Current Quarantine Protocol

[huthain]

Apologies Jay if I am to use a sponge filter would I have to remove it after copper and add a new one for the prazi course? Would it be the same sponge filter through the whole qt process?

Let us know if you having any questions as you go through the process

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Apologies Jay if I am to use a sponge filter would I have to remove it after copper and add a new one for the prazi course? Would it be the same sponge filter through the whole qt process?

Using the same sponge is fine, in fact, a sponge filter that’s been operating longer has more beneficial bacteria in it will work better.

What I do is to keep a sponge filter running in the sump or the main tank in order to colonize it with the proper bacteria prior to moving it to the quarantine tank for use there. Remember, a new sponge filter doesn’t have the needed beneficial bacteria in it.

 

[huthain]

Using the same sponge is fine, in fact, a sponge filter that’s been operating longer has more beneficial bacteria in it will work better.

What I do is to keep a sponge filter running in the sump or the main tank in order to colonize it with the proper bacteria prior to moving it to the quarantine tank for use there. Remember, a new sponge filter doesn’t have the needed beneficial bacteria in it.

Jay one of the fish that im quarantining is a massive diamond goby and he loves his sand.

I know you said non calcaureus sand should be used but I cant find anything here of that sort.
However I do have spare bags of aquarium sand in hand that im not using, can I use this during copper in a tupperware or anything else and then toss it and use new sand during prazi and then toss it? Or is there some other reason aquarium sand shouldn't be used?

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Jay one of the fish that im quarantining is a massive diamond goby and he loves his sand.

I know you said non calcaureus sand should be used but I cant find anything here of that sort.
However I do have spare bags of aquarium sand in hand that im not using, can I use this during copper in a tupperware or anything else and then toss it and use new sand during prazi and then toss it? Or is there some other reason aquarium sand shouldn't be used?

Some aquarium sand is calcium based - like coral sand from Carib Sea. That shouldn’t be used. Other sand, for freshwater aquarium’s is safe. What brand label is on the bags?

 

[huthain]

Some aquarium sand is calcium based - like coral sand from Carib Sea. That shouldn’t be used. Other sand, for freshwater aquarium’s is safe. What brand label is on the bags?

Hi Jay sorry work kicked my butt today and wasn't able to reply. Here is what I found available in store
https://www.adana.co.jp/en/contents/products/na_substrate/detail03.htmlIn the above theres 2 options for sand laplata and colorado
And 3rd options is this
https://www.adana.co.jp/en/contents/products/na_substrate/detail04.html
Based on Gemini none of these are calcium based will these work? And would i be able to just fill the whole bottom? Most importantly given the goby will ingest these will they cause him any harm?

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Hi Jay sorry work kicked my butt today and wasn't able to reply. Here is what I found available in store
https://www.adana.co.jp/en/contents/products/na_substrate/detail03.htmlIn the above theres 2 options for sand laplata and colorado
And 3rd options is this
https://www.adana.co.jp/en/contents/products/na_substrate/detail04.html
Based on Gemini none of these are calcium based will these work? And would i be able to just fill the whole bottom? Most importantly given the goby will ingest these will they cause him any harm?

The La Plata sand seems the best choice - it is inert, and the right size. The Aqua Gravel seems too large. The Colorado Sand, being reddish, might have iron in it.

Any of the Aquarium "silica sands" will work as well.

You do not need to cover the entire tank bottom, many people just put a layer of sand in a plastic tray at the bottom of the tank.

 

[huthain]

The La Plata sand seems the best choice - it is inert, and the right size. The Aqua Gravel seems too large. The Colorado Sand, being reddish, might have iron in it.

Any of the Aquarium "silica sands" will work as well.

You do not need to cover the entire tank bottom, many people just put a layer of sand in a plastic tray at the bottom of the tank.

Ok awesome and I assume if its silica sand I can keep the sand during the whole duration of the treatment? Copper, prazi and observation

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Ok awesome and I assume if its silica sand I can keep the sand during the whole duration of the treatment? Copper, prazi and observation

Yes - there is no contraindication with silica sand in the process. Just be aware that some "silica sand" for general construction use (like you might buy at a home improvement store) could be very dusty and could have contaminants. Always use washed sand sold for aquarium use.

 

[huthain]

Yes - there is no contraindication with silica sand in the process. Just be aware that some "silica sand" for general construction use (like you might buy at a home improvement store) could be very dusty and could have contaminants. Always use washed sand sold for aquarium use.

