Custom tank depth regrets?

[Acroporaaddict]

Im in the planning stages of a new/ final/ dream tank build. I currently have a 40"x30" eurobraced and want to go slightly larger. My non negotiables after running my current tank are a minimum 24" between the bracing (halide reflectors, led supplemental bars, Tunze Orcas, Avast Plank etc) Most builders recommend a 4" perimeter brace, that puts me at 32" minimum depth. For those of you that have 30"+ deep tanks, what are the problems you face with that depth? Would you change anything? Considering a tank between 48" and 60" long, 22" tall and a depth between 32" and 40". Thanks for any feedback!

 

[PPBlimpy]

My next tank will be 36" front to back.
I have had 30" and loved it!! Unfortunately that tank was an old acrylic 300G truvu and started leaking at a bulkhead. Had to downsize to a 24" tank. Not happy but it is what it is.

I just found a 300DD on market place that would be a project, but man is it temping!! 72x36x27.

I would do a complete rebuild / reseal with plans to build into a wall.
I have always liked having a 8" long tank but don't have a good spot to do a built in.
I would give up 2 feet in length in a heart beat to go to 36" F-B and I actually have a wall / room I could do the built in.

I like that you are planning around halides also! I am experimenting with the newer 315W ceramic metal halides currently. I have 3 over my 210 and one over a 54G. Unfortunately highest kelvin Bub available is a 10k.

On the 54g (27" tall) I am using the 315W Halide @50% and two noopsyche k7 as supplemental lighting and seeing 540 Par ( apogee 420x) half way down the tank and 780 2" below surface.
If I set the ballast to 100% It measures 730 half way down and over 1000 2" below surface

 

[mfinn]

While my tank is only 25" tall, it's 30" front to back and I love it.
My only concern is I am at the limit now of being able to reach the back of the tank anywhere from mid point up.
Reaching the back bottom is almost impossible for me with out a snorkel.
I actually knocked out over 4 Radions into the water trying to reach the back.

 

[X-37B]

I have 30" and a 36" front to back systems. Much nicer than 24" systems.
Only issue is reaching the back but not really an issue once it grows in.
Current 60×30×21 at start and now 2 years.

 

[PPBlimpy]

While my tank is only 25" tall, it's 30" front to back and I love it.
My only concern is I am at the limit now of being able to reach the back of the tank anywhere from mid point up.
Reaching the back bottom is almost impossible for me with out a snorkel.
I actually knocked out over 4 Radions into the water trying to reach the back.

this is why mine would have to be mounted in wall. i would need to make the lights on a hoist to lift them out of the way and platform to lay one. but again I would be working on the back of the tank, tongs to reach anything in the sand toward the front.

 

[Justfebreezeit]

Is depth not the unviresal word for top to bottom measurements? If it's not it should be.
Length x width x height/depth

I get lost when someone uses it for the front to back measurement. I understand intellectually why you would call it depth though.

 

[X-37B]

this is why mine would have to be mounted in wall. i would need to make the lights on a hoist to lift them out of the way and platform to lay one. but again I would be working on the back of the tank, tongs to reach anything in the sand toward the front.

On my 8020 fixture I can slide the leds back out of the way if I need to remove something large. Just release the lever and slide them back.
As long as the lights are 12" or more above the system its fairly easy to work in the tank.
My halide system is 14" above and easy to work in.

 

[PPBlimpy]

Is depth not the unviresal word for top to bottom measurements? If it's not it should be.
Length x width x height/depth

I get lost when someone uses it for the front to back measurement. I understand intellectually why you would call it depth though.

yes in my world depth would be top to bottom. I had to reread it a couple times originally to make sure i understood.

On my 8020 fixture I can slide the leds back out of the way if I need to remove something large. Just release the lever and slide them back.
As long as the lights are 12" or more above the system its fairly easy to work in the tank.
My halide system is 14" above and easy to work in.

I like the idea of 8020 and maybe mounting on some type of rollers. I use smaller 3/4 aluminum extrusion often for work and have bearing block/ rollers that run in the channels ( think 3d printer) building a rack with that and having the lights be able to slid forward would work well.

 

[mfinn]

this is why mine would have to be mounted in wall. i would need to make the lights on a hoist to lift them out of the way and platform to lay one. but again I would be working on the back of the tank, tongs to reach anything in the sand toward the front.

It was not a well thought out plan.

 

[X-37B]

yes in my world depth would be top to bottom. I had to reread it a couple times originally to make sure i understood.


I like the idea of 8020 and maybe mounting on some type of rollers. I use smaller 3/4 aluminum extrusion often for work and have bearing block/ rollers that run in the channels ( think 3d printer) building a rack with that and having the lights be able to slid forward would work well.

Yea I looked at rollers but the simple locking levers that run in the channel are the option I went with.

 

[Biff0rz]

I have a 60x30x30 tank -- I don't think I would go lower than 27 on a new built and would likely miss the 30" deep (top to bottom). The fish love the extra swimming room!!

 

[djf91]

My acrylic display measures 72”x54”x30”. It has 6” bracing all the way around and down the middle. My arms make it to the bottom but I’m maxed out. I don’t find it a big deal though and have learned how to make it work. Don’t even think about it anymore. Grabbers are a must though.

PikStik Aqua Tongs 32"

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aquacave.com

 

[PPBlimpy]

My acrylic display measures 72”x54”x30”. It has 6” bracing all the way around and down the middle. My arms make it to the bottom but I’m maxed out. I don’t find it a big deal though and have learned how to make it work. Don’t even think about it anymore. Grabbers are a must though.

PikStik Aqua Tongs 32"

Find premium aquarium supplies at Aquacave. we offer top brands like Tunze, Ecotech, and more. Free Shipping available!

aquacave.com

That's pretty awesome!! I have wanted to do a 4x4x3 semi cube in the middle of a room but I think i like these dimensions more!

 

[djf91]

Thanks! Yea I love the shape of it! Lots of options for aquascaping