Elements with No Known Biological Role

[BigMonkeyBrain]

I don't think that is true at all. There was strong and convincing evidence for every single thing I did in my tank, with a few exceptions that I treated as experiments and adjusted my procedures according to the result, if warranted.


What do you think I did that was not supported by strong evidence?

Well, should I dose Brightwell Chaeto-Gro ? Also, what exactly is in BRS part C ?

 

[Pod_01]

Also, what exactly is in BRS part C ?

WOW, BRS created their own part C?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Well, should I dose Brightwell Chaeto-Gro ? Also, what exactly is in BRS part C ?

BRS Balling Part C, if that is what you mean, is a complete salt mix minus the sodium chloride ingredient.

I personally don't support Brightwell, but soem folks like Chaeto Gro. I'd DIY the components you want with known purity and lower cost.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

WOW, BRS created their own part C?

I think he means Balling part C from Tropic Marin that BRS sells.

 

[BigMonkeyBrain]

BRS Balling Part C

BRS Balling Part C, if that is what you mean, is a complete salt mix minus the sodium chloride ingredient.

I personally don't support Brightwell, but soem folks like Chaeto Gro. I'd DIY the components you want with known purity and lower cost.

I noticed now, there is a 4th bottle / ingredient Mag. So, does BRS Balling Part C have the Mag removed also ? Is BRS Balling Part C just the trace ?

Do you think it would / might be okay to dose Brightwell Chaeto-Gro ?

Thank You


Probably happens !

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

BRS Balling Part C

I noticed now, there is a 4th bottle / ingredient Mag. So, does BRS Balling Part C have the Mag removed also ? Is BRS Balling Part C just the trace ?

Do you think it would / might be okay to dose Brightwell Chaeto-Gro ?

Thank You


Probably happens !

No, There is no BRS part C that I know of. it's just a BRS screw up to assume one should dose both my DIY part 3 and Balling Part C. They are both mostly magnesium sulfate and one should not dose both. I've advised folks here a number of times to ignore that on this page:

Trace elements for your BRS Bulk 2-Part : The BRS / Tropic Marin Hybrid Balling

Learn how to mix and dose the BRS Bulk 2-Part / Tropic Marin Hybrid Balling Method

www.bulkreefsupply.com

specifically, ignore this entire recipe section when using the TM Balling Part C:

BRS Pharma Balling Method Magnesium Mix Solution - Fill a 1-gallon container 1/2 full of RO/DI or distilled water and then add 5 1/4 cups (933 grams) of BRS Magnesium Chloride and 2 cups (332 grams) of BRS Magnesium Sulfate into the container. Secure the cap on the container and shake it for about 10 seconds to help start the dissolving process. Remove the cap and fill the container the rest of the way with RO/DI or distilled water. Give the container a few more shakes and then let it sit until all the salts have fully dissolved before use.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

No, There is no BRS part C that I know of. it's just a BRS screw up to assume one should dose both my DIY part 3 and Balling Part C. They are both mostly magnesium sulfate and one should not dose both. I've advised folks here a number of times to ignore that on this page:

Trace elements for your BRS Bulk 2-Part : The BRS / Tropic Marin Hybrid Balling

Learn how to mix and dose the BRS Bulk 2-Part / Tropic Marin Hybrid Balling Method

www.bulkreefsupply.com

specifically, ignore this entire recipe section when using the TM Balling Part C:

BRS Pharma Balling Method Magnesium Mix Solution - Fill a 1-gallon container 1/2 full of RO/DI or distilled water and then add 5 1/4 cups (933 grams) of BRS Magnesium Chloride and 2 cups (332 grams) of BRS Magnesium Sulfate into the container. Secure the cap on the container and shake it for about 10 seconds to help start the dissolving process. Remove the cap and fill the container the rest of the way with RO/DI or distilled water. Give the container a few more shakes and then let it sit until all the salts have fully dissolved before use.

…. and also ignore their original 7 1/2 scoops of tropic marin part c per gallon of rodi dosed 1:1:1 if I remember right, which usually isn’t the case. Follow the tropic marin part c instructions which, again off of a faulty memory bank here, was 4 scoops of TMC per gallon of rodi dosed at 1:1:2 but absolutely do not go off my memory…double check yourself before you wreck yourself. I still had to adjust my mag up every month or so, so I would still test occasionally to make sure

 

[Doctorgori]

BRS Balling Part C

I noticed now, there is a 4th bottle / ingredient Mag. So, does BRS Balling Part C have the Mag removed also ? Is BRS Balling Part C just the trace ?

Do you think it would / might be okay to dose Brightwell Chaeto-Gro ?

Thank You


Probably happens !

opinions vary but I saw no real difference, my bottle is 1/2 used…my guess is if the chaeto isn’t growing there probably is a single limiter at play (I’d bet the chaeto grow addresses this possibility but its a multiheaded approach)

 

[BigMonkeyBrain]

opinions vary but I saw no real difference, my bottle is 1/2 used…my guess is if the chaeto isn’t growing there probably is a single limiter at play (I’d bet the chaeto grow addresses this possibility but its a multiheaded approach)

New tank, one and a half months old. I have been out of saltwater for eleven years, trying to get caught up on the new approaches. My Chaeto is growing, however, I wanted to address the trace / needed / unneeded by dosing the Brightwell Chaeto Grow ?

Probably happens !

 

[Reefahholic]

I don't disagree with intent of the words, but I'm not understanding the pictures or what you intend them to mean.

Are these the same samples?

