DIY Radeon clone?
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brandon clow
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I absolutely love my hyperviolets so yes to 3. I dont run mint but really want to. From what I have heard they are pretty well represented when used.
What kind of look are you getting right now with those arrays at the levels you want to run them at?
What kind of look are you getting right now with those arrays at the levels you want to run them at?
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
Unfortunately, as much as it saddens me to say, I don't have a tank up right now. Dry rock still cycling in a tote. I may take the 40b that will be the sump and fill it up, throw a couple dry rocks in there and out the light over it.
On a side note, added 3 hypers and 4 mints. Got rid of the green and yellow/amber. I'm digging the look in free air. I tried pictures against a light color wall, but the color didn't look right in the pictures.
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
Well, she's mostly cleaned and buttoned up. Final load out is 8 Blue (700ma), Royal Blue (700ma), Cool White (350ma), 4 Mint (1A) 8 Violet (700), 3 HyperViolet (700), 4 395nm (700), 2 amber (700ma).
Now need to sort out getting pwm, gnd, and power to the fixture. I'm thinking cat6 for pwm, problem is I need 9 conductors to run 8 channels one to carry gnd :confused:. Easiest solution I suppose is to link two of the channels into one, maybe Blue and Royal Blue or Violet and HyperViolet.
As for connectors, maybe back to aviation connector for power and I suppose Cat5/6 for pwm signal.
Gotta fix those upper few wires, driving my OCD crazy.
Now need to sort out getting pwm, gnd, and power to the fixture. I'm thinking cat6 for pwm, problem is I need 9 conductors to run 8 channels one to carry gnd :confused:. Easiest solution I suppose is to link two of the channels into one, maybe Blue and Royal Blue or Violet and HyperViolet.
As for connectors, maybe back to aviation connector for power and I suppose Cat5/6 for pwm signal.
Gotta fix those upper few wires, driving my OCD crazy.
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
Me? She's done. I took off the additional Hyperviolets as it was too purple for me and added a 3up pc cyan.
This is it next to a viparspectra (sorry no tank shots yet).
Getting a par meter in a next couple months so should be in a better place to draw any conclusions.
AbjectMaelstroM
Valuable Member
The main 23 led pucks aren't custom, they're just radion clones. The led manufacturer of those leds is thus unknown. The rest are just individual "known" manufacturer leds (luxeon ES Rebel cyan and Sunplus C MINT).
Correct, those have not been tested over a tank as I'm still awaiting delivery of the tank itself. Just picked it up as a DIY project while I waited on the tank. Again, until I get a par meter I won't know specifics, but I have no reason to doubt that it will work and grow coral. Just a matter of how well and the desired visual appearance.
Hope that makes sense.
Reefs and Geeks
Well-Known Member
I've ready through the whole thread and though I'm no electronics expert, I think I could muddle my way through making these. I am curious from those who have done it if it was worth the effort and cost to make these, especially if used to replace something like a blackbox LED. I currently have the Viparspectra LEDs, which are fine, but can't quite get the bright colors people get on their coral with radions.
For a 150 gallon tank (72" long, 27" tall, 18" deep) how many pucks would be recommended? I'd plan on wiring all pucks to the drivers in parallel so all pucks can be controlled at once, but still give the ability to adjust spectrums.
I didn't notice a complete build list of parts, but may have missed it if there was one. I'll have to reread the thread. Hoping I can build the fixture fairly affordably so I can justify doing it, then hope to get a big chunk of the money back by selling my blackboxes if this works out.
For a 150 gallon tank (72" long, 27" tall, 18" deep) how many pucks would be recommended? I'd plan on wiring all pucks to the drivers in parallel so all pucks can be controlled at once, but still give the ability to adjust spectrums.
I didn't notice a complete build list of parts, but may have missed it if there was one. I'll have to reread the thread. Hoping I can build the fixture fairly affordably so I can justify doing it, then hope to get a big chunk of the money back by selling my blackboxes if this works out.
i decided to buy the 21 led version customized with cree and semileds.
I chose this configuration:
Channel1 415 395 395 415
Channel2 480 480 480 480
Channel3 455 455 455 455
Channel4 White White White White
Channel5 415 RED/660 395 GREEN/525 415
Where:
white is CREE XPG2 6500k
415 is Semileds uv415nm
395 is Semlieds uv395nm
480 is CREE XPE BLUE 480nm
455 is CREE XTE royal blue 455nm
RED is CREE XPE red 660nm
GREEN is CREE XPE green 530nm
What do you think about this?
I chose this configuration:
Channel1 415 395 395 415
Channel2 480 480 480 480
Channel3 455 455 455 455
Channel4 White White White White
Channel5 415 RED/660 395 GREEN/525 415
Where:
white is CREE XPG2 6500k
415 is Semileds uv415nm
395 is Semlieds uv395nm
480 is CREE XPE BLUE 480nm
455 is CREE XTE royal blue 455nm
RED is CREE XPE red 660nm
GREEN is CREE XPE green 530nm
What do you think about this?
