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You can certainly integrate a side section for electrical into this sort of thing... and if it were me, I'd get the bottom shelf an inch or two off the ground.
As for plywood, go to a woodworking supply, instead of a home depot or lowes, and ask for cabinet grade hardwood ply. If you're going to paint it, poplar works well... for stain, depends on what you want it to look like. My current stand is all done in oak ply.
For paint, I really like Rustoleum's TopSide marine paint. Drys HARD, waterproof, easily available, price isn't stupid high... Bright white inside helps you see better! If you like stain, pick your color, and go over it with a couple of coats of clear poly.
Something like this? You said you have a krieg jig... pocket screws anywhere that you've got an end to end butt joint would be good.
Not at all. A flat shelf, sitting right on the ground, doesn't allow the flooring under it to dry, should a spill occur.Mind if I ask why you would get the bottom shelf an inch or two off the ground?
Like most treads there is a mixture of misinformed information and some really good information. Been building cabinets and stands for 30+ years. First started with making rack mount cabinets that had to survive air flights as well as hold 100lb of electrical equipment and survive a drop from 3 meters. Plywood is incredibly strong. 2x4 in most cases are over kill. Pine and white wood is subject to warping due to the fact it's not dried properly.it also can warp after it's been used. Really a hardwood like oak should be used.
1x3 bracing with 1/2 ply or 3/4 is going to be more than strong enough for most applications.
You also don't need alot of tools a good table saw and a cross cut sled. I would use 2 x 6 and cut them down to 1 x 3's. Trim all 4 sides and then use the cross cut sled to get perfect ends. I personally don't like kreg jigs personally I don't think they produce a strong enough join. If you have a router get a trim bit to trim up the ends once you put the top and bottom in.
I've used marine ply. Cabinet ply and lowes ply. There really is not alot of difference to be honest. Alot of it is how much cut out you get when cutting it. Strength wise they are about the same. You should be coating the wood in a very good oil or varnish. All ply will eventually break down if not treated properly.
I'm about to do a new 180 gallon build so might start a thread on it including a new stand.
Not at all. A flat shelf, sitting right on the ground, doesn't allow the flooring under it to dry, should a spill occur.
If you really need every last inch of vertical space under your stand, I would suggest not putting a bottom shelf in it at all, perhaps putting a removable plastic sheet or some such directly on the floor.
BRS sells neoprene foam. Quite a few manufacturers (Innovative Marine, Mr Aqua and others) sell foam mats with adhesive backing for beneath tanks. Although, a yoga mat would be far less expensive, and may work just as well. I got mine on amazon for $10. I’d check Lowe’s/HD/etc for foam sheets as well.As far as I can tell, the top surface is smooth and flat except that one corner. There is a pvcx sheet on the bottom of the tank already which should help with any small bumps and ridges.
I guess I’ll start looking for some insulation foam or a yoga mat. Still a bit nervous about it though..
I'll disagree on the header based on personal experience. I built a stand for my 120 gallon tank (48" wide) out of hickory. I used doubled 1x4's as the header and took pains to make sure everything was perfectly flat. (hickory is much stronger than pine, so you can't make a direct comparison with a 2x4 here.)For anyone coming across this thread.. if you want a front open span of 48" you need a 2x6 beam (header). It is actually stronger than a double 2x4. Vertical height of a beam is the essential factor. Doubling width..does double strength..but doubling height is strengthens it 3-5 x over. You lose a bit of opening height.. but the internal space is still the same.
Also make sure the back ply is ¾" if the front is open. The sides can be ½" if you have a structural frame inside.
The previous posts are correct with overbuilding & that the real strength comes from skinning with ply and installing and attaching the ply top and ply bottom shelf are very & equally important as they can double the structural strength that prevents racking. (twisting). The sides stop front to back sway.. and the back side to side.
Which is why you want a thick back to compensate for the open front.
If you have or ever come accross a cheap walmart bookshelf.. grab the top and try to move side to side.. then take off the back piece that is laminated to look like wood but is usually CARDBOARD.. And tiny little tacks.. once off you'll notice that the entire shelf wobbles side to side with no effort.
King of DIY has a great oldie but goodie on diy stands & gives some good info on standard lumber strength in this application.
Happy building!