Cycling an Aquarium

rtague

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Hi asked this question on a different forum on here ,thought I'd try it on this thread,thanks for all the great info,question,I'm going to add 50 lbs of Tampa Bay saltwater live sand to cycle a 100 gallon,do you think this would be sufficient to instantly cycle a new tank to the point where I could add a clean up crew pretty soon?.
 
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Hi asked this question on a different forum on here ,thought I'd try it on this thread,thanks for all the great info,question,I'm going to add 50 lbs of Tampa Bay saltwater live sand to cycle a 100 gallon,do you think this would be sufficient to instantly cycle a new tank to the point where I could add a clean up crew pretty soon?.
I'm not as familiar with their live sand as I am with their live rock. If it is collected from the ocean and kept wet, like their rock, then yes. Most snails and hermit crabs can do quite well in a new system as long as ammonia dosing isn't used to test the cycle. The live sand will only improve things for them.
 

rtague

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I'm not as familiar with their live sand as I am with their live rock. If it is collected from the ocean and kept wet, like their rock, then yes. Most snails and hermit crabs can do quite well in a new system as long as ammonia dosing isn't used to test the cycle. The live sand will only improve things for them.
Thanks,yes they're live sand is collected with their live rock,kept wet and shipped in sea water,figured 50 lbs would do a good job kicked starting the system.
 
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Thanks,yes they're live sand is collected with their live rock,kept wet and shipped in sea water,figured 50 lbs would do a good job kicked starting the system.
It's not going to have the water flow that rock will, so I doubt that it will process ammonia as well as the rock, but for a CuC and a small fish or two? I think it will be just fine if you feed lightly.
 

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It's not going to have the water flow that rock will, so I doubt that it will process ammonia as well as the rock, but for a CuC and a small fish or two? I think it will be just fine if you feed lightly.
Ah interesting about the different flow with rock and sand,maybe I'll stick 10 lbs of their live rock in the sump,what fo you think?
 
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Ah interesting about the different flow with rock and sand,maybe I'll stick 10 lbs of their live rock in the sump,what fo you think?
Might be a good idea just to provide a little insurance.
 

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I am curing some dry rock in a 50 litre QT, with a view to adding it to my main tank. The ammonia level has been at 2 ppm for a few weeks. I have added Quick Start on a few occasions to help kick things off, and also did a partial water change from my DT. How long should I expect things to take before I see an ammonia spike, and is there anything I can do to move things along? I have some Dr Tim's ammonia, but it says don't go above 2 ppm, and the tank is already there. Thanks.
 

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Dear all,

I cycled reef tank with One and only and with ammonium chloride.
Ammonium is 0, nitrites 0, nitrates between 50-100 (Salifert)
Here are pictures of aquarium.
Now is cca 4 weeks from beginning of cycling. There is live rock in it from some old aquarium.

What would you do? Change 80% of water and then add CUC and fish to eat algae
or make dark for 1 - 2 weeks to kill algae and then add fish?
lights are on since beginning, skimmer was for 1 week off at start of cycling
Today I will put macro algae in sump

Please suggest me what to do.

IMG_7059.jpg IMG_7089.jpg IMG_7090.jpg

Hi again,

after that I made dark in aquarium for 1 week. A lot of algae went away, skimmer was working hard, I added Caulerpa to sump (it is growing well), I added some CuC (few hermits, snails), but since then Phosphate are at 0.25 and not dropping.
I do not have any fish in tank, I do not feed it, dead algae already went out, I made 50% water change but Phosphate does not drop. Nitrates are at 5-10.

should I wait for some time before I add GFO to lower phosphate to 0.1?
Rocks are a bit dirty and if I direct power head to them all tank become cloudy.

IMG_7411.jpg IMG_7412.jpg
 
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Hi again,

after that I made dark in aquarium for 1 week. A lot of algae went away, skimmer was working hard, I added Caulerpa to sump (it is growing well), I added some CuC (few hermits, snails), but since then Phosphate are at 0.25 and not dropping.
I do not have any fish in tank, I do not feed it, dead algae already went out, I made 50% water change but Phosphate does not drop. Nitrates are at 5-10.

should I wait for some time before I add GFO to lower phosphate to 0.1?
Rocks are a bit dirty and if I direct power head to them all tank become cloudy.

IMG_7411.jpg IMG_7412.jpg
What test kit are you using for phosphate? I would expect it to drop after a 50% water change but then have it rebound back up.
 

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What test kit are you using for phosphate? I would expect it to drop after a 50% water change but then have it rebound back up.
I am using Salifert test.
It is also strange to me. It should drop because of macro algae and because RO-DI water- I tested also RO-DI water - result is 0 phoshate. I am using Aquaforest reef salt.
 
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I am using Salifert test.
It is also strange to me. It should drop because of macro algae and because RO-DI water- I tested also RO-DI water - result is 0 phoshate. I am using Aquaforest reef salt.
I feel the issue is the test kit. I don't think it is accurate enough to be of significant value unfortunately.
 

