My current favorite is the BlueAcro Mega4Z 20K Pro Blue https://blueacro.com/acrostar/ with 4 x 80W T5 supplementation on my new 150g.
Bruce
Diy leds.. People still doing this?
- Thread starter roy026
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My current favorite is the BlueAcro Mega4Z 20K Pro Blue https://blueacro.com/acrostar/ with 4 x 80W T5 supplementation on my new 150g.
Bruce
Most DIYs don't sell their fixtures to make money. I clearly specified to get a good heat sink and driver so that you can redo and customized your lights without spending so much. A 3w Chinese generic bulb only cost me USD10 for 50 pieces. This is not for resale value but purely for your own satisfaction. Controlling lights from Starbuck is possible with micro controller if your skill and wallet allowed.
I've got diy leds on my tank, built in 2012 maybe would have to look back for invoices. not as sleek or flashy as a commercial fixture but I think it looks fine. My wife approved them and I have a rimless setup. Used makers led heatsinks, today I might use one of the sleeker housings available but this suits my purpose.
If your a bit of a electronics nerd, or like learning, it can be a fun project. I really enjoyed building it, and I have a better understanding of how my fixture works.
For better or worse, I'm not relying on a manufacturer if something breaks on it. I had a driver go bad when moving tank, I troubleshooted and was able to run to allied electronics and buy a replacement. That happened well past any warranty period offered by most manufacturers, cost me $7.00.
I have contemplated updating my leds, I like those blueAcro pucks posted above... But don't see a need to yet (that I can justify the expense to my wife anyway)
If I upgrade tanks in the future and need more lights, I'll add on to what I have built.
So while the "need" may not be there due to black boxes, I can still see a _want_ to do it.
I thought I'd add- I use a storm x controller. I have no need to control my lights from Starbucks. Imo most people fail with leds from constantly tinkering with the spectrum, and not waiting long enough to really evaluate any change, like a couple months. Why would anyone need to mess with the lights if they are away from home? Seems silly.
If your a bit of a electronics nerd, or like learning, it can be a fun project. I really enjoyed building it, and I have a better understanding of how my fixture works.
For better or worse, I'm not relying on a manufacturer if something breaks on it. I had a driver go bad when moving tank, I troubleshooted and was able to run to allied electronics and buy a replacement. That happened well past any warranty period offered by most manufacturers, cost me $7.00.
I have contemplated updating my leds, I like those blueAcro pucks posted above... But don't see a need to yet (that I can justify the expense to my wife anyway)
If I upgrade tanks in the future and need more lights, I'll add on to what I have built.
So while the "need" may not be there due to black boxes, I can still see a _want_ to do it.
I thought I'd add- I use a storm x controller. I have no need to control my lights from Starbucks. Imo most people fail with leds from constantly tinkering with the spectrum, and not waiting long enough to really evaluate any change, like a couple months. Why would anyone need to mess with the lights if they are away from home? Seems silly.
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Couldn't agree more. Spot on!
n2585722
2500 Club Member
I use a DIY fixture built into my canopy for my 42 gallon in my avatar. I use the Meanwell LDD type drivers. There are now PC boards available for using these drivers. They are PWM drivers and require that type signal. I have them controlled by my Archon. Two channels on the Archon itself and 4 channels on a AVC module for a total of 6 channels. they do ramp and if I ever wanted I could control them from Starbucks. I have never had a need to do anything with the lighting when I was not at home though. I used all Cree LED's on starboards with the exception of the 4 UV LED's. I cannot remember which brand they are. I have 2 power supplies a 12v and a24v. The main LED's are in strings of 6. One white running on a 1500ma Meanwell. 1 string of royal blue running on a 1500ma meanwell and 1 string of roual blue running on a 1000ma Meanwell. These are all powered by the 24v supply. I have 2 RGBW Leds along with a dark red and a lime colored LED The RGBW LED's and UV are on 700ma Meanwells. These are also run with the 12v supply. The 12v supply also supplies the power for all the fans on the tank. Currently there are 9 fans being used only two are used for cooling the LED's.
If I had a tank without a canopy, I might go for one of the better looking commercial fixtures. Since mine all have canopies, the DIY variety works perfectly. I also like MakersLED heat sink which I have on my new 150. I very much dislike the fans though. They move a lot of air, but are too loud for my taste. I have them running at 6v and still hear them!
I don't hear the fans, maybe they need cleaning... I used a dual monitor mount to suspend them above the tank. I am not sure I am happy with the height. When I get more stocked with corals I'll either raise the fixtures or lower the mount so less pipe shows in the back. Will improve the cord management at that time as well, though they aren't too obtrusive as is
Still going through the uglies...
Hmm. Maybe they are different fans. They sent Masscool fans that are rated at 34db and I think they are louder than that. They are night and day different from my Noctua fans.I don't hear the fans, maybe they need cleaning... I used a dual monitor mount to suspend them above the tank. I am not sure I am happy with the height. When I get more stocked with corals I'll either raise the fixtures or lower the mount so less pipe shows in the back. Will improve the cord management at that time as well, though they aren't too obtrusive as is
Still going through the uglies...
