Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames

The purpose of this article is to outline time periods required to properly quarantine (QT) marine corals & invertebrates. While unable to host...
By Humblefish, Nov 3, 2017 | |
  1. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor North Alabama Reef Club

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    Keeping SPS alive in a QT tank is much easier than in a DT. The biodiversity is needed to create a stable environment for the SPS in a DT. In a QT, everything should be stable because of its simplicity.
     

  2. Humblefish

    Humblefish Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Expert Contributor Moderator Emeritus

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    +1
     
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  3. Gablami

    Gablami Active Member

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    The original Burgess table states that the staghorn coral is dead, bleached and washed skeleton. This is clearly not the stony coral that we are dealing with. I don’t mean to add ambiguity to a very helpful and valuable guideline, but I think it’s worth discussing.

    Some posters state that ich can encyst on all stony coral, and others are more specific, stating that only exposed (dead) areas are vulnerable. Given that there is no data on the subject of ich encysting on live stony coral, would the experts on this thread agree that while we don’t know for certain, that it is very likely that ich cannot survive on live sps tissue?

    For a healthy frag that shows no tissue loss, I cut off the plug/glue and toss it, dip, and QT for 2 weeks. This is probably not “best practice” but for me, it’s a realistic compromise for my needs. But I’m interested to know whether this thinking is flawed.
     
  4. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor North Alabama Reef Club

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    I agree with you and doubt you will have a problem if your cut is on a healthy part of the coral and not just taking off the plug.
     
  5. Humblefish

    Humblefish Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Expert Contributor Moderator Emeritus

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    There is no evidence that tomonts can encyst upon live tissue. (Although the part about the mullet scales is concerning - but the epidermal mucous degenerated the tomonts.)

    However, when you look at how Dr. Burgess was able to get tomonts to encyst to glass, plastic, gravel, metal, wood, a mussel shell, the exoskeleton of a shrimp... That's enough diversity to make me QT any coral/invert with a hard surface.
     
  6. KingReef16

    KingReef16 Active Member Partner Member 2019

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    So I’ve made a classic rookie mistake and did not quarantine my new coral frags before putting them in the DT. They were rinsed, dipped in Coral Rx, rinsed, and them put in the DT. I only replugged 1 of them due to Aiptasia (Aiptasia X’ed it and replugged just to be sure). They’ve been in for 2 days now. Now that I realize the errors of my ways, and reading your article on time frames - my question is this - should I take the frags out of my DT and put them in a QT? I bought a 20g tank yesterday, so I can set up something very basic - not ideal - but something with a filter and flow.
     
  7. KingReef16

    KingReef16 Active Member Partner Member 2019

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    @Humblefish So I’ve made a classic rookie mistake and did not quarantine my new coral frags before putting them in the DT. They were rinsed, dipped in Coral Rx, rinsed, and them put in the DT. I only replugged 1 of them due to Aiptasia (Aiptasia X’ed it and replugged just to be sure). They’ve been in for 2 days now. Now that I realize the errors of my ways, and reading your article on time frames - my question is this - should I take the frags out of my DT and put them in a QT? I bought a 20g tank yesterday, so I can set up something very basic - not ideal - but something with a filter and flow.
     
  8. Humblefish

    Humblefish Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Expert Contributor Moderator Emeritus

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    Odds are it's already too late. Either tomonts on the corals have already begun releasing free swimmers, or you got lucky & will be fine. I would just keep a close, close eye on all your fish for evidence of trophonts (white dots).
     
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  9. KingReef16

    KingReef16 Active Member Partner Member 2019

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    Thanks so much for the reply! I really hope this doesn’t turn out to be a sad, expensive lesson. Fingers crossed!
     
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  10. Kyl

    Kyl Valuable Member R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    So here's another one: using something like a plastic critter keeper "medium" term (~76 days), in an invert / coral QT system that is housing SPS. Any worries of whatever is in the plastic affecting things over 80 days?

