Dinoflagellates my experience......h2o2 reefing tool!!!!!

Dinoflagellates looks like snot. It is green, bubbly, and very sloppy looking. This isn't the same stuff, based on the images I'm seeing.
 
I still think they might be dynos, it does not have to be green mine was red. Best way is to check with a microscope if possible.
 
aaaaaaarrrrrrr just wanted to share my recent battle and how i won!!!!!!!!!
"i wish i took pics but i didn't..:("
so about 3 weeks ago my tank broke out pretty bad i mean bad!!!!!! my coast to coast overflow would get plugged and almost overflow my tank..... so i did my research and found numerous methods and even asked advice from top dogs like sunnyx and Mark Poletti who both recommended light's out for 3 days and raise my ph...so i tried this on 3 different occasions no luck!!!!:( getting ready to put a hammer through my tank i kept on looking for more info and trying to figure out why it happened.... it could have been one of 3 things...
#1 microbacter 7 od.
#2 vodka od.
#3 my ro membrane.....
im really leaning towards number 3 since i just replaced my membrane like 2 weeks before this happened.... i have a kent hi-s unit and the membrane was like 115$ to replace..arrrr so i searched around and found air water ice sold cheap ones for like 35$... keep in mind i have the hi-s meaning silicate removal.... i bought el cheapo membrane that didn't have the silicate removal or what ever the kent has."dino's love silicates".. then my problems arose... so after trying numerous things and never found anything that would kill the suckers off, i talked to a local biologist in my local club...."he recommends hydrogen peroxide 1ml per 10gallons of water daily" so i give that a shot "scared" i have a full blown sps reef, i dose .5ml per gallon on the first day... day 2 no change, so i do the recommended dose and wake up day 3 and the tank looks better.... after 5 days of dosing h202 my tank is clean again "yeah!!!!!!" i went ahead and dosed it for 7 days to make sure they don't come back lol.... i must say since adding the h202 over 9 days ago i have not had to wipe the glass once it stills sparkles!!!!! hmmmmmm got me wandering if i should dose a couple ml per day for ever lol..... thought's anyone????
Seems like if nothing else works that one has to resort to a chemical treatment like using ChemiClean for Boyd Enterprises that appears to get rid of them and also of slime algae without any negative effects on fish or corals. It is intended for cyano's but they say it works on Dino's as well and even other types of pest algae but not on bubble algae. On the H2O2 it breaks down into water and oxygen and maybe the real higher levels of O2 is what did it for you. I use an Oxydator that is filled with H2O2 but does not release it in the water but only the oxygen and that seems to have to same effect as adding the peroxide directly with less "stress" when waking up of what i may have done if you add the peroxide directly, but glad that worked for you. Maybe doing a treatment not everyday but skip a week and then do another several day treatment may be an option, or get an Oxydator like I did. FWIW
 
Dinoflagellates looks like snot. It is green, bubbly, and very sloppy looking. This isn't the same stuff, based on the images I'm seeing.
They sure do ... nice to see you on here! Love your site .. full of really good info even for those who have been in the hobby for a long time. Thanks for all your contributions.
 
They sure do ... nice to see you on here! Love your site .. full of really good info even for those who have been in the hobby for a long time. Thanks for all your contributions.

Thanks Albert. Your name rings a bell with me, loudly. :smile:
 
I had something that I thought was ddinos for a while until I found a cyano strand that looks very close to dinos I had to scrub off.with a toothbrush and ran gfo and it never came back..if that helps

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the stuff like disintegrates when it hits the air... according to my girlfriend, the stuff is red.
 
anyone think this isnt dinos? I did a water change today, so I could suck up all the stuff on the sand bed.. Now it seems like there is bubbles all over the rocks.
 
I decided to try a 3 day lights out, and does some peroxide. It seems as if this is helping. I take a flashlight and look in teh tank to observe it and it seems as if the stuff is dieing and going away. There is still some stuff on my zoa frag plus. Im thinking about tryin to frag them and put them on some other disks to see if this helps.
 
very curious. wonder if it would destroy red slime.....
IME it does not as the safe dosage is not high enough to kill the cyanobateria. If red slime runs out of hand you could try ChemiClean from Boyd Ent. I ran a thread on it on another forum and no one reported any negative effects from its use but one must stick to the recommended dose as more is not better in this case, not at all in fact. And just to clarify I am not associated in any way with Boyd Ent.
 
I got this problem in my tank and im about to use this method but i dont know how strong it should be.
 
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I dont know about your algae problem but on my sps it seems like they are only coming from the edges of the coral or the tip of the brances.
But as i have understood algae only grow on coral if its dead. Does that mean my sps corals are dead? Because i can see polyps from them everywere so it confuses me. or is it only dead on those parts it is growing? and if thats so will it ever grow new coral there?
 
As far as the tips go, try clipping the very tips off that have algae on them. Only do a couple at a time though.
 
I got this problem in my tank and im about to use this method but i dont know how strong is that strong enogh or do i want stronger?
I use it too and 6% should be fine. I have used 9% without any ill effects. But you are using it in the Oxydator right, not injecting it on the red slime or dinos correct? If you run the oxydator all the time you should not get any cyanos or dines IME.
 
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I dont know about your algae problem but on my sps it seems like they are only coming from the edges of the coral or the tip of the brances.
But as i have understood algae only grow on coral if its dead. Does that mean my sps corals are dead? Because i can see polyps from them everywere so it confuses me. or is it only dead on those parts it is growing? and if thats so will it ever grow new coral there?

They can grow on the skeleton even if the coral is alive and doing well but you need to get rid of them by scraping them off as if they get higher up on the skeleton and reach the actual polyp that is when the damage will occur. If you are running an oxydator then after you clean up the growths and get rid of them they should IMO not come back as long as you also keep your water quality under control.

I will be writing an article on the use of the Oxydator and add it to the Article section hopefully today or tomorrow.

Use 6% H2O2 but make sure you have the right size Oxydator for your tank ... Here is a pic of the various models:

oxydator-oxydator.jpg
 
I dont know about your algae problem but on my sps it seems like they are only coming from the edges of the coral or the tip of the brances.
But as i have understood algae only grow on coral if its dead. Does that mean my sps corals are dead? Because i can see polyps from them everywere so it confuses me. or is it only dead on those parts it is growing? and if thats so will it ever grow new coral there?

Do you have a close up picture you can post so we can see what the SPS actually look like. I think that would help, as giving advice and not seeing what is going on is difficult and could be the wrong advice ... and if you are going to use an oxydator then 6% is a good start and if that is not strong enough you can always go to 9%.

Usually in SPS if their is algae growth on the branches that is not a good sign but again ... pics are worth a 1000 words :-)
 

HOW MUCH DOES A FISH’S FEEDING REQUIREMENTS AFFECT YOUR STOCKING DECISIONS?

  • A lot! - I avoid fish that require frequent or specialized feeding

    Votes: 19 33.3%
  • Quite a bit, but an automatic feeder can change my answer

    Votes: 8 14.0%
  • It depends on whether my nutrient export can handle it

    Votes: 8 14.0%
  • It depends on how badly I want the fish

    Votes: 12 21.1%
  • Not much. I’m willing to adjust my routine

    Votes: 9 15.8%
  • Not at all. Feeding demands don’t limit my stocking choices

    Votes: 9 15.8%
  • I usually learn about the demanding feeding schedule after buying the fish!

    Votes: 2 3.5%
  • I haven’t really considered this before

    Votes: 4 7.0%
  • Something else (see my comments in the thread)

    Votes: 2 3.5%
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