Eshopps PF 1200 users, i have a problem

[Mike7744]

Hi all
I have a eshopps PF 1200 on a 125 aquarium.
I'm running 1440 gal per hour at the display. So I'm putting that thru the overflow. Now no matter what I do, I can't get the second u-tube to fill totally, and stay in a siphon.
Any ideas on how to fix this.
Thanks

 

[exnisstech]

Sounds like you need more flow from the return. I ran two pf 800 on a tank and the tubes would get air in them if flow wasn't high enough. I've never bothered to calculate gph but I had a reeflo external pump running two tanks both running hob overflows and too much flow will overflow the tank and not enough wouid let air enter the tubes. I assume your using a small hose like airline hose to suck the air out of the u tubes?

 

[Mike7744]

I was thinking of adding a power head to the tank, and plumbing the air tube in to the overflow u-tubes to suck out the air.
What are your thoughts?

 

[exnisstech]

I used to use an aqua lifter to suck the air out of the tubes. Once the air is removed there's no need to keep removing it unless the flow is to low and allows air to enter again. I didn't fret if I had a single bubble in the tube. My biggest gripe was noise. I ran the tank for 6 years and never got it as quiet as a drilled tank.
I had a hob in each corner of the 180g below and I also had a 150g running a hob and they shared a 125g sump in the basement.

 

[ccook]

Hi all
I have a eshopps PF 1200 on a 125 aquarium.
I'm running 1440 gal per hour at the display. So I'm putting that thru the overflow. Now no matter what I do, I can't get the second u-tube to fill totally, and stay in a siphon.
Any ideas on how to fix this.
Thanks

I use Saran Wrap to plug off both sides of the over flow tube while under water, then put the tube on the overflow box and then remove the Saran Wrap. Most of the time all the air is out if I made sure the air was out before putting the Saran Wrap on. Also ensure there is enough flow on your drain piping to your sump.

I then adjust my return pump to keep the level right in the sump. I always have to keep an eye on the sump level as it does go out of adjustment based on the noise reduction foam tube covers and roller-mat fleece filling up with debris and as the display level fluctuates from evaporation. I am always changing the return pump flow to stay in balance.

I do have an ATO level float switch in the sump but I have to be careful with it as it will come on based on low sump level. Especially, if air gets in the overflow tubes and or I lose prime on one overflow pipe. I have my sump level monitored by my Apex and my ATO programmed to shutoff below a certain level as not to add too much RODI dropping my salinity.

Occasionally, one overflow tube loses its prime or air gets in it. So I have to redo the priming and then open up the drain piping gate valve to allow more flow.

Wish I could have drilled my tank instead of using the hang on the back overflow. Tank appears to be tempered glass on all panels so I could not drill it. I spent all the money on equipment but cheap’d out on the tank. Looking back I should have ponied up for a higher quality tank then drilled it. Hang on the back works but takes more monitoring and adjustments than what I was going for as I travel for work sometimes.

 

[Mike7744]

I use Saran Wrap to plug off both sides of the over flow tube while under water, then put the tube on the overflow box and then remove the Saran Wrap. Most of the time all the air is out if I made sure the air was out before putting the Saran Wrap on. Also ensure there is enough flow on your drain piping to your sump.

I then adjust my return pump to keep the level right in the sump. I always have to keep an eye on the sump level as it does go out of adjustment based on the noise reduction foam tube covers and roller-mat fleece filling up with debris and as the display level fluctuates from evaporation. I am always changing the return pump flow to stay in balance.

I do have an ATO level float switch in the sump but I have to be careful with it as it will come on based on low sump level. Especially, if air gets in the overflow tubes and or I lose prime on one overflow pipe. I have my sump level monitored by my Apex and my ATO programmed to shutoff below a certain level as not to add too much RODI dropping my salinity.

Occasionally, one overflow tube loses its prime or air gets in it. So I have to redo the priming and then open up the drain piping gate valve to allow more flow.

Wish I could have drilled my tank instead of using the hang on the back overflow. Tank appears to be tempered glass on all panels so I could not drill it. I spent all the money on equipment but cheap’d out on the tank. Looking back I should have ponied up for a higher quality tank then drilled it. Hang on the back works but takes more monitoring and adjustments than what I was going for as I travel for work sometimes.

Just fixed the problem.
I bought a Maxi Jet powerhead, then drilled both U-tubes fitted a air hose barb sealed with plastic repair epoxy. Attached a check valve and put the pump in my sump. Now it works awesome. All the bubbles are being tucked out by the pump. And it never looses prime in one of the tubes. Works great even during power shut down.