Elevated phosphates

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Thank you , are you OK with granulated ferric oxide in a reactor?

Yes, but bear in mind that both GFO and aluminum oxide bind many trace elements and that may impact the need for dosing.

 

[Sam7]

Just to clarify, Phosguard will release aluminum regardless of what anyone, including Seachem, claims. It is opinion on whether that is ok or not, but it is not opinion on whether it happens.

I know that and didnt claim it didnt...i was just showing op articles to make there own decision

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The same fish store guy dissuaded me from buying any more LPS until I got my phosphates under control so I don’t think he was just trying to sell me a bunch of stuff. I think it works for him.

I don’t agree with that advice, but I understand what you are saying.

 

[Foneman02]

My phosphates have crept up to .60 and my LFS recommended a media reactor and to use phos guard. Bought a Hanna phosphate checker.

Now I’m reading SEA Chem does not recommend using the media reactor with Aluminum. Oxide because of the creation of dust

The LFS guy said just make sure that it is rinsed really well IN RO before use

Looking for some advice here thanks

I just used phosguard since my phosphates were at 0.16 . It took my phosphates down to 0 in 5 days. I put them in a reactor and tumbled the beads. I disconnected the reactor to allow the phosphates to come up to .003 to .005

 

[sgdnycct]

Personally I try to avoid to using chemicals to remove… chemicals. Phosphate removers seem to be a risky bet from what I read (lots of conflicting information).

I’d focus on figuring out WHY Phosphates are increasing and ensuring nutrient export system is working properly. If uou decide to go with a removal agent, regardless of which one, IMO you don’t want to use it long term or ongoing. That brings us back to the question someone else asked: what is causing the increase in Phosphate levels? Phosphate removal via chemicals like this are addressing the symptom, not the cause.

 

[larrysaltisfun]

Over feeding I’m Sure. I liked fat healthy fish. Then I started to add coral I was feeding with spectrum which seems to have a good nutritional label but now I’m hearing that that’s loaded with by products that caused phosphates so I switched to a pellet food called vitalis and I’m going to cut down feeds to one pellet and one frozen per day instead of two of each

And I regret listening to the guy that sold me the ESHOPS 300 sump it was all they had in stock at his place and I really wanted to have a nutrient export system i.e. Chaeto I don’t know if you’re familiar with that sump but the filter sOCK compartment takes up a whole third then there’s not a lot of room for the skimmer. The media reactor barely fits in with that and return chamber is tiny. I’m kicking myself for not getting something largeR WHERE I could’ve had a refugium also.

I know saltwater fish fairly well, but I am a total novice when it comes to corals right now I’ve got a hammer a trumpet five Zoas that are thriving well but I’m afraid they may be a ticking time bomb

with my phosphates interestingly my phosphate were . 53 I ran the Reactor for 14 hours and they jumped up to .70 in 24 hrs don’t know if that’s within the standard error . that was with a Hannah checker I know it’s gonna take time to bring them down and I need to do it slowly.

Any suggestions on a possible natural export system? I cannot get the existing sump out because the cabinetry is terribly small and the only way to get the sump out is through the top so I’m stuck with what I have equipment wise

thank you for your inquiry into this post in any suggestions from anyone are eagerly accepted and considered.

Tank is 210 gallons sumps I believe 30 with an RS 600 skimmer. filter socks are changed every 2 to 3 days max

10% water changes every week

 

[sgdnycct]

Over feeding I’m Sure. I liked fat healthy fish. Then I started to add coral I was feeding with spectrum which seems to have a good nutritional label but now I’m hearing that that’s loaded with by products that caused phosphates so I switched to a pellet food called vitalis and I’m going to cut down feeds to one pellet and one frozen per day instead of two of each

And I regret listening to the guy that sold me the ESHOPS 300 sump it was all they had in stock at his place and I really wanted to have a nutrient export system i.e. Chaeto I don’t know if you’re familiar with that sump but the filter sOCK compartment takes up a whole third then there’s not a lot of room for the skimmer. The media reactor barely fits in with that and return chamber is tiny. I’m kicking myself for not getting something largeR WHERE I could’ve had a refugium also.

I know saltwater fish fairly well, but I am a total novice when it comes to corals right now I’ve got a hammer a trumpet five Zoas that are thriving well but I’m afraid they may be a ticking time bomb

with my phosphates interestingly my phosphate were . 53 I ran the Reactor for 14 hours and they jumped up to .70 in 24 hrs don’t know if that’s within the standard error . that was with a Hannah checker I know it’s gonna take time to bring them down and I need to do it slowly.

Any suggestions on a possible natural export system? I cannot get the existing sump out because the cabinetry is terribly small and the only way to get the sump out is through the top so I’m stuck with what I have equipment wise

thank you for your inquiry into this post in any suggestions from anyone are eagerly accepted and considered.

Tank is 210 gallons sumps I believe 30 with an RS 600 skimmer. filter socks are changed every 2 to 3 days max

10% water changes every week

No first hand experience but I checked the site in that sump. Assuming your Skimmer is in the large central area? In the pics the socks don’t seem to take up too much space. Chaeto will grow anywhere. If you could find a way to enclose the pumps protect the pumps you could have it growing in the main section or even the return area. Theres a trick where you build a box for Chaeto using egg raw and zip ties. As it grows out of the box you trim it. I don’t run socks or other mechanical- only a gigantic wall of Chaeto. If you want to try you could replace the sock area with Chaeto. But IDK- most people run some kind of mech.

