordered second test just to check everything. I have a feeling im going to need a water change to get some elements on track but if not good. alk has been stable. calcium is above 400 not sure exactly but triton test will no for sure. I have 100 gallons of rodi made up and full bucket of tropical marine pro salt just incase. my algae has receeded alot i already need to prune chaeto and the fern like calpuera. which ill do tonight.
okay wanted opinon. my sps keep dying. in my dt but are doing fine in my frag which is built into sump. I was thinking my water is to clean and the mh is burning them. so i turned my mh off for a few days only running my actinic and the corals looked alot better. so not sure if my theroy is true. I also test my phosphates which is zero on hanna. and nitrates which are .2 according to salifert. my frag is a 10k bml led fixture which i run on 25%. all my corals are brown but living and the things i pull out of my dt are recovering down there. please give thoughts. should i feed more to fish or start feeding corals. im cutting my chaeto in half weekly. my other theroy is some of my calpuera turns white andx releases toxins directly to dt and it is filtered out before making it back to frag after socks skimmer and gac, but i dont have hardly any die off and it seems far fetched. ill be doing a second triton test tonight and mail in morning.
you are doing it correctly.. but what other light supplement is running the full course of the day? 8 hour period i assume.
This happens when you go from an old bulb to a new bulb with MH. You sometimes need to re-acclimate the corals to the new bulb.
This happens when you go from an old bulb to a new bulb with MH. You sometimes need to re-acclimate the corals to the new bulb.
my bropsis is 90% gone. macros growing fast. i added to test pieces of sps saturday and they are looking great. so once second test arrive ill be restocking depending on results.
im also considering downgrading to 250w mh or switching to hydra 52s because these 400 are eating my lps and zoas up. im running 1 hr/day and there doing ok now.
also does anyone else have to attempt to login multiple times for triton. before it will work
im also considering downgrading to 250w mh or switching to hydra 52s because these 400 are eating my lps and zoas up. im running 1 hr/day and there doing ok now.
also does anyone else have to attempt to login multiple times for triton. before it will work
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my plan is to dose calcium, iodine and potassium according to triton recomendation. then once im in normal range do 4 15% water changes. i thought about doing water change first but then ill have no idea if the 3 elements are ever back in range unless i did another test. this way i know they are in range. please give suggestions.
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I'm now wondering if my Zoas melting was not from light strength but iodine levels. I know it hasn't been proven that iodine directly effects zoas. But it will be interesting if they start coming back once iodine is normal
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