Downsized - New 120 Build

nept2n

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Yup “downsized” I had a 300-gallon mixed reef about 5 years until Hurricane Irma did me in. My tank would not survive, I couldn’t recover and I could afford to start from scratch. Been out for 2 years, but enough of these woes and on to the good stuff.

I am excited to come back but I am starting a 120 gallon. I will need advice and help along the way so don’t be shy.
Here is a list of equipment that I plan on using.
Aqueon 120 - Used I got off of offer up for $50. It needs a major rehab but it will work

Ice Cap 30 sump (built in ATO) - NEW

CUSTOM ATO Container 6x20x20 (10gal) – This will be for my auto water changer

Reef Octopus 150 sss - Old one I had laying around (I upgraded the pump to the new varios)

BRS GFO Reactor - NEW

Aqueon 300-watt heater Old one I had laying around

Jebao DCQ 900-2600 GPH DC Return Pump - NEW

Maxspect Gyre XF250 w/icecap controller – I took this one off my 300 gallon

Neptune Apex- New controller - older power bars

Neptune Dos - for automatic water changer - NEW

Neptune FMM Fluid Monitoring Module - NEW

Neptune OS-1 Optical Level Sensor V2 (2) - NEW

RedSea ReefLed 90 watt (3) – NEW I liked the reviews on this light.



DIY Stand and Hood (automated) – Started this build over the weekend. I have pictures at home. I’ll upload later.



Anything I should be considering as far as equipment? Any recommendations?
 
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nept2n

nept2n

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I started to build the stand this past weekend.
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I used PT 2x4 and 3/4 plywood
 
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nept2n

nept2n

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I decided to create a separation in the stand for all my electrical and electronic components, apex, dos, etc.
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I also got a chance to work on the canopy. It's still in the frame stage but I hope to work on it more this weekend. Any recommendations?
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Billldg

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I am loving this, maybe its because i also have a Aqueon, LOL!!! I would suggest using 2 heaters for redundancy, plus have heaters that have a t-stat separate from the Apex, that way you can use one for primary control and the other for secondary control. I have my Apex controlling the heater with the t-stat on the heater a little higher. What do you plan on using for lights? If you plan on using Radions, then I would suggest getting a WXM module to control them.

Glad to have you back to the Salty Side!!!!
 
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Glad to have you back to the Salty Side!!!!
[/QUOTE]



Billldg thanks. I'm glad to be back as well. Too long for me. Great idea on the 2nd heater. How do you set up the 2nd on apex (backup)?

As for lights I like Radions but a little out of my budget. I had 6 hydra's on my 300 before but this time I wanted to try something different. I bought 3 of the new Red Sea ReefLed, 90 watt model. I saw that reviews done [email protected] The initial when released and this one
What I like the most was this video " Stop the reef tank lighting confusion, the best of 2019" https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/best-of-2019-reef-tank-lighting/.

I am going to give these a try. They got great product review from @BRS and I trust them. They didn't break the bank and I can alway expand on them. That the track that you saw in the picture of the canopy. I bought the trays used on the manufacturers reef pendant hanging system and created my on mount.

I just waterproofed the interior of the stand and power center so that any spillage will stay inside the stand and not affect the power center or spill out onto the floor. I used flex seal this time instead of the shower pan liner I used on the 300.
I am loving this, maybe its because i also have a Aqueon, LOL!!! I would suggest using 2 heaters for redundancy, plus have heaters that have a t-stat separate from the Apex, that way you can use one for primary control and the other for secondary control. I have my Apex controlling the heater with the t-stat on the heater a little higher. What do you plan on using for lights? If you plan on using Radions, then I would suggest getting a WXM module to control them.

I'll post those pictures later after work. Did I also mention I am going to automate the canopy.
 
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nept2n

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I am loving this, maybe its because i also have a Aqueon, LOL!!! I would suggest using 2 heaters for redundancy, plus have heaters that have a t-stat separate from the Apex, that way you can use one for primary control and the other for secondary control. I have my Apex controlling the heater with the t-stat on the heater a little higher. What do you plan on using for lights? If you plan on using Radions, then I would suggest getting a WXM module to control them.

Glad to have you back to the Salty Side!!!!
Billldg Is your Aqueon stock? Does it have the top plastic brace?

I modded mine today at work. Luckily I'm the boss so I can take time to do these things. I ordered cut 1/2 glass cut to the tank size and converted to Euro Bracing. I didn't want the shadowing that the center brace gives out.

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It's not the cleanest silicone job but I'll clean it once it's cured. I also redid all of the silicone in the tank
 

Billldg

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Billldg Is your Aqueon stock? Does it have the top plastic brace?

I modded mine today at work. Luckily I'm the boss so I can take time to do these things. I ordered cut 1/2 glass cut to the tank size and converted to Euro Bracing. I didn't want the shadowing that the center brace gives out.

