Eheim Jager heaters suck!

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joec

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I've now had my second Ehiem heater go bad within one year. This time stuck ON in a QT with fire shrimp that I was just about to transfer to the DT, he's dead at 84 degrees

Sorry, I'll never buy one of these POS ever again

I've had 3 Cobalt Neotherm's for 16 months for DT and not one issue. I even dropped one pretty hard and it was fine
 

Retro Reefer

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In general the Eheim heaters get great reviews, unfortunate for you to have two failures with them but just be aware there are countless threads about the Neotherms “nuking” people’s tanks. I have both and fortunately haven’t had problems with either.
 
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joec

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In general the Eheim heaters get great reviews, unfortunate for you to have two failures with them but just be aware there are countless threads about the Neotherms “nuking” people’s tanks. I have both and fortunately haven’t had problems with either.


I think the problematic exploding Neotherms were on the 150's only and that was several years ago. I don't think that is occurring with the new ones
 

ndvr

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how extremely frustrating...I had the same experience with my DT. I lost all my fish but my clowns. (overheated them overnight) I had to start all over, and everyone I know that has an aquarium has had this type of failure with heaters. You'd think one of the manufacturers would get it right. Sorry about your shrimp.
 

RMS18

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Sorry to hear. No heater out there that is 100% solid, it's one of those pieces of equipment that will fail. I have been using Eheim's for years with no issues, sound like you just had a bad experience with a couple. This is a affordable solution to protect against heaters being stuck on.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/smart-temp-security-autoaqua.html
 

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I think the problematic exploding Neotherms were on the 150's only and that was several years ago. I don't think that is occurring with the new ones

Still happens and not just the 150’s.. thread from a few weeks ago about a new 200

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cobalt-heater-exploded.553231/#post-5689981

It’s best to run two or three lower power heaters so If one fails it will not be powerful enough to cook your tank.. having them on controllers is even better.
 
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joec

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"It’s best to run two or three lower power heaters so If one fails it will not be powerful enough to cook your tank"

I have three underpowered heaters on DT for this purpose. If one gets stuck on, no cooked tank. If one fails OFF, the other two will keep warm enough until the 3rd is replaced.
 

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Heaters are probably one of the largest failure points in this hobby. I run eheim jagers exclusively, but I have them monitored by my Apex and an inkbird temp controller. I also replace them every year - they're cheap enough to do so.
I do the same with my Apex, dual temp probes and replace the heaters annually.
 
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ca1ore

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Although I employ heater redundancy in my display, I don’t for the QT tanks either. EJ heaters usually fail OFF though. Maybe it was out of calibration? I’ve had that happen a bunch of times where the indicator ring was off by almost 8 degrees.
 
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joec

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Although I employ heater redundancy in my display, I don’t for the QT tanks either. EJ heaters usually fail OFF though. Maybe it was out of calibration? I’ve had that happen a bunch of times where the indicator ring was off by almost 8 degrees.

I tried to recalibrate it after the fact with and accurate thermometer, it stayed on no matter what I did. Its now in the trash.
 

Blue Spot Octopus

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Sorry for your trouble I am surprised that a Blood Red would die at 84 degrees. I better get a good thermometer, I just bought two Blood Red Fire Shrimp.
 

Engloid

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I have had about three eheim heaters go bad. They wouldnt replace one under warranty because I didnt have the original box. Having the receipt wasnt enough. That when I swapped to via aqua and cobalt. I prefer the cobalt. I had one via aqua that was bad right out of the box.

I now have an apex so I know when they go bad....before they can create a big problem.
 
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Buy a tempurature controller for 50$ and this will never happen again:
You can find wiring turorials on yt and do it in 5 mins. Then you just plugin your heater like normal. I dont have them on my QT either, yet.

https://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE

PS. Eheim heaters are extremely efficient at heating per W because of their length and glass thickness. I just ordered two 250ws for the new 210g.
 
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sntmods

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Sorry that this happened to you and I get it, you are using this forum to vent your frustration. Let's be clear though, Eheim Jager heaters do not suck as they are some of the best heaters out there. My experience is that not one of the 7 that I currently have, have never failed.

It's your situation that sucks as you have been unlucky. As others have said, a heater controller of some kind, which is a recommended piece of equipment anyways, could have prevented this. Use this as a teaching moment and make a change that wont allow this to happen again.

Again, sorry that this happened to you.
 

Jason Roth

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I do the same with my Apex, dual temp probes and replace the heaters annually.
Do you have one probe in sump and one in tank? I am just getting ready to start cycling in the next couple of weeks and have the Apex EL. So I only have the one temp probe. Curious how you are using the second?
 

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Do you have one probe in sump and one in tank? I am just getting ready to start cycling in the next couple of weeks and have the Apex EL. So I only have the one temp probe. Curious how you are using the second?
Yes, ApexEL with PM2 salinity monitor which has a 2nd temp probe port. One temp probe in the tank and one in the sump. To me its an added precaution if a temp probe fails (highly unlikely) or the main return pump fails I would see a temp drop in the display since the heaters are in the sump. I run two Ehiem heaters for redundancy.
 
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