Diy sump advice
- Thread starter Smokeshow
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Smokeshow
Active Member
Okay. My lfs has some aquarium silicone I was going to use. Unless theirs something better? Maybe alittle cheaper. They want $16 per 10oz tube and im thinking ill need about 2
Yes you could probably get away with removing the trim as its going to be a sump and never full like it would be for an aquarium.
That said I dont think you will want to as I doubt the top edge of the glass will be smooth and polished. So unless you want to sand or put a smooth finish on it, I would leave it.
Any hardware or home improvement center will carry 100% silicone.
At 7 dollars a tube.
Its easier to find the stuff located in the window and door areas of the stores.
Most of the time the silicone section has more of the silicone calks for bathrooms, kitchens and the like with mold inhibiting stuff thats not for tanks.
Just a pro tip for all to learn.
At 7 dollars a tube.
Its easier to find the stuff located in the window and door areas of the stores.
Most of the time the silicone section has more of the silicone calks for bathrooms, kitchens and the like with mold inhibiting stuff thats not for tanks.
Just a pro tip for all to learn.
I run a sump extremely similar to your second design. Being able to adjust the flow through the fuge via a ball valve off the manifold has its benefits IMO. I will say that that I am switching to a different design that will not include a fuge.
My other piece of advice would be to consider not including the ATO reservoir within the actual sump and instead think about an external tank. Also, you need to consider the possibility of overflowing from the filter socks when they become clogged and how you are going to run the drains into the socks.
My other piece of advice would be to consider not including the ATO reservoir within the actual sump and instead think about an external tank. Also, you need to consider the possibility of overflowing from the filter socks when they become clogged and how you are going to run the drains into the socks.
Smokeshow
Active Member
I used ge window and door #1 when I resealed an old 46gal bow front aquarium. Im going to run a 10gal fish tank for the ato reservoir. And the drains will be going to a chamber in front of the filter socks then overflow into the socks. Which will be changed about every 3 days or so. Orderes 8yards of felt fabric so ill have about 80 socks or so.
Red_Beard
Valuable Member
For 15 bucks a tube on Amazon you can get scs1200 which is an aquarium safe silicon adhesive. And yes, there is a huge difference. Or rtv 103 or 108. Haven't used the rtv, but after using scs1200(it's in 3 of my tanks) that's all i will use going forward. The stuff is legit. That stuff has a peel strength rating of 61 pounds per inch for adhesion, whereas silicon 1 is just a sealant. That said, for sump baffles pure silicone is going to work fine. I am just a little biased.
Smokeshow
Active Member
I'll look into the scs1200. Picked up 10 yds of some polyester felt and a sewing machine. So far I have 10 4x14 socks made and have plenty of material left. The skimmer will be here on Wednesday. Need to hurry up and finish my tv stand and get it moved into my house so I can start on the stand and sump build. Ready to get this going and get it cycling. Stopped at my lfs today and picked up some freshwater fish and stopped by their saltwater. Looked at their rock that i was going to get to help cycle mine but I think I'll skip that because they were all covered in algea and I don't want to start a new tank with with algea covered rocks.
Smokeshow
Active Member
Don't you have to do the aquascape in the water to keep the bacteria alive? I was wanting to do the scape with the tank empty first. Using some aquarium super glue gel to attach the rock together
Yes true.
As you have a sump you could get more rock than you need and cure the pieces you dont want to use and put thoes in the sump.
In the end it just depends on how long you wish to wait to introduce livestock.
As you have a sump you could get more rock than you need and cure the pieces you dont want to use and put thoes in the sump.
In the end it just depends on how long you wish to wait to introduce livestock.
Smokeshow
Active Member
Got my eshopps overflow in and ordered a jebao dcq 10000 pump for the return. The tank will be in a corner with the front and one side viewable. Should I drill and install the overflow in the center or closer to the viewable side? For the return plumbing, would single 1" pvc pipe and bulkhead would or would it be better to split it into 2 ‐ 3/4" on opposite sides of the tank? I currently have a single hydor circulation pump. Not sure on size as I got it used but should be around 700gph.
Red_Beard
Valuable Member
Not sure on placement, whatever looks best to you and isn't in the way. I would do 2 returns if it were me, gives you more flexibility with flow placement, then if you only want one plug the other, 3/4 is plenty for that gpm rating.
Smokeshow
Active Member
No one around me carries any to measure. And I don't have the 3/4" bulkheads yet. Im about to order them and was wondering if needed to order new hole saws as well. Clearing out my garage this weekend and wanting to start the aquarium build next weekend. As long as the glass i ordered for the sump is ready.
Smokeshow
Active Member
I ordered 2 3/4" bulkheads and a 40mm holesaw. Got the 55 gallon tank into the garage and started marking where the baffles will go. Starting to think the 12" water hight might be a little much.
Was wanting to get as much volume for the refugium as I could. Should I knock it down to a 10" water height or should I leave it as 12?
Was wanting to get as much volume for the refugium as I could. Should I knock it down to a 10" water height or should I leave it as 12?
Red_Beard
Valuable Member
Mine is at 11, I just use a skimmer stand so it is the right depth. My thinking was more volume=more better as long as you can still fit all the back flow water from the tank in event of a power outage without soggy floors. That was my thinking at least, not to say I'm right.
Smokeshow
Active Member
The return pump will have a check valve inline so the only thing that should drain will be from the overflow which should be less than 6-7 gallons. I did find someone selling a 125 gallon tank for 150 but the center brace is broken. And another 125 tank, stand, 60lbs of rock and approx 200lbs of a crushed coral substrate for 400 thats got me thinking about doing a larger tank sooner rather than later.
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