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It's not the cleanest silicone job but I'll clean it once it's cured. I also redid all of the silicone in the tank
Mine does has the center brace and it does cause shadowing issues with lighting. My next tank with have eurobracing.

On the heater question, I would get 2 200 watt heaters, I switched to titanium heaters and they are much better than glass heaters.You can get heaters with t-stats, or what may be the better option is get the bulk reef supply heater set/controller with an additional heater for 2 heaters total. Then you plug the controller into a Apex outlet and program that outlet for a heater. Then you set for temp range in the Apex and set you temp range in the heater controller just a little higher so the heaters will come on when the Apex brings it on. This is my programming for both outlets, one labeled 200 heater, second labeled 300 heater.

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Mine does has the center brace and it does cause shadowing issues with lighting. My next tank with have eurobracing.

On the heater question, I would get 2 200 watt heaters, I switched to titanium heaters and they are much better than glass heaters.You can get heaters with t-stats, or what may be the better option is get the bulk reef supply heater set/controller with an additional heater for 2 heaters total. Then you plug the controller into a Apex outlet and program that outlet for a heater. Then you set for temp range in the Apex and set you temp range in the heater controller just a little higher so the heaters will come on when the Apex brings it on. This is my programming for both outlets, one labeled 200 heater, second labeled 300 heater.

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Buillldg This is great information. thank you for the programming. I will look at the BRS controller. Quick question would a 1000 watt titanium heater be overkill? I have a JBJ true temp from my 300 that i can use.
 
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Buillldg This is great information. thank you for the programming. I will look at the BRS controller. Quick question would a 1000 watt titanium heater be overkill? I have a JBJ true temp from my 300 that i can use.
Yea, that would be overkill. I did use 2 finnex 200 watt heaters and just switched to 1 300 watt and 1 200 watt finnex titanium heater and that is overkill. When they are both on it will raise my tank temp .6 degrees in less than an hour, actually its about 40 mins. My concern with 1 big heater, especially a oversized heater is that if it ever got stuck on it would cook the tank quicker than I coul dget to my house to fix any issue. The 300 would be fine to start. You really need to ask what temp you keep your house at and base it off of that. I keep my house on the cool side, thus the 400 to 500 watts of heater power.
 
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Yea, that would be overkill. I did use 2 finnex 200 watt heaters and just switched to 1 300 watt and 1 200 watt finnex titanium heater and that is overkill. When they are both on it will raise my tank temp .6 degrees in less than an hour, actually its about 40 mins. My concern with 1 big heater, especially a oversized heater is that if it ever got stuck on it would cook the tank quicker than I coul dget to my house to fix any issue. The 300 would be fine to start. You really need to ask what temp you keep your house at and base it off of that. I keep my house on the cool side, thus the 400 to 500 watts of heater power.
Yeah I thought that heater would be overkill but I wasn't too convinced however after you reminder that they can get stuck in the on position, I follow your recommendation. I'll try to post some updates on the build over the weekend, if I can't it will definitely be up on Monday. Thanks
 
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Hello everyone. Hope you all had a great weekend. My wife started asking how much longer till I finished since I have the entire back yard with of equipment and wood. LOL

I was able to get a lot done. I'm not a master carpenter but I try. I worked on the trim for the stand on Saturday.
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By the evening I was able to complete the trim work on the stand and start on the canopy. More on Sunday.
 
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Sunday ran to Home Depot to get more wood and glue. I didn't take a lot of progress pics of the build (I honestly forgot) but I did complete the stand trim and the canopy. I completed one door and I have to make the other one. Slow and steady.
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So I have some questions for the stand and canopy. I waterproofed the inside of the stand. That stuff flex seal is really rubbery and thick. .

What do you all use on the top of the stand to waterproof the surface to protect the wood from the occasional water spill or drips when doing maintenance.

Also do you put foam under the tank bottom glass for support?

On the canopy I want to waterproof the interior as well but I want to paint it white instead o a darker color which will absorb the light. Would oil based paint be enough?

Thanks
 
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So another weekend working on this new build. The wife is getting ansy. So I managed to build the last door, painted the top of the stand, inside the canopy. Mounted the magnets of the stand and doors. But the majority of my time was spent on the electrical/power center
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All wires were heat shrink. These are great they're waterproof.
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Switch panel.... Left controls the sump light, center is a DPDT for the linear actuator and the right switch is for the power center light
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Work in Progress. still figuring out my wire runs.
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Above is how it came out. I know the wire bundles are not ideal but at least it's neat and controlled. I still have work to do on the wiring coming from the inside of the sump area but I'll work on that next week.

I hope you like the progress. please feel free to comment, make recommendations. Express yourself ;):D
 
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