d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build
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In my opinion reef link is the best, it has an acclimation timer that's worth it
OP
OP
LOL, no worries. You have a thing against odd numbers? hahaha j/k ;)
We talked about two, but I didn't feel that was enough. With the 31" depth i wanted to turn them 90 degrees.
Right now 11", but that's just where they ended up. Once the tank is filled and running I'll start playing with the height. They will probably end up several inches higher.
I'm sorry, which ones are you talking about?
Thanks! :)
ROFL! :D
I hate you both. :p
Yes, there is something about Elos and Leica that were meant to go together. ;)
Now if only there was a macro setup that could best my Nikon!
Cool, thanks. :)
Correct. You could get Mitras if you wanted full control via the Profilux.
I do have the Radions plugged into the Profilux just so I have the capability to shut them down if I need to. But all programming is done through EcoSmart Live.
OP
OP
Ah, yes... those are just the ones that are threaded on the other side.
I couldn't find double ended ones either (the center is always much thinner than the ends) so I just got these and force fit the lines into the threaded end.
The caps aren't really thick enough to work with the threads on the fittings so i just made sure the holes were small enough that it was a fairly tight fit, and then a little crazy glue holds them in nice and solid. ;)
And a small hole is drilled in the cap to allow air in.
dbl
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Not to trivialize this awesome build, but these work well for a bottle-top pass-through. It's what I used for dosing bottles. Sorry Dennis for interrupting.
http://www.aquacave.com/john-guest-1-4-x-1-4-bulkhead.html
http://www.aquacave.com/john-guest-1-4-x-1-4-bulkhead.html
jwarren220
Active Member
My face just melted!!! You're setting the new standard! Did BAO do your dosing bottles as well?UPDATE 4-15-16
Moving right along... the equipment board is done and the sump is in!
Some of the plumbing is still dry fit as I wait for a couple fittings to arrive this week.
And some minor things to do like install the dosing lines, label the bottles, install my probes, put the Avast Spyglass in the return section of the sump... all in due time.
Now to head back outside and run those water supply lines from the mixing station on the back deck! :)
OP
OP
Yep, that's exactly what I used, just without the metal collar.
So instead of being held to the cap by the collar, mine are held in by some pressure and a little glue. ;)
haha, thanks!
And no, those are just Voss water bottles. The caps were spray painted and the graphics were scraped off the glass.
JMLewis
Active Member
Noooo! Don't do it!
That white paper has been out for months now, I tried all of the schedules and was not happy by the color of the tank nor the color/growth of my sps. I was told "oh somethings off with your parameters that's why your having issues". However my parameters have been rock solid since day 1 so I knew that wasn't it.
ONLY 2 1/2 weeks ago I replaced my G3 Radion Pro with an ATI Sunpower and it's already making a huge impact on color and growth. My yellows are coming back, my Fire and Ice Echinata is getting its bright blue tips again, I could go on and on. In that same time period I've had to increase my dosing 2 part over 20% to keep up with new growth. I wanted the Radions to work, truly. But now that I've gone to T5 I'd never go back.
Let's just say hang onto that Powermodule. :)
That white paper has been out for months now, I tried all of the schedules and was not happy by the color of the tank nor the color/growth of my sps. I was told "oh somethings off with your parameters that's why your having issues". However my parameters have been rock solid since day 1 so I knew that wasn't it.
ONLY 2 1/2 weeks ago I replaced my G3 Radion Pro with an ATI Sunpower and it's already making a huge impact on color and growth. My yellows are coming back, my Fire and Ice Echinata is getting its bright blue tips again, I could go on and on. In that same time period I've had to increase my dosing 2 part over 20% to keep up with new growth. I wanted the Radions to work, truly. But now that I've gone to T5 I'd never go back.
Let's just say hang onto that Powermodule. :)
OP
OP
I hear ya. Trust me. I've been there as I explained earlier. :)
But to be fair, you got your tank wet in mid January and it's been almost 3 weeks since you switched, so that means you only gave the Radions a chance for about 3 1/2 months?
And tried "all of the schedules" in that short time? It takes time for coral to adjust to lighting. Making a lot of changes is a common mistake... and this is one of the downfalls of LED fixtures that allow all this control over spectrum and intensity.
Your tank is just a baby. After 6 months my nano lit with MH and LED is still looking like poop as far as sps is concerned.
