Current USA Orbit Marine ?

Dpate

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While I am totally guilty of this I totally agree. You will either need to replace due to failure or upgrading. Check out Reef Breeders Photon V2+. I would do a black box LED before I did a Current USA LED for a reef tank. Another option is vuying a used light. I have seen Gen 2 Radions for $200.

Agreed, even the cheapest black box packs WAY more punch!
 

DesertReefT4r

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Just so you know, I’m running an aquatic life hybrid fixture with a radion gen four and two coral plus and two actinics on a 24x24x24 cube and here are the results!
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Well yeah Gen 4 Radions and T5s. Can we say best lighting combo other than MH T5. Nice tank!
 

Dpate

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Just so you know, I do aquarium maintenance for a living and have seen them all!
Again and for the last time, buy cheap/ buy twice!
 

Dpate

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I'm running twin 24" inch current USA over a 15 gallon tank. At only around 12" deep I can grow any LPS or soft. And I totally disagree that you'll want sps eventually. I've never had an interest in sticks and probably never will. I think [emoji39].
To each his own.
 

Mark_C

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Speaking from ownership experience. No ego, no affiliation.

I used Current USA Orbit Marines, the old version (2013), over a 40b a few years back.
I was keeping mostly softies with a few acro.
For the price it worked well enough, there was some moderate zoa/paly growth, mild to moderate LPS (torch) growth, and some minimal acro growth (none died, they just grew slowly).
About 6 months later, as budget permitted, I added a second Current USA.
Softie growth went overboard, LPS spawned numerous heads, acros began growing at moderate rate.
So the light was a bit underpowered at the time. One kept things alive and moving slow, two kicked things into growing gear.

I had those two units running for over a year with good results, no mechanical problems, don't recall ever having to reprogram.
May have been the easiest lights I owned as I didn't have to obsess over details too much.

I'm sure the 2018 model of the USA is improved.
I'd think that in a 25g tank, soft corals only, one light should do fine.
It may not add killer growth, but will keep corals alive and growing slowly.
And in a 25g it may do well enough or even exceed expectations.

I didn't start with a budget that had room for $300-$600 for lights, and since my Current USAs I've had numerous tanks with Mazzaras (Maxxspect and Razors), Radions, and AIs. And yes, they are better than the Currents.

BUT!...

The Currents kept things alive and growing early on in the hobby until I developed a passion for it and was willing to invest more.
Plus, if you stay in the hobby they can be saved and reused down the road as excellent refugium lights for your upgraded system. :)
 
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John Neuzil

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Sorry kind of a knee jerk reaction but I will say, if you need two 24 in orbits to keep softies alive that’s not sayin much for the fixture in question.
Now that's not what I said now is it. Sounds like dpate just hates current.
 

Sarah24!

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Just so you know, I’m running an aquatic life hybrid fixture with a radion gen four and two coral plus and two actinics on a 24x24x24 cube and here are the results!
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Hello,

Okay so love these pics and he is using radions 800 lights with hybrids. The same with @jda most people hammer the current marine pros yet they have not even used them (or experimented with them. So @jda and @Dpate (I mean this very honest and very very professional) what is the problem with current usa lights. You only say they are bad convince me. Because my tank is taller than most it’s 34 inches tall and using ly-cor 1500 I average 200 par on the sand. M

My tank is 240 gallons, and a tad over a year old so, since I have a Maximus clam down at 24 inches thriving with two current marine pros, and growing a mixed tank with mostly sps and lps how do these lights not compare to others? Again I’m making this argument because clearly I have amazing success with them so here are pics what’s wrong with the coral? My sps have better color than those who have been running mh and radions.

Now to be fair yes I have lost some sps, but not do to my lights, it was from other factors. Have I made mistakes yes, are all these lights good lights yes. They are not cheap lights by the way lol. They were actually more expensive than radions for the 72 inch version, and have substantial less shading than traditional puck style leds.

To the op here is what corals look like under current usa orbit marine pros 4114. Also these pics are taking with an iPhone and it hates my lights when on blue.

Again I value the opinions and each have their own which I truly respect. But claiming the lights can’t grow sps or you will regret them isn’t exactly being fair. To be honest yes some of their lights just like other companies probably made a bad light. But the marine pros 4114, are amazing lights and will easily run in the same category as hydras and Ecotech.
I also find it very noteworthy that if these lights are so grand and truly amazing, (can’t speak for east coast places) but why do most aquariums use current over radions on and they also use the mars aquas? Their tanks look amazing and they grow sps and mixed reef tanks all day long. I guess maybe explain why, what makes them bad? I’m totally willing to listen, if it’s an honest and non biased. I’m not saying you have to like them or switch nor does the op, I just want to know why have you labeled them terrible lights not worth it, cheap, won’t grow anything but softies and some lps etc. (using that as a catch all not as per quote.)

