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Im very happy with mine, its a strong all around board, and I havent had one issue with it, and I see version 2 and alas its even better, input output protection is a great idea. For anyone getting into reef pi, this cuts build time considerably. Its basically plug and play! And with some i/o protection its very newbie friendly!I expect to have 7 left over (assuming everything goes well). I'll put the extras up on Tindie again once they are assembled and tested. I'm glad to be able to make something that's useful to myself and others.
Using the stencil was a bit more difficult than I expected. I'm sure I could have soldered this one by hand faster than using the stencil... Then again, I only made one, and I'm sure the stencil is optimized for batch production.
Front side all soldered up using the stencil and hot air station.
The bottom side was all soldered by hand. I couldn't figure out how to make the stencil work after finishing the top.
I'm also trying out dry film photoresist to make the test board. I'm still having some trouble with bubbles in the film and getting the exposure time right. Maybe I'll have better luck tomorrow.
I know the feeling, and I'm the one making the board! I already want to change it again!ACK new toys right after I build mine lol. Any news on if they have finished the drivers for the PH boards? That's what I came on to look for lol.
#!/bin/bash
function fade()
{
echo "fading $addr"
let "addr = 6 + (4 * $1)"
let "on = 0"
while [ $on -lt 200 ]; do
#echo "calling i2cset -y 1 0x40 $addr 0x00 0x00 $on 0x00 i"
i2cset -y 1 0x40 $addr 0x00 0x00 $on 0x00 i
let "on = on + 10"
sleep 0.001
done
while [ $on -gt 11 ]; do
#echo "i2cset -y 1 0x40 $addr 0x00 0x00 $on 0x00 i"
i2cset -y 1 0x40 $addr 0x00 0x00 $on 0x00 i
let "on = on - 10"
sleep 0.001
done
i2cset -y 1 0x40 $addr 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 i
}
function setFrequency()
{
let "prescale = (25000000/(4096 * $1))-1"
echo "setting frequency to $1 Hz using $prescale"
i2cset -y 1 0x40 0x00 0x10 #sleep
i2cset -y 1 0x40 0xFE $prescale #set prescaler
i2cset -y 1 0x40 0x00 0x20 #auto-increment
i2cset -y 1 0x40 0x00 0xA0 #keep auto-increment and restart
}
setFrequency 1000
while [ : ]; do
fade 7
fade 8
fade 9
fade 10
fade 11
fade 12
fade 15
fade 14
fade 13
fade 4
fade 5
fade 6
echo "setting PB1"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 21=1
echo "setting PB2"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 26=1
echo "setting PB3"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 20=1
echo "setting PB4"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 19=1
echo "setting PB5"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 16=1
echo "setting PB6"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 13=1
echo "setting PB7"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 6=1
echo "setting PB8"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 5=1
echo "setting PA1"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 11=1
echo "setting PA2"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 8=1
echo "setting PA3"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 9=1
echo "setting PA4"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 25=1
echo "setting PA5"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 10=1
echo "setting PA6"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 24=1
echo "setting PA7"
gpioset --mode=time -u200000 gpiochip0 23=1
echo "setting PA8"
gpioset --mode=time -u300000 gpiochip0 22=1
done
You could always do a double decker with stackable 40 pin connectorsJimi Hendrix kept me company while I assembled this batch of boards. One board is for me and one board is for my uncle in Florida. Now I'm looking forward to designing another version! I want to integrate the test indicators into the board, but I feel like I'm running out of room...
I have the extras on my Tindie store.
Lol, im very happy with mine, makes quick work of a build, and I have had ZERO problems on the hardware end.I think the board 4th from the front on the right side is mine.
I'm thinking of using a smaller connector JST-SH connector since it would be surface mount and save a ton of board space on the front and back. Then it wouldn't have to stack (which would lead to other problems in positioning the connectors), and could stay nice and compact. I didn't think of adding an additional ULN2803, but I bet most people are using the other 8 gpio for relays after all. I'll have to keep that in mind as I'm working on the next version.Yes make a stackable version with 2 ULN2803's built in, at least 4 i2c ports for when we get salinity and ORP functionality. the three temp ports and 2 ato ports seems like more than enough.
Thanks for the feedback. I've always hated protoboard since it's so easy to make a mistake, and then so difficult to track it back down.I don't see many other options for those GPIO ports, considering what you are already covering on the board itself. Having an option to select between digital 4 pin optical level sensors for ATO and a much more basic Float switch without making adaptor cables would be very nice as well. I know it's not a huge issue but as we both know personal preference plays a huge role in these builds. In all reality though I don't see there being that many more options beyond what you're already including. It's a great product for anyone looking to build a controller and I'd wager it's both much smaller and cheaper than building the same options with protoboards.