I was reading your build thread but didn't see any info on the lighting. How many units? How high was it mounted? PAR readings?
Forgive me if I'm wrong but I'm not sure you gave them a fair chance.
But as I said above, I do understand the simplicity of the older lighting technologies and how they can make a big difference.
jwarren220
Active Member
I am also stealing your Voss dosing container idea as well lol. Got to love this build though its amazing , is all i got to say , Props to you Denis..
OP
OP
UPDATE 5-19-16
We're down the very last piece of the puzzle before the tank gets wet! :)
Yesterday I finished running the water lines from the outdoor mixing station.
This is a trick that goes back to my old 36" cube days.
I drilled a small hole through the house, ran the two water lines (fresh and salt) through the hole, and then behind the baseboard molding.
As you can see in the pics below, once everything is put back in place, no one can tell!
I also ran a third line from the sump and through the wall directly behind the tank.
The powder room pedestal sink is against that wall so I will eventually tap into the drain.
This is the setup I would normally be using for my Auto Water Change system.
Since the Triton Method doesn't require water changes on a regular basis, it won't get used much. Just the ATO line.
But it's there if I need it. It will take a while to do a large change, but shouldn't be too big of a deal.
In an emergency I have a 45g Brute on wheels that I can use to do it the old fashioned way.
Meanwhile, 55g of Tropic Marin Pro SW is currently mixing, and another 55g of RO/DI is being made.
Woot! :)
Here's the water lines connected to the sump, right behind the skimmer.
The other part of this is ATO.
Since I'm tight in space in the stand, I've decided not to use the Cole-Parmer peristaltic pump that I have.
I still have an extra old PowerBar for my GHL Profilux so I'm going to put that outside in the mixing station shed with a standard hobby pump inside the RO tank.
I'm going to be running that flat style Cat6 cable between the PowerBar and the stand.
It will be going through the same hole in the house but since it's flat, I'm just going to run it along the baseboard molding and/or bundled with those two extension cords.
I know from experience that there's really nothing to go wrong with the water lines, so once those are hidden they are good for years.
But the Cat6 cable could get damaged so in order to avoid having to pull molding again, especially behind the tank, it's going to remain exposed... but tidy.
Next stop.... filling the tank! :)
We're down the very last piece of the puzzle before the tank gets wet! :)
Yesterday I finished running the water lines from the outdoor mixing station.
This is a trick that goes back to my old 36" cube days.
I drilled a small hole through the house, ran the two water lines (fresh and salt) through the hole, and then behind the baseboard molding.
As you can see in the pics below, once everything is put back in place, no one can tell!
I also ran a third line from the sump and through the wall directly behind the tank.
The powder room pedestal sink is against that wall so I will eventually tap into the drain.
This is the setup I would normally be using for my Auto Water Change system.
Since the Triton Method doesn't require water changes on a regular basis, it won't get used much. Just the ATO line.
But it's there if I need it. It will take a while to do a large change, but shouldn't be too big of a deal.
In an emergency I have a 45g Brute on wheels that I can use to do it the old fashioned way.
Meanwhile, 55g of Tropic Marin Pro SW is currently mixing, and another 55g of RO/DI is being made.
Woot! :)
Here's the water lines connected to the sump, right behind the skimmer.
The other part of this is ATO.
Since I'm tight in space in the stand, I've decided not to use the Cole-Parmer peristaltic pump that I have.
I still have an extra old PowerBar for my GHL Profilux so I'm going to put that outside in the mixing station shed with a standard hobby pump inside the RO tank.
I'm going to be running that flat style Cat6 cable between the PowerBar and the stand.
It will be going through the same hole in the house but since it's flat, I'm just going to run it along the baseboard molding and/or bundled with those two extension cords.
I know from experience that there's really nothing to go wrong with the water lines, so once those are hidden they are good for years.
But the Cat6 cable could get damaged so in order to avoid having to pull molding again, especially behind the tank, it's going to remain exposed... but tidy.
Next stop.... filling the tank! :)
You know you just jinxed it now right? Why did you have to say that! Hah! Looks good though man, how did you bend the RO line without kinking it behind the base board though? And honestly, I know you feel strong about this but I would have run an extra line or two since you did all this and now that you can pull the tank just in case :)
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