Nickel is above the target level by ICP-OES, but is shown in yellow. The value is nearly the same (a bit lower) by ICP-MS, but is shown in green.

Cobalt, Chrome, Iron, Selenium, Manganese, Copper all fall below 1 ug/L. Basically, anything under a few ug/L can’t be trusted on OES. Nickel, Zinc, and Vanadium basically fall right at the borderline so I’m not very confident correcting those elements with OES.

 

[Reefahholic]

opinions vary but I saw no real difference, my bottle is 1/2 used…my guess is if the chaeto isn’t growing there probably is a single limiter at play (I’d bet the chaeto grow addresses this possibility but its a multiheaded approach)

You just need to make sure you’re dosing enough Iron and Manganese. Both of those are being consumed by macros. This is assuming that everything else is where it needs to be. You can put gas in a car, get a new paint job, but if the wheels are missing you’re probably not getting far.

 

[rtparty]

Funny how 10 years ago we were growing chaeto by the bucket full with no trace element dosing or fancy lights. Clip on Home Depot light with a compact fluorescent bulb and done.

Today you have to ICP test weekly, dose 32 trace elements, tumble the chaeto counter clockwise 12° off axis for 42 hours before the next full moon, all while using a light 3x brighter than the sun at noonday, and pray to the reefing gods that they favor your harvest!

Obviously, said in jest as I’m just pointing out how odd it is that growing chaeto these days seems to be so hit and miss.

 

[BigMonkeyBrain]

Funny how 10 years ago we were growing chaeto by the bucket full with no trace element dosing or fancy lights. Clip on Home Depot light with a compact fluorescent bulb and done.

Today you have to ICP test weekly, dose 32 trace elements, tumble the chaeto counter clockwise 12° off axis for 42 hours before the next full moon, all while using a light 3x brighter than the sun at noonday, and pray to the reefing gods that they favor your harvest!

Obviously, said in jest as I’m just pointing out how odd it is that growing chaeto these days seems to be so hit and miss.

Yes, I have the 100-watt version of the CFL and a pond pump pointing straight up.

Probably happens !

 

[Reefahholic]

Funny how 10 years ago we were growing chaeto by the bucket full with no trace element dosing or fancy lights. Clip on Home Depot light with a compact fluorescent bulb and done.

Today you have to ICP test weekly, dose 32 trace elements, tumble the chaeto counter clockwise 12° off axis for 42 hours before the next full moon, all while using a light 3x brighter than the sun at noonday, and pray to the reefing gods that they favor your harvest!

Obviously, said in jest as I’m just pointing out how odd it is that growing chaeto these days seems to be so hit and miss.

You don’t need trace elements to grow Macro’s, but it helps a lot. People have more difficulty today, because in the first week they have Carbon, GFO, Bio Pellets, 16 filter socks, and they clean the sump every 4 hrs. Lol.

I just grow corals, and let them get all the nutrients and elements w/o much competition. PO4 is currently 0.374 ppm. What do you think about the color at this high PO4 level?

 

[Reefahholic]

Yes, I have the 100-watt version of the CFL and a pond pump pointing straight up.

Probably happens !

I think people have a harder time growing cheato today due to more equipment, and more efficient equipment. I just never like to grow macro’s because if it crashes that can cause a lot of issues, but they also compete with the corals.

 

[Reefahholic]

Go to 41:08 | Are ICP tests worth the money?

Reef Therapy Stream here:


See Sanjay’s article here:

The Reef Builders’ Big ICP Test Review, by Sanjay Joshi | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

Initially introduced to the hobby market by Triton, ICP tests have been around for several years now and have become a staple in the hobby. The allure of these tests has been the relatively cheap…

reefbuilders.com

 

[Reefahholic]

I’m not a fan of GFO either, but there’s not a doubt in my mind that it’s effective. HaHa…

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I’m not a fan of GFO either, but there’s not a doubt in my mind that it’s effective. HaHa…

Perhaps Christoph can provide some details of the experiment (such as the amount of GFO per unit of water), but I'd guess it was on new salt water, and I'd caution that extrapolating that result to a reef tank where many of those trace elements are strongly bound to organics will greatly change the results.

The idea that GFO takes out all zinc, for example, is just not correct. I did not intentionally dose any zinc, used GFO, and had zinc (4.4 ppb) well above NSW levels (~0.6 ppb on average), and slightly above Tritons setpoint of 4 ppb.

 

[Reefahholic]

Perhaps Christoph can provide some details of the experiment (such as the amount of GFO per unit of water), but I'd guess it was on new salt water, and I'd caution that extrapolating that result to a reef tank where many of those trace elements are strongly bound to organics will greatly change the results.

The idea that GFO takes out all zinc, for example, is just not correct. I did not intentionally dose any zinc, used GFO, and had zinc (4.4 ppb) well above NSW levels (~0.6 ppb on average), and slightly above Tritons setpoint of 4 ppb.

I believe he plans to do another test in the future. Maybe he’ll chime in on that.

 

[rtparty]

You don’t need trace elements to grow Macro’s, but it helps a lot. People have more difficulty today, because in the first week they have Carbon, GFO, Bio Pellets, 16 filter socks, and they clean the sump every 4 hrs. Lol.

I just grow corals, and let them get all the nutrients and elements w/o much competition. PO4 is currently 0.374 ppm. What do you think about the color at this high PO4 level?

I believe PO4 has been wrongly vilified by the companies that produce phosphate removal media and chemicals That way they have a reason to sell you something.