Reefs and Geeks
Well-Known Member
Would this type of power supply/driver work for the LED pucks? I don't know if a PWR could be used with these or not. This would be my first LED build, so I could be way off here. Still trying to put my own build list together so I can get a total price for the light set I want to build.
Amazon product
Amazon product
Estimated (note estimated) highest channel voltage is 13.
That ps you posted is "possibly" useable based on this line:
IF you run 2 in series.. i.e so as to eliminate one driver (each channel needs a driver which is what will do the dimming)
you double that.. Voltages add in series..
So 2 in series would need 26V..
So going w/ an ADJUSTABLE 24V ps or a 36V (no worries) would be recommended.
350W shoud be OK..But that needs to be eiher estimated w/ the # of drivers or more accurately w/ channel voltages and driver mA's..OR really more accurate by measuring the ACTUAL voltage of channels and current.
Sounds confusing but it's actually quite straight forward..
eg 1st way to estimate.. 10 drivers used w 700mA output = 7A ability needed..84W at 12V
Reefs and Geeks
Well-Known Member
Looking for someone more experienced with electronics/LEDs to look at my parts list and do a sanity check please.
I decided if I'm going to upgrade from black box lights to the DIY radions, I'm going to want 10 pucks over my 150 gallon display for the best coverage and versatility. That being said, I'm trying to do this on as much of a budget as possible and all said and done am around $850-900 to make the lights if my parts list works. I'm not looking for any fancy controls, no need for ramping or wifi control or anything light that for me. I'm simply looking to get good quality light spectrum, spread, and intensity for my reef and plan on just using outlet timers for the controls to save on cost.
Power supplies (12V)
Amazon product
I plan on getting 3 of these to supply power to the LEDs. Would be lighting my tank with 5 pucks on the right side, and 5 on the left, so due to power limitations, I plan to control the right and left sides of the tank independently and simply adjust each side to the same power on each color channel. So result would be 10 controllable channels if looking at each half of the tank individually. LED pucks to be run in parallel off of these power supplies.
Power Supplies (15V)
Amazon product
For the UV channel that is 14-15V
LED arrays
These are the same arrays others have used. Seems to be a close match to the radions
Dimmers for each channel
Amazon product
Would get 10 of these to dim each channel
Cooling Fans
www.newegg.com
One of these for each heat sink. Plan to have 6 heat sinks. Some with 2 LED arrays, some with 1.
Heat Sink
www.suntekstore.com
6 of these
Does this set up make sense? I'm planning on using the power supplies with the dimmers in series, then out of the dimmers would be 5 wires in parallel to 5 different LED arrays to power a single color channel. Then the outlet of each array go back to the - side of the power supply. Power on and off would simply be done with an outlet timer for each power supply, so only on/off control. I'll have the fans powered by their own power supply and timer set to run them 30 minutes before until 30 minutes after the lights are on.
I decided if I'm going to upgrade from black box lights to the DIY radions, I'm going to want 10 pucks over my 150 gallon display for the best coverage and versatility. That being said, I'm trying to do this on as much of a budget as possible and all said and done am around $850-900 to make the lights if my parts list works. I'm not looking for any fancy controls, no need for ramping or wifi control or anything light that for me. I'm simply looking to get good quality light spectrum, spread, and intensity for my reef and plan on just using outlet timers for the controls to save on cost.
Power supplies (12V)
Amazon product
I plan on getting 3 of these to supply power to the LEDs. Would be lighting my tank with 5 pucks on the right side, and 5 on the left, so due to power limitations, I plan to control the right and left sides of the tank independently and simply adjust each side to the same power on each color channel. So result would be 10 controllable channels if looking at each half of the tank individually. LED pucks to be run in parallel off of these power supplies.
Power Supplies (15V)
Amazon product
For the UV channel that is 14-15V
LED arrays
5 Channel Custom Made Cree Semileds 21 Multichip LED Array Coral Aquarium Light | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 5 Channel Custom Made Cree Semileds 21 Multichip LED Array Coral Aquarium Light at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Dimmers for each channel
Amazon product
Would get 10 of these to dim each channel
Cooling Fans
Arctic F14 - Value pack 140mm Standard Low Noise Case Fan Cooling, 5 Pack - Newegg.com
Buy Arctic F14 - Value pack 140mm Standard Low Noise Case Fan Cooling, 5 Pack with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!
Heat Sink
Aluminum Heatsink for 8 x 3W / 20 x 1W LED Light - Free Shipping
www.suntekstore.com
Does this set up make sense? I'm planning on using the power supplies with the dimmers in series, then out of the dimmers would be 5 wires in parallel to 5 different LED arrays to power a single color channel. Then the outlet of each array go back to the - side of the power supply. Power on and off would simply be done with an outlet timer for each power supply, so only on/off control. I'll have the fans powered by their own power supply and timer set to run them 30 minutes before until 30 minutes after the lights are on.
Fishingandreefing
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I mean how hard can it be. You know that most of the leds are made in China right? So if parts are showing up in the market and someone with some diy skills will produce an exact copy of radion lights in 1/10th of its retail cost. Just like the 80% lower if you know what I meant.
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