This right here. Works well. If you need helps with the math for dosing let me know. I just finished treating a 7’x3’x1.25’ frag tank full of things. Basically a full blown reef setup, but in a frag tank.
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This right here. Works well. If you need helps with the math for dosing let me know. I just finished treating a 7’x3’x1.25’ frag tank full of things. Basically a full blown reef setup, but in a frag tank.
Sorry for your loss bud.The hammer gave out during the dip. It started to open up and look better until it burst into brown slime. I’ll observe my other lps from here. Thanks everyone.
Thanks. I just really hope all my other corals are okay. I'm really bummed about this loss, but I guess it happens to everyone...Sorry for your loss bud.
I've had it happen 3 times, months apart. Each time the Torch got mechanical damage, either from too much flow or stupid piston manhandling during a move.Any known reason why this happens? Can this happen years later in a tank w established Euphyllia?
This is what I would like to know. I've read a number of sites that state "the underlying cause remains unknown"...but then go on to list treatment options. Treatment of what pathogen, exactly?Any known reason why this happens? Can this happen years later in a tank w established Euphyllia?
BleachI do want to keep the skeleton to maybe mount other corals to (and to have something to remember the wall hammer by). How should I go about cleaning it? I currently have it in a freshwater bucket to kill any bacteria on it, but should I use some kind of chemical to rid it of everything else??
To answer this question, yes, it can happen in an established tank. Much like ich on fish, many LPS and SPS corals (and soft corals, though are seldom affected) carry the BJD bacteria on them, and when under stressful or harmful conditions (poor water, abrasions, stress), the bacteria can take over. A good solution is dipping corals to ensure that the small amount of bacteria is gone before it can take over (something I should have considered for my hammer long ago). It's quite hard to completely irradicate though.Any known reason why this happens? Can this happen years later in a tank w established Euphyllia?
It won't leach it back into the water?Bleach
Bleached, then soak in saltwater or ro for 24 hours.It won't leach it back into the water?
Ok. Maybe I'll do this for a large brain coral skeleton I collected years ago.Bleached, then soak in saltwater or ro for 24 hours.
If no bjd, then just soak in saltwater for a few days assuming no tissue.Ok. Maybe I'll do this for a large brain coral skeleton I collected years ago.
You can always start a jar build and see if it, or anything else, regenerates in it. I nuked at least one frag with hypersalinity, and have had various things (not all bad) survive on them.The weird thing is it still has some pink on it, though it may just be some coralline algae...
+1 I had a hammer take a nose dive after a shrimp aggressively stole food from it. Watched it tear a tentacle then boom, dead in weeks.Agree that physical damage to Euphyllia seems to be the predominant cause. Kinda like a cut that gets infected.
WellTo answer this question, yes, it can happen in an established tank. Much like ich on fish, many LPS and SPS corals (and soft corals, though are seldom affected) carry the BJD bacteria on them, and when under stressful or harmful conditions (poor water, abrasions, stress), the bacteria can take over. A good solution is dipping corals to ensure that the small amount of bacteria is gone before it can take over (something I should have considered for my hammer long ago). It's quite hard to completely irradicate though.