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Evergrow 2080 LED replacement/re-jig

McPikie

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OK guys, looking to have a fiddle with my IT2080 I have just picked up (think you guys call them reefbuilders).

I used to have a pro-reef which I still have the board for, will get a better pic of the layout of that:

2018-04-13_08-15-14 by Phil Cookson, on Flickr

However, does anyone have any advice as to what to actually replace. I'm thinking all the warm whites at 6500k need to be swapped for the 20k items from the pro reef (looks like every other one on the white channel).

D7K_6471 by Phil Cookson, on Flickr

4 reds and 4 greens, should I take 2 of each out and, if so, replace them with more blues? I am probably going to leave the blue channel as it is.

D7K_6467 by Phil Cookson, on Flickr

I will only be running up to 60% on blues and probably 30% on whites. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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McPikie

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I'm just concerned about having that many warm whites and yellows on that channel as I believe they can cause algae issues, hence me wanting to swap out. what does concern me is whether I will be putting too much blue into it when I have the white and the blue channel on. Can you have enough blue?? Considering people like Jason Fox only use blue reefbrites etc

@Dana Riddle I don't suppose you could shed some light (pun intended) ?
 
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oreo5457

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Change the green to cyan.. (blue-green) ;)

Light "color" doesn't cause algae issues AFAICT.
They may encourage an issue but not really spectrum dependent.
 
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McPikie

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Havent actually done it yet, just been messing with the layout on excel and wondering if that's the best. I want optimal coral growth without ruining viewing pleasure.
 

Dana Riddle

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That's a lot of yellow and orange in the original. It looks like you actually added whites (comparing posts 5 and 8?) I've got business to tend to for most of the day so let me take a look later (hopefully this evening.) With that said, I think you're headed in the right direction.
 
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McPikie

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That's a lot of yellow and orange in the original. It looks like you actually added whites (comparing posts 5 and 8?) I've got business to tend to for most of the day so let me take a look later (hopefully this evening.) With that said, I think you're headed in the right direction.
You're input is greatly appreciated @Dana Riddle . In the original spec, the white channel is:

14 x Cool white (20k)
12 Neutral white (6500k)
10 warm white (3500k)

on the standard diagram, I've put the 6500k as gold and 3500k as yellow. So the top and bottom channels consist of cool and neutral, while the middle two have warm whites, with just 2 x 20k

On the changeover, I plan to run just 24 x cool whites with no neutral or warms, adding in some blues, but again, I am more than open to suggestions as to what will be best for the corals, without detracting too much from viewing pleasure.

I have a bag of spare pucks here consisting of 20 cool whites, 10 x 420nm blue, 10 x 450nm blue and 6 390nm UV, so lots of room for movement.
 

oreo5457

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as to what will be best for the corals, without detracting too much from viewing pleasure.
Orig pattern has a roughly effective "white" channel of 11000K not factoring in the "white" created by a cluster of RGV leds.
Won't effect temp much but generally is a magnta color.

blue channel is blue..

You are going back to the "old school" of mostly blue/high k white
"not blue" will have a very short supply w/ little contributed by the cool whites and only 8 diodes of "not blue" color.

Look is a personal choice so nobody can say one way or another.
Growth "needs "are still in flux w/ the "more not blue" getting a wee bit of a boost lately..

Are the 8 R/G and limited amount from 10 K diodes enough??
Not to mention dimming.

Bottom line try what you think is best. That is the only real answer.
I'm certainly no expert in led's and coral growth but from a "tech" standpoint you are going backwards from current thinking..
Right or wrong.

Keep in mind the reason some of those are designed the way they are is NOT for growth or really look in the SW world.
Makes them "conveniently" able to be used for planted freshwater aquariums. Just kill the blue channel and you have an 10000k freshwater aquarium light.


To be more honest, think improving the blue channel w/ lower than 450nm blue is a personal better choice first.
As to the white channel maybe just start w/ changing the 6500k's for 10000k
Variety is the spice of life.

None of the above is "scientific" nor can I decide for you what looks good to you..
Just a last bit of food for thought.
 
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McPikie

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Orig pattern has a roughly effective "white" channel of 11000K not factoring in the "white" created by a cluster of RGV leds.
Won't effect temp much but generally is a magnta color.

blue channel is blue..

You are going back to the "old school" of mostly blue/high k white
"not blue" will have a very short supply w/ little contributed by the cool whites and only 8 diodes of "not blue" color.

Look is a personal choice so nobody can say one way or another.
Growth "needs "are still in flux w/ the "more not blue" getting a wee bit of a boost lately..

Are the 8 R/G and limited amount from 10 K diodes enough??
Not to mention dimming.

Bottom line try what you think is best. That is the only real answer.
I'm certainly no expert in led's and coral growth but from a "tech" standpoint you are going backwards from current thinking..
Right or wrong.

Keep in mind the reason some of those are designed the way they are is NOT for growth or really look in the SW world.
Makes them "conveniently" able to be used for planted freshwater aquariums. Just kill the blue channel and you have an 10000k freshwater aquarium light.


To be more honest, think improving the blue channel w/ lower than 450nm blue is a personal better choice first.
As to the white channel maybe just start w/ changing the 6500k's for 10000k
Variety is the spice of life.

None of the above is "scientific" nor can I decide for you what looks good to you..
Just a last bit of food for thought.
Again, input is greatly appreciated. That's why I havent pulled the plug and done it yet, as I keep thinking "is that enough white though??". As you say, I might swap out the 3500's and the 6500k for the 20ks to start with. That will be a lot of cool white making it effectively just a blue n white unit, with only 4red s and 4 greens. I will be running the white channel lower percentage anyways. Then I guess I could look at swapping out some blues for some 420nm and 390nm
 
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McPikie

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Having looked at the original "Pro-Reef" spec

UKML by Phil Cookson, on Flickr

It doesnt actually look too disimilar from what I had planned with mine below

ProReef by Phil Cookson, on Flickr

27 white in the original as opposed to 24 in mine

Only issue I have is I am not sure what blues are in the pro-reef, they would be a mix of 450/460 as far as I am aware
 
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McPikie

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