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jda

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We have been through this before. I have tested these lights and have no idea where you get the numbers that you get. If you are going to discount my experience and opinions, then at least get it right and not say stuff like I have no experience.

Some of you are mixing facts here. A single $99 dollar light is what the OP suggested, not multiples or older/different models and not the pros. Nobody on the planet is going to be able to get 200 PAR on the sand of a 34 inch deep tank with a single unit of this light. It is just not possible. If the post was about lining up multiples or finding the more powerful units, then sure... but it was about having a $100 budget. If anybody wants to accuse me of having an agenda, then fine, but at least I answered the question as it was asked without any false equivalencies to different units, different number of units or the like.
 

Foothill Corals

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@jda , @Sarah24!

I am pretty sure BRS found a problem with the ly-cor under water readings when they did a video comparing par meters. The manufacture fixed the issue after BRS brought it to their attention (amazing after being used by scientists for years that it was BRS that found the issue not them) Maybe that is why you two have a discrepancy with your par readings.

It seams like the apogee is the standard that most aquarists use now so unless it is apogee vs apogee it may not mean much. Since some meters use different conversion factotors on different versions of their software.
 
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Sarah24!

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Hello,

So there seems to be frustration here in what or how things being sad. In my post @jda i said to be honest and professional it was not a personal attack. Further more testing in lab environments and testing lights in general will vary based on how the experiment is set up and how the tester conducts said experiment. You saying that it’s impossible is gross exaggeration. If these lights are so crappy as you claim which you have, then explain why sps, and a Maximus clam donas well as they do? The clam is 24 inches down and getting plenty of light so clearly it’s not a lack of light.

All of my testing that I have done was when I attended university of Washington. In our lab experiments yes we caliberated them several times per day. We had others use the same par meter and took the average of three tests. It wasn’t a simple look I’m at home and having fun. The problem is you claim they are terrible but you simply can’t say why. If you have experience, then what experience do you have with said lights. Since you can’t stand them, why on earth would you experiemnt with them in the first place?

I never said all of them aka current usa lights were fabulous. As a point of fact I have said several times that the ic loop version and first version lights probably wouldn’t do great with sps or clams. The model version 4114 that has a 60 degree lens is much more concentrated that a 90 or 120 but I’m sure your aware of that. You can also account for critical angel, sin/cos of the angel of light, and of course turning off the wave makers. In my experience nothing is impossible, the lights I am speaking of have been consistently underrated. Again if they are soooo crappy and it’s impossible as you stated how is my coral growing in my tank which I have shown? I’m pretty sure it’s not based on luck.

So again as you stated make sure you get all facts as well because your missing several of them as well. At no time that I have come across (the ones I’m active on with you) you just say they are crappy buy something else?) well which ones are crappy, why are they crappy. Sorry to say but there really isn’t much difference between Ecotech, kessill, current and other led manufacturers. Most of them get there leds from the same manufacturer.

Yes there is mixed reviews between mh t5 and leds on what’s best and experimental with all of them. Not once have I said leds or better or this or that. I have said because they are living animals, that drastic changes in thier environment could have negative consequences, yet could have positive ones also.

In addition to experience, granted yes I don’t know, but you don’t have any idea of mine either. In sense I have way way too much time in lab, and hoping that I do much less of it in the future lol. Based on your comments and posts, you say current usa can’t grow corals you will be unhappy get this or that etc. Well my tank is 13 months old using these crappy lights. So maybe the crappy lights grow coral just as good or better than the exotic Ecotech, or who knows what. At no time did I say you had to change your opinion or can’t voice it. But when you have, you haven’t really given a reason other than they are crappy, (in the posts that I have seen, you may have others that I haven’t seen or been part of).

As far as we have been over this? What did we go over, I have not had any such debate or even conversation in detail about it with you. So when you lay it out and want facts I guess it goes both ways, or am I missing something?

@Foothill Corals yes your correct on that information, I was only aware of certain models. We used several of the ly-cor 1500 data logger so we could log information and if memory serves me correctly we used the 190 quantum sensor and then moved it to give it different angels, where we have found the critical angel as well. In double checking or work we also in conjunction used the light meter 250a from ly-cor as well where we have to calibrate them.