    I'm about to pick up a candycane pistol shrimp, but since they're so small, I don't want it going down the overflow or otherwise getting into mischief. The LFS uses them to keep their pistol shrimps easy to find in the tank come time to sell, but they don't have to worry about potential water issues as corals aren't in those fish / invert systems. I was going to put a bit of sand and some of my small rock rubble in there for it to go to town on while waiting for the fallow cycle.

    Any reason not to do this?
     
  11. MrsBugmaster

    MrsBugmaster Active Member R2R Supporter

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    I use a fish breeder net. It hangs on the side of the tank. It is a plastic frame with a mesh net basket. I do put a little sand and a couple small rocks in it also.
    fish breeder net.jpg
     
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  12. Night Reefer

    Night Reefer Active Member R2R Supporter West Palm Beach Reefer

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    Can a cleaner wrasse rid a tank with ick? I never heard of this. I was told by the local fish store to combine the wrasse and Herbtana (reef safe treatment) and it'll be gone.
     
  13. HotRocks

    HotRocks Fish Fanatic! Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Expert Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    Likely not.

    If herbtana and a cleaner Wrasse kept parasites out of reef tanks we would all use that method, as it's much easier than what it takes to maintian a parasite free DT.
     
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  14. Night Reefer

    Night Reefer Active Member R2R Supporter West Palm Beach Reefer

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    I agree just thought I was missing something.
     
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  15. Humblefish

    Humblefish Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Expert Contributor Moderator Emeritus

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    +1 A cleaner wrasse may remove surface parasites/worms, but Cryptocaryon trophonts burrow in under the epithelium (outer skin layer).
     
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  16. drstardust

    drstardust Well-Known Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award

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    That is some decidedly wrong advice. I would question advice given by this store in the future (and ask the forum, obvi ;) )

    And cleaner wrasses would go extinct in the wild due to collection demands lol
     
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  17. pdiehm

    pdiehm Valuable Member Delaware Reef Club Build Thread Contributor

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    So there's a few questions that I have. Tank is cycling, it's barebottom. From the gitgo, i'm going to have a proper CUC....starting with pods (algaebarn), nerites/ceriths from reefcleaners, and trochus from...hopefully algaebarn or reefcleaners.

    I had to originally tear out my rocks due to vermetid snails, which I'm fairly certain hitchhiked on the shell of a Trochus Snail that I got from Live Aquaria, as it was the only thing I added to the display after an acid bath of the rocks.

    If I add the pods, and snails...is it as simple as scrubbing the shells with a wire brush, adding to the tank and waiting 76 days?

    Once I transfer my fish from the 40 breeder to the display, that'll be the permanent coral/invert QT since it's powered by a 4x24 T5, and use my 20 long for a fish QT, powered by a simple LED (not very bright).

    Also, since Reefcleaners (as far as I know) does not have any fish in the system, how much of a concern is there for those inverts to be carrying something that is bad into the display? I am curious if Algae Barn has fish in their snail/pod systems...

    Edit: Per Algae Barn, all inverts are kept in fallow systems.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2018
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  18. stAlphonzo

    stAlphonzo Active Member R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    Sorry if I missed this but do you remove the frag from the original plug during this process and put it on a new plug? I've read this whole post but I've read several others at the same time so they're all blending together. Some claim it's important and others don't mention....

    It seems like with a dip and the 75 days, that might not be needed.
     
  19. HotRocks

    HotRocks Fish Fanatic! Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Expert Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    Same rock or plug is fine to use. As long as it was fish less for 76 days.
     
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  20. stAlphonzo

    stAlphonzo Active Member R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    So, just to probe this one a little further because I might be an oddball I'm planning for my first additions to be coral. If I don't plan to add fish for 76 days after my last coral addition then it sounds like I'll be fine doing a Bayer and/or CoralRX (I've read of some doing both for safety) then adding straight to the tank?

    That should take care if coral pests and bugs and well as ich/velvet?

    It still feels risky, I guess, but I'm always willing to stand on the side of science.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2018
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