Current Quarantine Protocol

[huthain]

Apologies Jay if I am to use a sponge filter would I have to remove it after copper and add a new one for the prazi course? Would it be the same sponge filter through the whole qt process?

Let us know if you having any questions as you go through the process

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Apologies Jay if I am to use a sponge filter would I have to remove it after copper and add a new one for the prazi course? Would it be the same sponge filter through the whole qt process?

Using the same sponge is fine, in fact, a sponge filter that’s been operating longer has more beneficial bacteria in it will work better.

What I do is to keep a sponge filter running in the sump or the main tank in order to colonize it with the proper bacteria prior to moving it to the quarantine tank for use there. Remember, a new sponge filter doesn’t have the needed beneficial bacteria in it.

 

[huthain]

Using the same sponge is fine, in fact, a sponge filter that’s been operating longer has more beneficial bacteria in it will work better.

What I do is to keep a sponge filter running in the sump or the main tank in order to colonize it with the proper bacteria prior to moving it to the quarantine tank for use there. Remember, a new sponge filter doesn’t have the needed beneficial bacteria in it.

Jay one of the fish that im quarantining is a massive diamond goby and he loves his sand.

I know you said non calcaureus sand should be used but I cant find anything here of that sort.
However I do have spare bags of aquarium sand in hand that im not using, can I use this during copper in a tupperware or anything else and then toss it and use new sand during prazi and then toss it? Or is there some other reason aquarium sand shouldn't be used?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Jay one of the fish that im quarantining is a massive diamond goby and he loves his sand.

I know you said non calcaureus sand should be used but I cant find anything here of that sort.
However I do have spare bags of aquarium sand in hand that im not using, can I use this during copper in a tupperware or anything else and then toss it and use new sand during prazi and then toss it? Or is there some other reason aquarium sand shouldn't be used?

Some aquarium sand is calcium based - like coral sand from Carib Sea. That shouldn’t be used. Other sand, for freshwater aquarium’s is safe. What brand label is on the bags?

 

[huthain]

Some aquarium sand is calcium based - like coral sand from Carib Sea. That shouldn’t be used. Other sand, for freshwater aquarium’s is safe. What brand label is on the bags?

Hi Jay sorry work kicked my butt today and wasn't able to reply. Here is what I found available in store

Cosmetic Sand | ADA - PRODUCT - SUBSTRATE SYSTEM

ADA designs and develops products of aquarium, lighting and CO2 supply system to propose Nature Aquarium where tropical fish swimming in densely grown aquatic plants.

www.adana.co.jp

In the above theres 2 options for sand laplata and colorado
And 3rd options is this

Aqua Gravel | ADA - PRODUCT - SUBSTRATE SYSTEM

ADA designs and develops products of aquarium, lighting and CO2 supply system to propose Nature Aquarium where tropical fish swimming in densely grown aquatic plants.

www.adana.co.jp

Based on Gemini none of these are calcium based will these work? And would i be able to just fill the whole bottom? Most importantly given the goby will ingest these will they cause him any harm?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hi Jay sorry work kicked my butt today and wasn't able to reply. Here is what I found available in store

Cosmetic Sand | ADA - PRODUCT - SUBSTRATE SYSTEM

ADA designs and develops products of aquarium, lighting and CO2 supply system to propose Nature Aquarium where tropical fish swimming in densely grown aquatic plants.

www.adana.co.jp

In the above theres 2 options for sand laplata and colorado
And 3rd options is this

Aqua Gravel | ADA - PRODUCT - SUBSTRATE SYSTEM

ADA designs and develops products of aquarium, lighting and CO2 supply system to propose Nature Aquarium where tropical fish swimming in densely grown aquatic plants.

www.adana.co.jp

Based on Gemini none of these are calcium based will these work? And would i be able to just fill the whole bottom? Most importantly given the goby will ingest these will they cause him any harm?

The La Plata sand seems the best choice - it is inert, and the right size. The Aqua Gravel seems too large. The Colorado Sand, being reddish, might have iron in it.

Any of the Aquarium "silica sands" will work as well.

You do not need to cover the entire tank bottom, many people just put a layer of sand in a plastic tray at the bottom of the tank.

 

[huthain]

The La Plata sand seems the best choice - it is inert, and the right size. The Aqua Gravel seems too large. The Colorado Sand, being reddish, might have iron in it.

Any of the Aquarium "silica sands" will work as well.

You do not need to cover the entire tank bottom, many people just put a layer of sand in a plastic tray at the bottom of the tank.

Ok awesome and I assume if its silica sand I can keep the sand during the whole duration of the treatment? Copper, prazi and observation

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Ok awesome and I assume if its silica sand I can keep the sand during the whole duration of the treatment? Copper, prazi and observation

Yes - there is no contraindication with silica sand in the process. Just be aware that some "silica sand" for general construction use (like you might buy at a home improvement store) could be very dusty and could have contaminants. Always use washed sand sold for aquarium use.