Great ill buy the laplata and get it rinsed properly! Sorry to say it but youll likely hear from me soon again, im expecting to start the quarantining process once my new tank arrives. With the strait of hormuz situation theres been too many delays but they've said a month give or take

 

[huthain]

Jay ive asked so many questions already, so to bot bother you over the course of the last week ive been keeping my questions on the side to collect a few and shoot them out together to respect your time :) so here it comes:

Feeding - anything goes? Pellets, nori and frozen? Is it ok to soak my food on selcon?

How often do you water change i know you do a small water change between prazi doses what about during the 30 days copper?

Copper - 2 questions here, one is do i target to get copper power to 2.25 with any and every fish during the first day? Or specific fish should I ease them into it over a period of time?
2nd question can I prepare the water for the fish ahead of introducing them with copper and drip acclimate them? This way I know for certain the copper is where it needs to be rather than playing scientist with the fish in it. If so do I take my time with drip go slow?

Lastly method number 3, is a total of 30 something days, dont tomonts have a 60 or 70 day life cycle will these 30 days be safe enough to introduce the fish in an aquarium that quick?

Thanks

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Jay ive asked so many questions already, so to bot bother you over the course of the last week ive been keeping my questions on the side to collect a few and shoot them out together to respect your time :) so here it comes:

Feeding - anything goes? Pellets, nori and frozen? Is it ok to soak my food on selcon?

How often do you water change i know you do a small water change between prazi doses what about during the 30 days copper?

Copper - 2 questions here, one is do i target to get copper power to 2.25 with any and every fish during the first day? Or specific fish should I ease them into it over a period of time?
2nd question can I prepare the water for the fish ahead of introducing them with copper and drip acclimate them? This way I know for certain the copper is where it needs to be rather than playing scientist with the fish in it. If so do I take my time with drip go slow?

Lastly method number 3, is a total of 30 something days, dont tomonts have a 60 or 70 day life cycle will these 30 days be safe enough to introduce the fish in an aquarium that quick?

Thanks

Feeding needs to be appropriate for the type and number of fish, that's too specific to give generalizations. You need to ensure that uneaten food is removed promptly, and monitor the ammonia levels. I don't use Selcon in a QT. Remember, it soaks out of the food as fast as it soaked in, and with a small QT, that can foul the water. Besides, the HUFA nutrients in provides are more of a long term care issue.

You need to change the water to manage ammonia, otherwise, the only water change needed is to lower the copper level at the end of the 30 days (down to at least half dose). Then, it is often prudent to do a 25% water change between prazi doses, especially if using prazipro.

If you are using coppersafe or copper power, there is no need to ramp up slowly - you just need to reach an accurate full dose using a Hanna HR checker. Ionic copper usually needs a slow ramp up time, especially with dwarf angelfish.

I prefer to settle new fish into the QT for 48 hours or so, and then raise the copper level to 2.25 ppm. Fish can be placed directly into coppersafe treated water, dealers do that all of the time.

The life cycle for ich is as short as 45 days, and will it is generally thought that copper doesn't kill the resting stage (tomonts) a 30 days copper treatment is sufficient to render them non-infective.

 

[huthain]

Feeding needs to be appropriate for the type and number of fish, that's too specific to give generalizations. You need to ensure that uneaten food is removed promptly, and monitor the ammonia levels. I don't use Selcon in a QT. Remember, it soaks out of the food as fast as it soaked in, and with a small QT, that can foul the water. Besides, the HUFA nutrients in provides are more of a long term care issue.

You need to change the water to manage ammonia, otherwise, the only water change needed is to lower the copper level at the end of the 30 days (down to at least half dose). Then, it is often prudent to do a 25% water change between prazi doses, especially if using prazipro.

If you are using coppersafe or copper power, there is no need to ramp up slowly - you just need to reach an accurate full dose using a Hanna HR checker. Ionic copper usually needs a slow ramp up time, especially with dwarf angelfish.

I prefer to settle new fish into the QT for 48 hours or so, and then raise the copper level to 2.25 ppm. Fish can be placed directly into coppersafe treated water, dealers do that all of the time.

The life cycle for ich is as short as 45 days, and will it is generally thought that copper doesn't kill the resting stage (tomonts) a 30 days copper treatment is sufficient to render them non-infective.

