difficulty with settings for reefi uno pro 2.1

rubixcube

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hi everyone. have a waterbox 65 aio. just added a small rainbow bubble anemone. livestock includes a small blue tang, 2 clowns and a wrasse and some snails. i just set up two reefi uno 2.1 pro.

the tank is right in our living room so the default LPS settings in reefi have very strong blues that make it difficult to enjoy being in the living room, let alone watch tv

i am looking if anyone has settings (downloadable file would be great!) that allow for optimal viewing in the evenings but still allow for anemone growth at other times.

also how much blue light do i really need vs daytime type light to actually enjoy the tank? can i just leave the blues on at night and keep daylight setting on during the day?

thanks

waterbox65reefi.jpeg
 
I have these lights but I enjoy the blue violet pop, but it’s not necessary for growth. You can easily dial in a more traditional daylight spectrum, just keep the overall intensity similar. Tonight I’ll take a look for you. You can simply edit the lps preset to more white less blue, or you could cut back the sps settings intensity (if I recall, it’s more white). I’ll reiterate that corals absolutely don’t need the og blue pop in order to grow, that’s just for us reefers.
 
Waiting for my reefi to be shipped, so i can’t help you there. But reefi does have a facebook group that the owner visits frequently. I’m sure someone there can help you with your question.
 
I've been looking to add some over my reefi's so this is perfect, thanks!
Just be ware it did lower my par a bit. It’s been a while but I think it dropped it like 20-30. I had plenty of room to increase. Would recommend a par meter if you’re going to do it. Also it might drop your spread but you can raise the lights too. I’m running 3 over a 4ft tank so it wasn’t a problem for me
 
Adding a 3D printed light shade to my reefis completely eliminated any light spill into my room. Almost feels like I have a canopy. I just cranked by lights up a little to compensate for a slight drop in par.
Just ordered some off Etsy. Happy to hear this
 
Im surprised to hear that the shade dropped the par of the light (barring it was kept at the same height).

IMR, most tests done with light rays translate to sound waves, and vice ver~sa, in regards to spread and distance generally.

I see these light shades similar to horns or waveguides in loudspeakers.… which tends to amplify the strength through directivity, light being par, sound being DB,

In the case of a properly designed horn, it will also have a compression chamber (measured air space between driver and horn throat) which also helps amplify the sound output (DB). This chamber also reduces driver excursion which helps reduce distortion....but now I've veered too far off lol.

These light shades don't have that compression chamber.
But still, attaching a waveguide directly to an emitter will amplify output without a compression chamber, just not as much.

Without all that "mumbo jumbo", I'm just saying I would have bet if anything the par would have increased not reduced, due to the "controlled directivity" of the shade...while simultaneously providing less light spill.

But the par meter doesn't lie.....and thats science/physics for you....there are no "absolutes"!
Just be ware it did lower my par a bit. It’s been a while but I think it dropped it like 20-30. I had plenty of room to increase. Would recommend a par meter if you’re going to do it. Also it might drop your spread but you can raise the lights too. I’m running 3 over a 4ft tank so it wasn’t a problem for me
 
Im surprised to hear that the shade dropped the par of the light (barring it was kept at the same height).

IMR, most tests done with light rays translate to sound waves, and vice ver~sa, in regards to spread and distance generally.

I see these light shades similar to horns or waveguides in loudspeakers.… which tends to amplify the strength through directivity, light being par, sound being DB,

In the case of a properly designed horn, it will also have a compression chamber (measured air space between driver and horn throat) which also helps amplify the sound output (DB). This chamber also reduces driver excursion which helps reduce distortion....but now I've veered too far off lol.

These light shades don't have that compression chamber.
But still, attaching a waveguide directly to an emitter will amplify output without a compression chamber, just not as much.

Without all that "mumbo jumbo", I'm just saying I would have bet if anything the par would have increased not reduced, due to the "controlled directivity" of the shade...while simultaneously providing less light spill.

But the par meter doesn't lie.....and thats science/physics for you....there are no "absolutes"!
It’s a black shade not a reflective surface and it’s reducing the spread of the light since some of that light that’s coming off at an angle isn’t hitting the sides. The lights overlap. I’m not sure how it wouldn’t reduce spread
 
No question that it would reduce spread, I believe that’s what they’re for, to reduce lights spill out the sides and to cut down on glare in your eyes (laterally)

I’m referring to holding the Par-meter directly (generally) under the light in the tank

Not off to the sides…
out beyond the directivity of the shade,
we would expect par to fall off (obviously)
 
No question that it would reduce spread, I believe that’s what they’re for, to reduce lights spill out the sides and to cut down on glare in your eyes (laterally)

I’m referring to holding the Par-meter directly (generally) under the light in the tank

Not off to the sides…
out beyond the directivity of the shade,
we would expect par to fall off (obviously)
Sure I would agree if I only had 1 light. But I have multiple. So the reduced spread lowers the par since there’s less lights from the one’s to the side
 

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