That is an interesting way to mount the heavy heat sinks but keep them stable without a canopy!
Bruce
The introduction of printed aluminium circuit boards in pucks, strips and matrixes configurations helps a lot. Much neater wiring and those with proper tools and skills will end up with proper built fixtures, almost comparable to off the shelf equipment.
EddieJ
Active Member
Some applications lend themselves nicely to DIY LED kits. I recently upgraded the lights in my JBJ 24 gallon from CF to LED with a kit from RapidLED. Very happy with it and it fit very nicely in the stock hood using the mounting posts on the hood
Friends don't let other friends use Cree. Cree and high-end in the same sentence is 
. Sure, Cree is a step above 75 cent diodes but high-end it is not. Their binning is crap and their blues/colors don't hold a candle to Lumileds and their whites don't hold a candle to Lumiled/Bridgelux (USA Bridgelux, not the stuff which comes from China with the Bridgelux name).
. Sure, Cree is a step above 75 cent diodes but high-end it is not. Their binning is crap and their blues/colors don't hold a candle to Lumileds and their whites don't hold a candle to Lumiled/Bridgelux (USA Bridgelux, not the stuff which comes from China with the Bridgelux name).
I know this topic is old, but I disagree.
I think my first led fixture was good looking. No problem with the cables either, they're neat. I'm still using it three years later on one of my tanks.
Can I control it from Starbucks? No.
But if I needed to, for another $100 I could slap the BlueFish Mini wireless controller and then I could.
U
User1
Guest
I've also run the DIY route with a pair of Rapid Borealis multi channel's with four Blue Acro 20k pro's. On a couple different occasions I've thought about switching out to Gen 4's kits but I just can't seem to accept the price for say three of them. Then the additional cost for diffusers and mounts with two children in college - DIY is the way for me. I can control them via my Apex and also Reef Angel with no issues. If I want to add another pair it is pretty easy to do and affordable.
I think the key for any DIY especially with regards to lighting is how you mount them and the tanks location. Canopy - it doesn't matter since no one is going to see them. Floating canopy or mounting visually then things change a bit and the cost factor goes up a bit due to time and material for neater cable management and other stuff.
If I was to do off the shelf then I would probably go with three Gen 4's.
I think the key for any DIY especially with regards to lighting is how you mount them and the tanks location. Canopy - it doesn't matter since no one is going to see them. Floating canopy or mounting visually then things change a bit and the cost factor goes up a bit due to time and material for neater cable management and other stuff.
If I was to do off the shelf then I would probably go with three Gen 4's.
For me it was the challenge and I would have probably quit unless "encouraged" by my local reef community who were certain you couldn't possibly place 35 high power leds in a small enclosure and still make it look nice.
It's on this tank for a year now:
The second project was similar but much smaller - a 12 led fixture to fit on top of my Fluval Edge 23L/6G.
The third one was my personal take on a led conversion for the RSM130. I've done a lot of cutting and drilling for this project and was lucky with this Chinese company from ShenZen who kindly planted on their board leds of my own choice.
Added a BlueFish Mini controller and I'm speechless - 144W of underpowered high power leds.
My next build is a 2m led fixture that would be about 500W+ real power.
This will be using 12 boards with 12 leds each on four channels.
These are the boards (custom made):
It's on this tank for a year now:
The second project was similar but much smaller - a 12 led fixture to fit on top of my Fluval Edge 23L/6G.
The third one was my personal take on a led conversion for the RSM130. I've done a lot of cutting and drilling for this project and was lucky with this Chinese company from ShenZen who kindly planted on their board leds of my own choice.
Added a BlueFish Mini controller and I'm speechless - 144W of underpowered high power leds.
My next build is a 2m led fixture that would be about 500W+ real power.
This will be using 12 boards with 12 leds each on four channels.
These are the boards (custom made):
U
User1
Guest
Pretty tank up there.
Nanobox has a nice multi channel that is also reasonable in price I've been looking at.
Nanobox has a nice multi channel that is also reasonable in price I've been looking at.
My take on DIY is:
- the lights and automation controllers are the most expensive side of the hobby. For a large tank, the comercial lights are as expensive as the rest of build, tank/cabinet/sump included.
- to fit small or odd shapes and personal preferences, sometimes compromise need to be made (this is, having to put up with undesirable things - for me it's the green, photo red and sometimes cyan leds in all top fixtures).
- warranty times are a big no-no for a reef tank, the only option is to buy replacement lights while waiting. For a diy, I have always spares on my hand for a quick repair.
- the diy time is simply priceless. Therefore, I could take on the task of doing a light for a friend, but i could never sell my lights, unless I would decide to let go a tank, in which case they would go together (if the light is made custom for a tank, it makes sense to go with it).
I have asked myself this question:
Can I make myself something similar to AI Hydra52HD in terms of lighting quality with a fraction of the price?
