Copperband butterfly

Jayden K

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How do I take care of a copperband. It's coming in 2 weeks, already quarantined and eating. I did a fair bit of research but I want as much info and already know what to do if something goes wrong. I also know these guys like to stop eating after being shipped. All help is appreciated, sending links to forums is also helpful. I also have a longnose butterfly and a spot butterfly coming, let me know what I should prepare having.
 

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Since your tank is only a few months old, I would strongly suggest adding a refugium to your system and stocking it with cultured pods. Algae Barn is my go-to place but there are options. I haven’t tried @Reef By Steele yet, but people say good things and they are active on the forums. I think they might have a sale going right now.
 

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Since your tank is only a few months old, I would strongly suggest adding a refugium to your system and stocking it with cultured pods. Algae Barn is my go-to place but there are options. I haven’t tried @Reef By Steele yet, but people say good things and they are active on the forums. I think they might have a sale going right now.
Thanks for the shout out.
 

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Butterflies can be tricky. Especially if they have specific dietary needs. We had a copperbanded we got in a battle against aiptaisa, it did a great job, and we were going to move it to our other reef, but it died and I have no idea why as it was fat and sassy. Most new fish can be enticed to eat with live foods to at least get them past the trip stress. Live brine would be a good go to as they elicit a feeding response. We dose copepods generously to our QT system prior to and during the process, but this system is observation and feeding training only. If there are any signs of parasites or disease we move them to hospital tanks and treat accordingly.
 

landlubber

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One of the biggest challenges i wasn't able to get around was how skittish CB are. When i'd feed the tank the more aggressive feeders like Tangs would charge for the food and essentially scare the CB into hiding. Enough of those in a row and it becomes a problem.
 

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In my experience, you need to have plenty of grazing space for the cbb to pick at when it’s first introduced. After that you need to offer a variety of food options in the hopes of finding one. Some people try special feeders but in truth once settled the copperband is not often outcompeted but just doesn’t start eating. Once they are feeding they are usually fine, but that in of itself is the hit or miss. My last one seemed to only like brine and mysis but many people have success with clams, bloodworms, etc. What fish are already in the tank?
 
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Jayden K

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Butterflies can be tricky. Especially if they have specific dietary needs. We had a copperbanded we got in a battle against aiptaisa, it did a great job, and we were going to move it to our other reef, but it died and I have no idea why as it was fat and sassy. Most new fish can be enticed to eat with live foods to at least get them past the trip stress. Live brine would be a good go to as they elicit a feeding response. We dose copepods generously to our QT system prior to and during the process, but this system is observation and feeding training only. If there are any signs of parasites or disease we move them to hospital tanks and treat accordingly.
Is it the movement? Size? What do you think makes those 2 foods best. Just trying to figure this out using the scientific method.
(Edit, there was a nerd emoji at the end but it got deleted)
 
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Jayden K

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One of the biggest challenges i wasn't able to get around was how skittish CB are. When i'd feed the tank the more aggressive feeders like Tangs would charge for the food and essentially scare the CB into hiding. Enough of those in a row and it becomes a problem.
Did you add these CB before or after the tangs. This is the 1st fish going in after the cycle. I heard if you really want 1 you should add it first.
 

vetteguy53081

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How do I take care of a copperband. It's coming in 2 weeks, already quarantined and eating. I did a fair bit of research but I want as much info and already know what to do if something goes wrong. I also know these guys like to stop eating after being shipped. All help is appreciated, sending links to forums is also helpful. I also have a longnose butterfly and a spot butterfly coming, let me know what I should prepare having.
Quarantine it even if quarantined which also an opportunity for it to eat and get used to the foods you feed
 
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Jayden K

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In my experience, you need to have plenty of grazing space for the cbb to pick at when it’s first introduced. After that you need to offer a variety of food options in the hopes of finding one. Some people try special feeders but in truth once settled the copperband is not often outcompeted but just doesn’t start eating. Once they are feeding they are usually fine, but that in of itself is the hit or miss. My last one seemed to only like brine and mysis but many people have success with clams, bloodworms, etc. What fish are already in the tank?
Just a spigiri damsel, idk how to spell but the one that eats worms and pest. It's a 125 and that damsal only eats like 4 blood worms a feed. Worst comes to worst I can throw food at one end for the damsel and spot feed the CB.
 