But you correct, that they did have some sensors that were off but I was made aware of that with the ones we had, I was a student st the time lol why would they tell me. Knowing my professors they probably knew and laughed at us wondering why nothing worked or came out as predicted. I have only usd an apogee once which my local aquarium had. I have not used that one in my tank, but did use the same procedure on my tank as well. Did they vary yes but not by a lot, or enough to warranty a re test or that we had faulty equipment.

The point is, we all have our opinions about anything in this hobby. But to be honest, telling Someone their light is crappy (even if honest) doesn’t really help. So what does help? I don’t know maybe some positive reinforcement and ways to make what they have work and or how to supplement something into that to make it better. It’s easy so say your light is crappy go buy an 800 dollar Ecotech problem solved. Most people don’t have 800 dollars times how many they need to do that, even if it’s hydra, t5, etc etc, they are all about the same price.

Another aspect is if these silly expensive lights are sooooo perfect, why don’t aquariums use them? I have yet to see any major one (well on the west coast and only been to one on the east) use them? Their tanks are amazing and much larger than what we have (mostly). They use current usa they use Chinese black boxes, mars aqua etc and mh and some t5. It’s sooo random spin a wheel and pick something in all honesty. Some people are not as fortunate as others and let’s be honest my lights are 809 each. Did I pay that much (no) I was asked to test them, and they were donated to me by current. (No I’m not a sponsor, no I don’t work with them, and yes at the time I was a student doing my thesis). Do I think they are thee absolute best brand no I don’t, do I believe they make good stuff yes. I have had tremendous success with the items I have yes.

For my tank being 13 months old total I have tremendous growth. I have pics posted here showing, even in my thread you can see where they were tiny little guys and now they are five times the size or more. Have I killed some yes, but who hasn’t. For the record I have never said they are the best and all that. I have only said they are not crappy, they will grow coral. Ripping all the lights off and spending 800 plus does nothing but deplete ones bank account. If they want to great it’s their money, but it doesn’t mean it will solve their problem. It very easily could, and very easily could give them a whole new set of probelms.

Again @jda I clearly stated to be honest and professional, I said that so one would not take it personally. It was never meant to be personal, I was meant to be professional and when one is professional they are asking, if these lights are so crappy and won’t grow well why? What are the reasons, anybody can say they are crappy or great. That’s all great but can you clearly explain why they crappy? Just because they are not name brand and 800 dollars doesn’t automatically label them crappy. Other have also stated they are crappy when we spoke they had zero experience, had never owned one, they say oh just buy a radion. Have you seen how many people have issues with them, or others? Chances are most companies are going to have probelms it’s actually normal.

Other shows pics of their hybrid radion and t5 combo and my forest fire digi looks the same and I use crappy lights. So I’m not sure how my coral grows, but pretty sure it’s not the lights. These pics are taking with my crappy iPhone with normal lighting. This is not solid blues as for the point my cool whites are about 40% and blues at 100.

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jda

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So should I post photos of my tanks under totally different lights than the OP asked about? Would that be helpful?

Anybody besides me have any opinions on the 18w $99 Orbit? The thing was barely over 100 PAR just under the water with an Apogee 510.
 

dbj180

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After reading the very educated book. I would like to add that I have two 48" lights on my 180. They are only doubled up in the center two feet of the tank but my Duncan's have four new heads growing in less than two months. My hammer and frogspawn seem to like them too. Thanks to everybody for the good read. [emoji3]
 

DSC reef

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So should I post photos of my tanks under totally different lights than the OP asked about? Would that be helpful?

Anybody besides me have any opinions on the 18w $99 Orbit? The thing was barely over 100 PAR just under the water with an Apogee 510.
We had the original marine orbit and it was just enough (barely) on my wife's 13.5 nano. A very shallow tank. I wasn't a beta tester either so no bias here;) It kinda worked but I don't recommend to others when there is so many options out there that probably cost less. We had a 48" on a 55 which was ok but hardly any growth until we switched it out for a 4 bulb T5. Tried twice and wasn't impressed. If someone is on a budget I'd recommend a black box if they want led. The current lights kept things alive but colors and growth were not that great. We kept a BTA under them and while they lived they lost a lot of vibrance. Another point is the OP has made a thread about a clam in the 25 gallon so that also means he would need much more light than the current marine orbit can produce, especially the one he was looking at.
 
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Sarah24!

