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Tested with a digital klein multimeter and apex was accurate
So the voltage is still dropping down to or below 110?
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Tested with a digital klein multimeter and apex was accurate
Now that the lights are plugged into a separate ckt the voltage is matching the phaseSo the voltage is still dropping down to or below 110?
At 54 watts per bulb in an 8 bulb system your amperage is 3.68 amps
With the lights not plugged in the voltage drop no longer exists which is why im leaning towards something being defective on the internals of the lighting fixtureYes on paper.
I have not found this to be accurate in the field. Always off by 5-10% more than, due to
Location, temperature, conditions period.
Even so, less than the rating of the EB832 outlet so should be good there.
Are the loads you are having problems with using AC pumps, DC pumps, or a combination?With the lights not plugged in the voltage drop no longer exists which is why im leaning towards something being defective on the internals of the lighting fixture
At 54 watts per bulb in an 8 bulb system your amperage is 3.68 amps
yes on paper the bulbs themselves draw 3.6 amps, but this doesn't take into account any inefficiencies of the ballast which also has to use some power, not much but some.Yes on paper.
I have not found this to be accurate in the field. Always off by 5-10% more than, due to
Location, temperature, conditions period.
Even so, less than the rating of the EB832 outlet so should be good there.
The apex system is very cool. Have you tried all of the loads on the new dedicated circuit? If the problem goes away you can narrow it down to a problem with the original circuit.Previous dips in volts compared to today's dip since having the lights on a separate circuit - pic attached
I think it's crazy that I may have to run the lights on the dedicated circuit we just ran to keep the tank equipment steady with voltage.
GPH on the return pump stayed steady today. Same with UV pump. I believe I saw more flow in the tank and lastly I turned off the skimmer and back on and it was able to start up! Normally if the lights were on the skimmer couldn't kick on hard enough to create a suction on the air line, but once lights were off skimmer has no problem.
Just my .02. I would take the neptune power strip out the equation and see what happens with a normal power strip. Maybe it is bad. I always like to start with the easy things first.
On a side note, I had a problem I found this past weekend that could have burned my house down.
I was having problems with electronics that were plugged into outlets on the same circuit not working right. Low power draw items workes but higher draw items didn't. I was also told it was a bad circuit breaker so I changed it and an outlet in the circuit that wouldn't hold a plug in it any more. I used my outlet tester on the new outlet and got a indication of ground and hot being swapped. I checked a few of the other outlets and all the ones before it checked fine and the ones after it were the same bad indication.
What I found after I realized I forgot about one outlet I misses when testing that was behind some furniture is what you see in the picture. There was nothing plugged into it and it wasn't wet. It had somehow shorted to ground in the past month or so.
Please check and double check everything. This could have been much worse
Previous dips in volts compared to today's dip since having the lights on a separate circuit - pic attached
I think it's crazy that I may have to run the lights on the dedicated circuit we just ran to keep the tank equipment steady with voltage.
GPH on the return pump stayed steady today. Same with UV pump. I believe I saw more flow in the tank and lastly I turned off the skimmer and back on and it was able to start up! Normally if the lights were on the skimmer couldn't kick on hard enough to create a suction on the air line, but once lights were off skimmer has no problem.
Did you, by any chance, check the circuit that the light is currently plugged into to see if that circuits voltage is dropping? It is possible that the ballast is causing more than normal resistance. Does the light hesitate longer than normal to come on or flicker when coming on? I agree with @Dahas , it may be worth while to look at the light and check all connections(ballast wiring, socket wiring, corrosion, etc.). If you find nothing there, it may be worth it to just replace ballast.