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I have a Copperband that I got from Marine Collectors.
I’m not sure I’d add one as the first fish after cycle though.

However I do know a lot of people struggle with this fish, I think I have had a great experience so far, being the fish was already QT and eating before it was shipped too me- I’m sure that made a massive impact.

The one I have eats as much as I feed him/her, super happy fish! If you get one, I highly recommend buying one from a reliable source.
 

vcnt

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Butterflies can be tricky. Especially if they have specific dietary needs. We had a copperbanded we got in a battle against aiptaisa, it did a great job, and we were going to move it to our other reef, but it died and I have no idea why as it was fat and sassy. Most new fish can be enticed to eat with live foods to at least get them past the trip stress. Live brine would be a good go to as they elicit a feeding response. We dose copepods generously to our QT system prior to and during the process, but this system is observation and feeding training only. If there are any signs of parasites or disease we move them to hospital tanks and treat accordingly.
if i added pods this morning, i saw a bunch of them when adding and I had pumps and lights off, about 1/2 hour later i turned them back on and now hours later i dont see any, is this okay?
 
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Jayden K

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if i added pods this morning, i saw a bunch of them when adding and I had pumps and lights off, about 1/2 hour later i turned them back on and now hours later i dont see any, is this okay?
check your rock work, or maybe sump. I know they like to hide in rocks.
 

steveschuerger

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When I got my Copperband I had a lot going my favor already. Had a healthy population of tube worms and other critters as well as a bunch of aiptasia . That said lots of pods plus if you have mari/aqua cultured live rock it should have lots of goodies in it as well. Mine eats frozen but it took 2-3 weeks . If you want it to eat frozen I recommend putting it directly in the flow of a wavemaker to entice it.
 
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Jayden K

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This may be a bad idea, that's why I'm asking here, but if I have a 30g tank that's been established for 6 months, it has plenty of aptasia, tube worms, and it only has a goby in it, could I teach it how to eat and then move it to the 150? I also have frozen phyto.
 

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Is it the movement? Size? What do you think makes those 2 foods best. Just trying to figure this out using the scientific method.
(Edit, there was a nerd emoji at the end but it got deleted)
Especially the enriched brine shrimp swim with a wavy jerky motion that attracts attention. Tigriopus also exhibit lots of jumpy jerking movements which makes them a prime target. Both need to be cultured in nutrient rich phyto to make their nutritional value the highest, but brine especially as adults are low in nutritional value unless they are “gut loaded”
 

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Did you add these CB before or after the tangs. This is the 1st fish going in after the cycle. I heard if you really want 1 you should add it first.
I added mine late as an aptasia eliminator. Because they are reef safe with caution it wasn’t in my original stocking plan.
 

Uncle99

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IMG_0236.jpeg IMG_0216.jpeg IMG_0170.jpeg I put mine in 10g observation tank for 1 week.
Fed Mysis and Brine. He/she liked PE Mysis the best as it’s bigger offering.

After zero issues in the week, he’s ready to me the group in my 180g.

He spent the day in an acclimation box, nobody seemed that interested.

He was released after lights out.

Found a quiet corner.

When lights came on nobody cared much except the sailfin tang, 6x his size.

Some flashing, some chasing, no direct attack.

2 days later, swimming with his friends.

3 weeks later and it wiped out every Aptasia over night.


IMG_0153.jpeg
 

landlubber

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Did you add these CB before or after the tangs. This is the 1st fish going in after the cycle. I heard if you really want 1 you should add it first.
I did not.
Like many that buy them I added it as a utility fish to combat aiptasia. No doubt that could have been the move that made for a better result but in a tank that is rolling into its 8th year it wasn't part of my original stock list.
 

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This may be a bad idea, that's why I'm asking here, but if I have a 30g tank that's been established for 6 months, it has plenty of aptasia, tube worms, and it only has a goby in it, could I teach it how to eat and then move it to the 150? I also have frozen phyto.
I dunno, IMO a lot of issues are solved if the fish is eating in the first place …while it might be stressful to “re-home” in home , but that tank sounds more “cozy” even if smaller and temporary …

…your tube worms will disappear in short order… Problem I had was my CBB actually had too much natural food in the tank and I had a difficult time getting him trained to commercial foods…YMMV

30g might be a lil cramped… might be worth a shot
Added: after it’s quarantined of course…maybe train it then …
 

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