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Hello,

These points are well noted, @jda but doesn’t mean all current lights are crappy. His tank is 25 gallons total which is pretty smal and wants softies that don’t need lots of light. They would support a bubble tip anomonie but I wouldn’t suggest one till the tank is over s year old. Most softies don’t need much par, the one on amazon is not the original marine orbit that (honestly was crappy). It’s a similar version of the ic loop. This is 100% accurate because it links into the loop controller which they have the hub manifold and do not work the the dual ramp timer. So this isn’t the orginal marine orbit. Now would I suggest it on a 55 or larger no. According to current which had to state the bare minimum for legal reasons shows at 18-21 inches it averages 100-115. Which that is deeper than his nano 25, so at 15 inches roughly it’s 130-160. How is this not enough for a soft nano tank 25 gallons? Was this the light you tested lol since the lights I have or discontinued now, and the ones before it as well or disconnected and everything links to the newer loop system.

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jda

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I measured 10-14 PAR at the bottom of a 10g tank with the 18w version. ...I am not selling the product, have no skin in this game and do not care if anybody buys one. Buy what you want. Use some common sense... no other 18w light can come close to the numbers that current advertises, so if you think that they have magic diodes or have figured out how to get more output than anybody else can, then get one. ...just don't be disappointed if you get the same results as everybody else who doubled up on the more powerful or expensive units or just got rid of them.
 

Dpate

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I have absolutely nothing against orbit lights, it’s just that in the long run, op will most certainly want to step up to more difficult corals, at which point, OP realize they will need stronger lights. This is the only reason I state again,
Buy cheap, buy twice
 

Sarah24!

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I measured 10-14 PAR at the bottom of a 10g tank with the 18w version. ...I am not selling the product, have no skin in this game and do not care if anybody buys one. Buy what you want. Use some common sense... no other 18w light can come close to the numbers that current advertises, so if you think that they have magic diodes or have figured out how to get more output than anybody else can, then get one. ...just don't be disappointed if you get the same results as everybody else who doubled up on the more powerful or expensive units or just got rid of them.

Hello,

Not sure how else to put this except the light he is looking is not same one you tested etc which was the original orbit was an 18w light (from my understanding) Yes that one was crappy (see we agree on something), the one amazon is selling, is just a smaller version of the ic pro. Which there is a difference, between the two. Are you saying that the company current is guilty of false advertisement? They are required by state and federal law to post them bare minimum that their product can do, not maximum. Just shooting in the dark here but I’m pretty positive their test engineers made darn certain these lights either reached the minimum par rating that they have posted. If not they would face legal ramifications, and with this hobby you know people would complain about it. As you stated let’s have some common sense here, the light in question on amazon is between 18-23 watts and yes they can if they change the lens to magnify the light. It could be a 50 watt diode, and not produce more than 100 par with out a lens. The lens gives the leds or aka diodes the spread and magnification. So they are not magic diodes :) they are just really blind and need thick lens to see and be worth while.

@cgdcinc nice tank looks great, @jda not too sound umm scarastic but looks like 18 Watts is doing pretty good on softies. :)

If the op wants to do sps harder stuff, if he is into it yes he will need a stronger light. My lights are 200 watt lights, so substantially more power with a 60 degree lens. I think all I’m saying is some people here have a dream of having a salt water tank. I’m not one to crush those dreams and I have been honest. He can grow softies and some lps in that tank with that light. If he said I wanna use this for an sps dominant tank on a 55 90 etc, I would be honest and say probably not ideal. If that all you can do then place them really really high. Speaking with Brandon who is one of the design engineers at current, (which in my posts and threads I have stated), the ic loop pros even are not super ideal for sps unless placed super high.

But again @jda I respect your thoughts and opinion I do that’s totally your right. But even now and as I before pointed out you can’t explain why they are crappy.

@DSC reef I’m not sure what went wrong or why they didn’t work for you. But being honest how many of us as reefers know that almost any thing or slight change can crash or kill coral or fish etc. at the same time how many of us (me included) blame equipment or lights even.
For my I added a third version of my light to have better spread just for kinda the heck of it really. It proved to be huge mistake, I literally cooked some of my sps, even though I turned all three of them down by 33%. I went back to two lights and my sps corals are thriving. At the same time I was dumb enough to be convinced that have 10-20 ppm nitrates is good for a tank with sps, when it’s always been 2-5ppm. Well killed a few more sps and lps off with that stupid move and went back to my old way of 2-5 ppm.

My tank has success and looks (well to me) because of numerous factors including my crappy lights. The op sounds fairly new to this, which means even if he has thee best light (maybe a fluval marine 2.0 (those are actually decent lights but lol) he needs the right mix of everything just to have a softie tank. Besides isn’t 99% of everything we use in our tanks with crappy or high end made in China or Taiwan or some other place anyway. I don’t think I have any that says made in Germany or even the US. So they can’t be too far off in quality.
 

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