 

[huthain]

Yes - there is no contraindication with silica sand in the process. Just be aware that some "silica sand" for general construction use (like you might buy at a home improvement store) could be very dusty and could have contaminants. Always use washed sand sold for aquarium use.

Great ill buy the laplata and get it rinsed properly! Sorry to say it but youll likely hear from me soon again, im expecting to start the quarantining process once my new tank arrives. With the strait of hormuz situation theres been too many delays but they've said a month give or take

 

[huthain]

Jay ive asked so many questions already, so to bot bother you over the course of the last week ive been keeping my questions on the side to collect a few and shoot them out together to respect your time :) so here it comes:

Feeding - anything goes? Pellets, nori and frozen? Is it ok to soak my food on selcon?

How often do you water change i know you do a small water change between prazi doses what about during the 30 days copper?

Copper - 2 questions here, one is do i target to get copper power to 2.25 with any and every fish during the first day? Or specific fish should I ease them into it over a period of time?
2nd question can I prepare the water for the fish ahead of introducing them with copper and drip acclimate them? This way I know for certain the copper is where it needs to be rather than playing scientist with the fish in it. If so do I take my time with drip go slow?

Lastly method number 3, is a total of 30 something days, dont tomonts have a 60 or 70 day life cycle will these 30 days be safe enough to introduce the fish in an aquarium that quick?

Thanks

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Jay ive asked so many questions already, so to bot bother you over the course of the last week ive been keeping my questions on the side to collect a few and shoot them out together to respect your time :) so here it comes:

Feeding - anything goes? Pellets, nori and frozen? Is it ok to soak my food on selcon?

How often do you water change i know you do a small water change between prazi doses what about during the 30 days copper?

Copper - 2 questions here, one is do i target to get copper power to 2.25 with any and every fish during the first day? Or specific fish should I ease them into it over a period of time?
2nd question can I prepare the water for the fish ahead of introducing them with copper and drip acclimate them? This way I know for certain the copper is where it needs to be rather than playing scientist with the fish in it. If so do I take my time with drip go slow?

Lastly method number 3, is a total of 30 something days, dont tomonts have a 60 or 70 day life cycle will these 30 days be safe enough to introduce the fish in an aquarium that quick?

Thanks

Feeding needs to be appropriate for the type and number of fish, that's too specific to give generalizations. You need to ensure that uneaten food is removed promptly, and monitor the ammonia levels. I don't use Selcon in a QT. Remember, it soaks out of the food as fast as it soaked in, and with a small QT, that can foul the water. Besides, the HUFA nutrients in provides are more of a long term care issue.

You need to change the water to manage ammonia, otherwise, the only water change needed is to lower the copper level at the end of the 30 days (down to at least half dose). Then, it is often prudent to do a 25% water change between prazi doses, especially if using prazipro.

If you are using coppersafe or copper power, there is no need to ramp up slowly - you just need to reach an accurate full dose using a Hanna HR checker. Ionic copper usually needs a slow ramp up time, especially with dwarf angelfish.

I prefer to settle new fish into the QT for 48 hours or so, and then raise the copper level to 2.25 ppm. Fish can be placed directly into coppersafe treated water, dealers do that all of the time.

The life cycle for ich is as short as 45 days, and will it is generally thought that copper doesn't kill the resting stage (tomonts) a 30 days copper treatment is sufficient to render them non-infective.

 

[huthain]

Feeding needs to be appropriate for the type and number of fish, that's too specific to give generalizations. You need to ensure that uneaten food is removed promptly, and monitor the ammonia levels. I don't use Selcon in a QT. Remember, it soaks out of the food as fast as it soaked in, and with a small QT, that can foul the water. Besides, the HUFA nutrients in provides are more of a long term care issue.

You need to change the water to manage ammonia, otherwise, the only water change needed is to lower the copper level at the end of the 30 days (down to at least half dose). Then, it is often prudent to do a 25% water change between prazi doses, especially if using prazipro.

If you are using coppersafe or copper power, there is no need to ramp up slowly - you just need to reach an accurate full dose using a Hanna HR checker. Ionic copper usually needs a slow ramp up time, especially with dwarf angelfish.

I prefer to settle new fish into the QT for 48 hours or so, and then raise the copper level to 2.25 ppm. Fish can be placed directly into coppersafe treated water, dealers do that all of the time.

The life cycle for ich is as short as 45 days, and will it is generally thought that copper doesn't kill the resting stage (tomonts) a 30 days copper treatment is sufficient to render them non-infective.

Ok so it should be absolutely safe to move the fish in 35 days of treatment with option 3 to the main DT

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Ok so it should be absolutely safe to move the fish in 35 days of treatment with option 3 to the main DT

No - nothing is "absolute" when it comes to treating fish diseases. Option 1 is the safest approach, but non-target diseases can still slip through. Option 3 was developed because people wanted to use a faster protcol without too much of a drop in efficacy.