The start was a 2400x600x600mm / 8x2x2 in feet / 96x24x24 in inch.
The lamp would have to match three AI Hydra52HD or six AI Hydra26HD. Or 12 AI Prime HD.
Then it hit me - 12 AI Prime HD have a better spread than three AI Hydra52HD according to BRS TV.
That's why the 12led 4channel configuration with three leds on each channel. I have chosen the close grouping of leds to minimise the disco effect, and the small number of leds on each chip to minimise the spotlight effect.
To achieve the best balance between price and quality / efficiency I have decided for four types of leds: Cree XTE Royal Blue, Cree XTE Cool White/Neutral White/Warm White, Cree XPE2 Blue, Semileds 420nm.
For the look, I'm going for a sandwich approach, with a finned heatsink covered with a fine sheet of aluminium and three Noctua Industrial fans. On top of the sheet there is room for all the electronics (Meanwell LDD-H and SCW drivers, BlueFish Mini controller, any fan boards and temperature sensor boards etc.). All is then enclosed in a single aluminium sheet enclosure bent in straight angles. For the front cover, I am considering cast acrylic with a frost effect as a light diffuser. No lenses will be included, as the light will sit low over the tank at 6 -12 inches.
This is the concept:
The cover with the 90° bends and perforations.
This is a lateral view:
The visible wiring will be made with ribon cable, the metal crossing ones with round multi-core cable (for better insulation). I will try to waterproof the led side and the electronics with liquid electric tape. The fans will have to be exposed to potential splashes, but they are IP52, long-life (MTBF 150,000 hours), long warranty (six years) fans.
For the power supply, I will use a MeanWell 48V, probably HLG-600H-48B.
What could be done to make it more energy efficient?
Probably paying a premium for the Cree XP-G3 leds for Royal Blue and White leds instead of using the Cree XTE.
- the lights and automation controllers are the most expensive side of the hobby. For a large tank, the comercial lights are as expensive as the rest of build, tank/cabinet/sump included.
- to fit small or odd shapes and personal preferences, sometimes compromise need to be made (this is, having to put up with undesirable things - for me it's the green, photo red and sometimes cyan leds in all top fixtures).
- warranty times are a big no-no for a reef tank, the only option is to buy replacement lights while waiting. For a diy, I have always spares on my hand for a quick repair.
- the diy time is simply priceless. Therefore, I could take on the task of doing a light for a friend, but i could never sell my lights, unless I would decide to let go a tank, in which case they would go together (if the light is made custom for a tank, it makes sense to go with it).
I have asked myself this question:
Can I make myself something similar to AI Hydra52HD in terms of lighting quality with a fraction of the price?
The start was a 2400x600x600mm / 8x2x2 in feet / 96x24x24 in inch.
The lamp would have to match three AI Hydra52HD or six AI Hydra26HD. Or 12 AI Prime HD.
Then it hit me - 12 AI Prime HD have a better spread than three AI Hydra52HD according to BRS TV.
That's why the 12led 4channel configuration with three leds on each channel. I have chosen the close grouping of leds to minimise the disco effect, and the small number of leds on each chip to minimise the spotlight effect.
To achieve the best balance between price and quality / efficiency I have decided for four types of leds: Cree XTE Royal Blue, Cree XTE Cool White/Neutral White/Warm White, Cree XPE2 Blue, Semileds 420nm.
For the look, I'm going for a sandwich approach, with a finned heatsink covered with a fine sheet of aluminium and three Noctua Industrial fans. On top of the sheet there is room for all the electronics (Meanwell LDD-H and SCW drivers, BlueFish Mini controller, any fan boards and temperature sensor boards etc.). All is then enclosed in a single aluminium sheet enclosure bent in straight angles. For the front cover, I am considering cast acrylic with a frost effect as a light diffuser. No lenses will be included, as the light will sit low over the tank at 6 -12 inches.
This is the concept:
The cover with the 90° bends and perforations.
This is a lateral view:
The visible wiring will be made with ribon cable, the metal crossing ones with round multi-core cable (for better insulation). I will try to waterproof the led side and the electronics with liquid electric tape. The fans will have to be exposed to potential splashes, but they are IP52, long-life (MTBF 150,000 hours), long warranty (six years) fans.
For the power supply, I will use a MeanWell 48V, probably HLG-600H-48B.
What could be done to make it more energy efficient?
Probably paying a premium for the Cree XP-G3 leds for Royal Blue and White leds instead of using the Cree XTE.
Marineman90
New Member
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Lol you have better quality parts then the black boxes but your replacing your driver every other year? Ok well I guess your diy led is not better then a black box. no one I know of has replaced any parts before 5 years on a black box
n2585722
2500 Club Member
My DIY LED's have went 5 years without a failure. I did upgrade two of the drivers from 1 amp drivers to 1.5 amp drivers when the higher current drivers became available. That was not because of a failure. The LED's on those strings were able to take the higher current of the new drivers.
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