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I am using Salifert test.
It is also strange to me. It should drop because of macro algae and because RO-DI water- I tested also RO-DI water - result is 0 phoshate. I am using Aquaforest reef salt.
I think it’s widely excepted that a Hanna checker is the most accurate or at least the easiest-to-use test for phosphate. Last I checked they were about 50 bucks but well worth it for peace of mind. No color matching- they give you a digital readout. I would say you probably want the ULR or “ultra low range” phosphate checker. It will read levels up to and beyond toxic for corals, and down to .01ppm. Welcome to R2R!
 

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Every tank I’ve done it’s been 4. I have had fish in. In days. I only do Nanos. Live Rock or Cycled Fake Rock, Live Sand and Ocean water and bacteria dosing. You don’t need to cycle. But the bacteria does need to colonize.

61EE100C-B373-4D5F-BBC0-ACC4983968B7.jpeg


They sent me their autographs when I was at Petco as an underpaid Aquatics guy. Was one of my favorite shows. No obviously they don’t show you everything. But they use a lot of live sand and nutriseawater for a reason. Cuts down on their build time. Plus I’m sure their paid to advertise it.

Even if you utilize all the shortcuts you should still wait and check your levels and add slowly as it takes a long time for the system itself to establish.

A cycled tank is not the same thing as an established tank.

Why would you wait. Maybe something goes wrong you accidentally rinse your live rock with hot chlorine water. Etc. Theirs short cuts but theirs no instant cycle unless your really careful about it and even then I don’t believe in it.

Fastest I had 2 clowns in a Nano was 4 days. Probably could of done it same day. Decided to wait and test.
 
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No obviously they don’t show you everything. But they use a lot of live sand and nutriseawater for a reason. Cuts down on their build time. Plus I’m sure their paid to advertise it.
One thing they don't show you, is that in addition to all the bottled bacteria and live sand they add, they also remove most of the fish right after they shoot the episode and the tank is stocked more slowly after they leave.
 

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One thing they don't show you, is that in addition to all the bottled bacteria and live sand they add, they also remove most of the fish right after they shoot the episode and the tank is stocked more slowly after they leave.
Yup that is true. Those giant tanks no way in hell. Some of the small ones they might get away with. But they also use a lot of artificial decoration aka no live rock on most their tanks. Equates to less bacteria. Still tho. Miss that show!!! Haha.
 

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I think a specific paragraph needs to be added to the initial post on how to maintain the cycled tank if no fish are to be added for a while (weeks or months). Example- people are cycling their rock in tubs months before their fish tank arrives. While there is a section talking about that you can’t kill off the nitrifying bacteria once established, there’s no statement on how to keep the population up while you wait for your tank...

does that mean ghost feeding? How often? How much? Just adding more ammonia? How frequently? The idea of course would be so that once the tank arrives you just add water and the rocks and you can go and start stocking fish.
 

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I think a specific paragraph needs to be added to the initial post on how to maintain the cycled tank if no fish are to be added for a while (weeks or months). Example- people are cycling their rock in tubs months before their fish tank arrives. While there is a section talking about that you can’t kill off the nitrifying bacteria once established, there’s no statement on how to keep the population up while you wait for your tank...

does that mean ghost feeding? How often? How much? Just adding more ammonia? How frequently? The idea of course would be so that once the tank arrives you just add water and the rocks and you can go and start stocking fish.
This is true... all questions I had setting up my first tank recently.
 
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Brew12

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I think a specific paragraph needs to be added to the initial post on how to maintain the cycled tank if no fish are to be added for a while (weeks or months). Example- people are cycling their rock in tubs months before their fish tank arrives. While there is a section talking about that you can’t kill off the nitrifying bacteria once established, there’s no statement on how to keep the population up while you wait for your tank...

does that mean ghost feeding? How often? How much? Just adding more ammonia? How frequently? The idea of course would be so that once the tank arrives you just add water and the rocks and you can go and start stocking fish.
I guess I didn't include anything about it because there isn't much reason to do anything.

I would have almost no concerns with someone cycling rocks in a tub, moving them into their tank, filling it with water, and letting it sit untouched for a few months. As long as you don't dump in 8 fish and start feeding heavily no ghost feeding would be necessary imo.
 

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I guess I didn't include anything about it because there isn't much reason to do anything.

I would have almost no concerns with someone cycling rocks in a tub, moving them into their tank, filling it with water, and letting it sit untouched for a few months. As long as you don't dump in 8 fish and start feeding heavily no ghost feeding would be necessary imo.

But the bacterial population surely must decrease as the food supply dwindles. Or as you mentioned, it goes dormant and is able to rapidly repopulate to the point where it’s not worth ghost feeding?

If we did ghost feed, wouldn’t that keep the bacterial population at high numbers primed and ready, not needing as much of an expansion phase??
 

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