DIY remote sump setup

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself (DIY)' started by CMak, Jan 22, 2018.

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  1. CMak

    CMak Member

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    Hello


    I am plumbing a remote sump to the storage area of my basement and have dry fit everything together. Was wanting to run it by you guys and make sure what I'm doing doesn't have any obvious flaws I'm missing or if someone had a better idea before I prime and glue.

    Using two 1.5" drains from DT, one drain goes to 40 gallon Breeder for a refugium which dumps into the 50 gallon stock tank and the other 1.5" drain goes right to the stock tank. Skimmer, calc reactor, heaters, apex probes, carbon reactor, and return pump will all be in the stock tank. The return pump is plumbed to a 1" return back to DT. I have also wired two dedicated 20 amp gfci outlets to the left of the sump tanks. The pictures have the return pump to the side of the stock tank but it will connect to the 1" pvc on the wall.

    Any thoughts are appreciated whether it's advice or something I may be doing wrong.

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  2. Andnosobabin

    Andnosobabin Member

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    Not that it's a huge deal atm but you should always use a larger passive drain than feed. So where is 1 1/2" in you should have a 2" out. Just for when **** builds up u don't flood ur floor.
     
  3. CMak

    CMak Member

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    Are you talking about on the 40 gallon breeder portion? It has a 1.5" drain from the display and 1.5" bulkhead draining into the stock tank. But overall there are two 1.5" drains coming from the DT and a 1" return line going back to the display.
     
  4. Andnosobabin

    Andnosobabin Member

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    So let me understand. Sorry it's early for me. You have 1.5 from dt to tank 1 then 1.5 to tank 2 and 1" return back to dt? My opinion is that the 1.5 between tanks 1 and 2 is the weak link if any algae builds up or a snail etc... restricts flow your gonna have a mess. If I miss understand I'm sorry.
     
  5. George Lopez

    George Lopez Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Just make sure they 1.5 leaving the 40 doesn't clog with macro. That's what
    Andnosobabin is referring to. also make sure it van holds all puff the water in the lines plus siphon in case of power outage and during service. Other than that looks good.

    Side note: unions are usually smaller Than what they are for so they cause a reduction in flow.
     
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  6. Reef Stu

    Reef Stu Active Member

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    I don’t see any Ball valves... I would want to be able to stop the flow of water quickly.
     
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  7. CMak

    CMak Member

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    I see what your saying now, if macro or something gets into that 1.5" bulkhead could have an overflow out of the 40 gallon breeder. I can easily add another bulkhead just to be sure that doesnt happen. I was planning on putting a small DIY cage using light diffuser around the bulkhead to prevent the macro algae from getting right up against it as well.

    I will also add a couple ball valves for the 1.5" drains right before the tanks in case of an emergency or service per Reef Stu.

    I will be testing the setup in the event of a power outage to ensure its not going to all overflow, the output of the return pump nozzles are just above the baffles of the overflow so there shouldnt be a lot of water draining back to the stock tank
     
    George Lopez likes this.
  8. Reef Stu

    Reef Stu Active Member

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    It looks like you have long sweep 90s and regular 90s. You should use your long sweeps on your horizontal pipe on the wall, and your regular 90s are for when you go horizontal to vertical. In other words, where the 90 dumps into your sump. Not like the code enforcement officer is going to inspect it (haha), but it will be better flow.
     
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  9. Andnosobabin

    Andnosobabin Member

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    Glad to help. Actually in a few years I plan a similar build so it's mutual. Best of luck and can't wait to see pix of the results.
     
  10. Mandelstam

    Mandelstam Well-Known Member

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    I would put in a internal overflow box in the fuge, just to make it a bit harder for algae to end up in the pipe.

    Also, how are your drains set up in the dt? Will they have equal amount of flow?
     
  11. CMak

    CMak Member

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    Appreciate the help :D I will get some pics up when its all up and running, hopefully next weekend.
     
    Reef Stu likes this.
  12. monkiboy

    monkiboy Valuable Member R2R Supporter

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    can't really follow what's already been stated so here are my ideas and pardon if they are redundant
    - I would add at least one extra drain from refugium to sump of same size as primary.
    - I would add strainers to the drains of the refugium
    - I would use 3-way pipes on exits to refugium and to sump to allow air to escape prior to dumping into final location, less noise and salt creep
    - I would add (better) support for the exits from refugium to sump
    - I would make sure refugium and sump is level to avoid unnecessary stress
    - I would not reduce the output of the return pump to avoid excess wear and pressure
    - I assume backflow in power outage has been calculated that the sump is sufficient space for all water including in runs of plumbing refugium
    - I would make sure plumbing surrounding refugium is not in way of light I intend to run or casting shadows making the photoperiod less efficient
    - I would avoid having a 90 bend in the return pump output so close to the pump. perhaps looks to going with a barb and tubing much higher and then a gradual curve
    - I would be sure to use stainless screws on clamps and pipe mounts

    hopefully maybe one or two of these will help - good luck and happy reefing!
     
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  13. CMak

    CMak Member

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    The stand pipes are equal height and appear to have the same flow, there is no restrictions for either. The tank is currently running in my basement, its a peninsula tank from my old house and as a result the plumbing can be seen on the side of the tank but its close to a outlying wall and Im the only one who goes back behind it anyway. Everything is still a bit messy but its a work in progress to cleanup wires and hide things.

    [​IMG]
     
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