 

[larrysaltisfun]

That sounds interesting or I could enclose the return pump in egg crate and put chaeto around it. Does Chaeto require a light?

I’ve got eight small /medium size fish . The filter socks are completely covered in debris in 2 to 3 days. The skimmer pulls about 4 ounces a day of skimate which looks like a good consistency and I still have the sponge that came with it between the skimmer compartment and the return compartment and gets cleaned weekly. If I took out the filter socks, aren’t I going to build up nitrates and detritus they are currently at 18?

 

[Dom]

My phosphates have crept up to .60 and my LFS recommended a media reactor and to use phos guard. Bought a Hanna phosphate checker.

Now I’m reading SEA Chem does not recommend using the media reactor with Aluminum. Oxide because of the creation of dust

The LFS guy said just make sure that it is rinsed really well IN RO before use

Looking for some advice here thanks

I use Phosguard. I also do weekly water changes to remove aluminum. The tank doesn't seem to mind.

 

[larrysaltisfun]

Do you use it in a reactor?

 

[Mppp]

Lot of info to read about it....some conflicting with this thread

Went From GFO to Seachem's Phosguard and I'm never Going Back

Long time GFO (granular ferric oxide) user for controlling Phosphates. Despite the "high phosphate is OK" trend in the hobby lately, my scientific research based approach to coral reef keeping (low nutrients aiming for NSW levels) has served me well over the years. It is a fact that phosphate...

www.reef2reef.com

I've been using Seachem Phosguard for 5 years due to minimum available sump space and although am aware of leaching concerns I personally haven't had any issues probably due to using product sparingly. Fair warning it is wicked strong stuff so I DO NOT follow the instructions as I've found them to be too strong. Also, if your phosphates are as high as you say bring them down relatively slowly you don't want to jump from .60 to .10 in 2 weeks or something crazy that will wreak havoc on corals in your tank (if you have some in there now I don't recall). Whatever instructions say I would start at minimally 1/2 to 1/3 preferably and you'll have to test often which is the worst part because those Hanna test packets aren't getting any cheaper. Put some Phosguard in a filter bag like you would put carbon in or anything else, dunk 10 times in fresh RO water to get dust out and drop in slow water/no moving water compartment of sump ( It's not a tumble product so keep away from pumps). check water every 3 or 4 days for awhile until level you want is reached (I like .05-.10 for my mixed reef).

 

[Mppp]

Agree with thread as I've been using Seachem Phosguard for 5 years due to minimum available sump space and although am aware of leaching concerns I personally haven't had any issues probably due to using product sparingly. Fair warning it is wicked strong stuff so I DO NOT follow the instructions as I've found them to be too strong. Also, if your phosphates are as high as you say bring them down relatively slowly you don't want to jump from .60 to .10 in 2 weeks or something crazy that will wreak havoc on corals in your tank (if you have some in there now I don't recall). Whatever instructions say I would start at minimally 1/2 to 1/3 preferably and you'll have to test often which is the worst part because those Hanna test packets aren't getting any cheaper. Put some Phosguard in a filter bag like you would put carbon in or anything else, dunk 10 times in fresh RO water to get dust out and drop in slow water/no moving water compartment of sump ( It's not a tumble product so keep away from pumps). check water every 3 or 4 days for awhile until level you want is reached (I like .05-.10 for my mixed reef).

 

[sgdnycct]

That sounds interesting or I could enclose the return pump in egg crate and put chaeto around it. Does Chaeto require a light?

I’ve got eight small /medium size fish . The filter socks are completely covered in debris in 2 to 3 days. The skimmer pulls about 4 ounces a day of skimate which looks like a good consistency and I still have the sponge that came with it between the skimmer compartment and the return compartment and gets cleaned weekly. If I took out the filter socks, aren’t I going to build up nitrates and detritus they are currently at 18?

Yes definitely need light. It’s a macro algae. I have an inexpensive light from Amazon and pull out a volleyball size every couple of weeks.

 

[larrysaltisfun]

Recommend white light?

 

[dvgyfresh]

Recommend white light?

Just use a grow light from Amazon , anything 50 watts and higher will grow chaeto like no tomorrow just make sure it’s waterproof lol

 

[larrysaltisfun]

Cool thanks a lot. I appreciate your input.

 

[sgdnycct]

https://a.co/d/bo3092f

 

[sgdnycct]

This is the one I use. Works great. https://a.co/d/bo3092f

 

[Dom]

Do you use it in a reactor?

You could put it in a reactor. Some people put it in a mesh bag and place it in a high flow area.

I use this: Amazon product

I have a large one, but it doesn't have to be that big.

I filled it about 1/3rd of the way and placed it on a timer for 6 hours, daily. Then test after a week. If the phosphates are still high, I will add an hour or two on to the run time until I get things dialed in.

Be sure to mark the level with a piece of tape so that when you have exhausted the Phosguard, you know how much to add back.

 

[StartingATank]

The same fish store guy dissuaded me from buying any more LPS until I got my phosphates under control so I don’t think he was just trying to sell me a bunch of stuff. I think it works for him.

LPS Corals naturally like higher phosphates, I'm trying to lower mine right now, but all me LPS are thriving. My phosphates are sitting around 2. I would say don't get any SPS, as it will die pretty quickly, and Soft corals just wont grow. Fish might also die.