Ok so it should be absolutely safe to move the fish in 35 days of treatment with option 3 to the main DT

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Ok so it should be absolutely safe to move the fish in 35 days of treatment with option 3 to the main DT

No - nothing is "absolute" when it comes to treating fish diseases. Option 1 is the safest approach, but non-target diseases can still slip through. Option 3 was developed because people wanted to use a faster protcol without too much of a drop in efficacy.

 

[huthain]

Hey Jay ive set up the quarantine tank fix expected to get in there roughly 3 weeks from now. Would live to hear your thoughts on what im doing wrong or right! Picture plus description following:

1x HOB seachem filter will include pre seeded matrix. Based on the study by humble fish matrix doesn't leech copper. These will likely be a one time use though and ill toss if out after each QT and use a new preseeded one (is there a way to clean and re use)
2x pre seeded sponge filters same will toss out after each QT and get a new one seeded while these are running (is there a way to clean and reuse?
1x inkbird controller connected to a chiller and an appropriately sized heater
1x wavemaker that will be programmed to run gently throughout the day and off at night
1x seachem alert
1x aquarium lid
While it does measure at 95 cm. Ive blocked off roughly 15cm of it for heaters and pumps for the chiller.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Hey Jay ive set up the quarantine tank fix expected to get in there roughly 3 weeks from now. Would live to hear your thoughts on what im doing wrong or right! Picture plus description following:

1x HOB seachem filter will include pre seeded matrix. Based on the study by humble fish matrix doesn't leech copper. These will likely be a one time use though and ill toss if out after each QT and use a new preseeded one (is there a way to clean and re use)
2x pre seeded sponge filters same will toss out after each QT and get a new one seeded while these are running (is there a way to clean and reuse?
1x inkbird controller connected to a chiller and an appropriately sized heater
1x wavemaker that will be programmed to run gently throughout the day and off at night
1x seachem alert
1x aquarium lid
While it does measure at 95 cm. Ive blocked off roughly 15cm of it for heaters and pumps for the chiller.

That should work fine. However, no need to toss out the media after quarantine run - it doesn’t absorb copper and it doesn’t have any diseases in it that the fish didn’t have when they left quarantine (grin).

I’d add an air pump and stone for aeration, especially if the lid is solid - you need good gas exchange.

 

[huthain]

That should work fine. However, no need to toss out the media after quarantine run - it doesn’t absorb copper and it doesn’t have any diseases in it that the fish didn’t have when they left quarantine (grin).

I’d add an air pump and stone for aeration, especially if the lid is solid - you need good gas exchange.

Lid is eggcrates with a net zip tied to it so plenty of aeration, however I do have 2 filter sponges too theyre running by a massive air pump i think that should cover aeration.

My QT will be emptied completely once each batch is done and ill use freshly made saltwater however there will be times where the tank may stay empty for days or weeks. Do I clean the media with rodi water let it dry and toss it back in my display to re seed again.

I have 2 pairs or everything meaning when one media is being used another is being seeded in my tank.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Lid is eggcrates with a net zip tied to it so plenty of aeration, however I do have 2 filter sponges too theyre running by a massive air pump i think that should cover aeration.

My QT will be emptied completely once each batch is done and ill use freshly made saltwater however there will be times where the tank may stay empty for days or weeks. Do I clean the media with rodi water let it dry and toss it back in my display to re seed again.

I have 2 pairs or everything meaning when one media is being used another is being seeded in my tank.

Yes - sponge filters serve as aerators.

The only time I clean/sterilize filter media in a QT is in the rare case where fish in it died from unknown reasons and they did not get moved to the DT. THEN it is prudent to sterilize the whole tank.

 

[huthain]

Yes - sponge filters serve as aerators.

The only time I clean/sterilize filter media in a QT is in the rare case where fish in it died from unknown reasons and they did not get moved to the DT. THEN it is prudent to sterilize the whole tank.

So youre saying its safe to pop it back to the DT to keep its seed withiut any rinsing even though its been exposed to medication like prazipro and the same can be said for sponge filters?

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

So youre saying its safe to pop it back to the DT to keep its seed withiut any rinsing even though its been exposed to medication like prazipro and the same can be said for sponge filters?

No - I meant you don’t need to sterilize it for future uses in the QT. Many people think they need to strip and clean their QT after every run, but that is needed only in special cases.

You CAN reuse sponge in the DT, but you need to rinse it very well in clean seawater.

 

[cba191]

who makes a good powdered prazi? I can only find liquid.