Ext 112 ushio 400 wat MH System.

[X-37B]

Here is the radium on 400 setting. The iPower has a super lumen setting also.
Lower par numbers but it's a nice crisp white to my eyes.
Par numbers go up quick if I raise the wand.
I will get some numbers at 6", 12" and just under the surface at 16" for both bulbs later.
A quick reading around 10" off the bottom was over 500 at the center.
Blue peak was 447.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

So here is the first mockup of the 3 fixtures.
All fixtures are 31" to the bottom.
This will simulate 14" above the water and 17" to the bottom of this system.
This is the 8×15 RB fixture with the Ushio 10K 400 watt and running no glass this round.
Bulb has only ran for 30 minutes.
Once the bulb cools I will test the 20K.
Par meter is a Parwise running in air mode.
Ballast is an iPower selectable running at 400.
The 10K is nice and white with a nice blue peak at 424.

The Ushio spec says 400w needs an M59 ballast. I received two electronic ballasts that can switch from 250-600, they are new and I think for growing the stuff I could never get into as a kid. Will those work on a bulb requiring an M59? There are no model numbers that align with an M59 or even close on the ballasts. I need to get some halides going this weekend and I really don’t want to fire up the 250w Ushios I have and the caymans need HQIs, which I am sol right now. I really want to get my new 110g lowboy up tomorrow but I need to move some things around to make that happen.

 

[X-37B]

The Ushio spec says 400w needs an M59 ballast. I received two electronic ballasts that can switch from 250-600, they are new and I think for growing the stuff I could never get into as a kid. Will those work on a bulb requiring an M59? There are no model numbers that align with an M59 or even close on the ballasts. I need to get some halides going this weekend and I really don’t want to fire up the 250w Ushios I have and the caymans need HQIs, which I am sol right now. I really want to get my new 110g lowboy up tomorrow but I need to move some things around to make that happen.

The spec reads M59/E. They work well on the iPowor E ballasts I run.
Some ballasts can run different wattage. If the ballast says 250 400 600 then it may be one.
I have a 400/600 it's over 10 years old.

 

[PaulErik]

The Ushio 400 watt bulbs should be fine on electronic ballasts. M59\E means the bulb is designed to be operated on a magnetic ANSI M59 ballast but the E is for enclosed rated bulb. Ushio has always just recommended the appropriate magnetic ballasts for the Aqualite bulbs. The 250 watt bulbs seem more sensitive to electronic ballasts. The high operating frequency from electronic ballasts causes arc instability. Sometimes noticeable flicker is visible. This could potentially damage the bulb overtime.

Here is a test showing a bulb used on the appropriate ANSI spec magnetic ballast versus an electronic ballast.

 

[PaulErik]

Some things to consider when doing PAR comparisons with halide bulbs, the bulbs should be burned in and when testing in another horizontal reflector/fixture the arc tube (exhaust tip/nipple) orientation needs to stay the same or another burn in period will be needed to stabilize the bulb again. Otherwise the readings can vary a lot at times.

 

[X-37B]

The Ushio 400 watt bulbs should be fine on electronic ballasts. M59\E means the bulb is designed to be operated on a magnetic ANSI M59 ballast but the E is for enclosed rated bulb. Ushio has always just recommended the appropriate magnetic ballasts for the Aqualite bulbs. The 250 watt bulbs seem more sensitive to electronic ballasts. The high operating frequency from electronic ballasts causes arc instability. Sometimes noticeable flicker is visible. This could potentially damage the bulb overtime.

Here is a test showing a bulb used on the appropriate ANSI spec magnetic ballast versus an electronic ballast.

I will watch for that if I run them. Thanks.

 

[X-37B]

Some things to consider when doing PAR comparisons with halide bulbs, the bulbs should be burned in and when testing in another horizontal reflector/fixture the arc tube (exhaust tip/nipple) orientation needs to stay the same or another burn in period will be needed to stabilize the bulb again. Otherwise the readings can vary a lot at times.

Thanks.
This was just a test to see what the spread looks like and what par values are for reference and which fixture/bulb I may use.

Yea only 30 minutes on the bulbs and it will be different after a few weeks burn in. I can't do that until I have the system in place.

I have never tested halides before. I just ran them and never worried about it.
From the 2 I would run the RB.
More interested in the spread any fixtures gives over this systems dimensions. The power will be there for anything I want to grow with either bulb I end up running.

 

[X-37B]

Picked up a M59 magnetic 400 watt ballast to have if needed and to compare.

 

[X-37B]

When the M59 ballast gets here I will compare it to the iPower e ballast on the RB fixture.
Still waiting on the socket extender for the OG.
Should be interesting to see what it can do with the 10k Ushio in the OG. I'm thinking this fixture should give a more even distribution of light/par over my 36"×36 area.
Socket extender will be here in a few days.

 

[X-37B]

I posted on another thread and forgot here.
The OG spread was similar with par reading close enough that I will be going with the RB fixture to start.
I put the glass on the RB and par did not vary across the system.

The fixture will eventually be 14
off the surface. It will adjustable from 2" off the surface to most likely a fixed at 14" but not sure yet.

 

[X-37B]

So I now have a ballast box and an M135 kit for the radium 20K comming next week.
I will compare the eballast to the M59 for the Ushio 10K.
Also the M135 to compare it to the eballast.

Also have 2 meridian 24' 14K edge bars comming next week.

They will go on this 8020 frame and attachment will be secured with a tnut and screw.

 

[X-37B]

Edge are here. I only mounted 1 and ordered 2 tnuts for the other side.

 

[PaulErik]

The 400 watt bulbs typically appear to operate better (light/PAR output) on electronic ballasts. The radium certainly will because it is designed to operate at 360-380 watts (actual lamp watts and not ballast input). Electronic ballasts are usually referred to universal ballasts because of the way they operate. Electronic ballasts are designed to push a bulb at that wattage and maintain that wattage. Magnetic ballasts on the other hand only limit the lamp operating current and lets the lamp set the operating voltage. Then this combination sets the actual lamp wattage. I did a lot of lamp and ballast testing back in the day. I could dig through my files to find some examples.

 

[X-37B]

The 400 watt bulbs typically appear to operate better (light/PAR output) on electronic ballasts. The radium certainly will because it is designed to operate at 360-380 watts (actual lamp watts and not ballast input). Electronic ballasts are usually referred to universal ballasts because of the way they operate. Electronic ballasts are designed to push a bulb at that wattage and maintain that wattage. Magnetic ballasts on the other hand only limit the lamp operating current and lets the lamp set the operating voltage. Then this combination sets the actual lamp wattage. I did a lot of lamp and ballast testing back in the day. I could dig through my files to find some examples.

Some examples when you have time would be interesting to see.
I got the ballast just see if there is any difference in output.
Only method I have for testing is a par meter.
I most likely will run the eballast, that was the plan. I have more eballasts than I need, lol.

 

[X-37B]

This is a old ballast test for Ushio 400 watt 14K.
This show's the M59 pulling more power then the M135 which is the standard ballast recommended.
Trying to understand the numbers.

 

[X-37B]

The Ushio 400 watt bulbs should be fine on electronic ballasts. M59\E means the bulb is designed to be operated on a magnetic ANSI M59 ballast but the E is for enclosed rated bulb. Ushio has always just recommended the appropriate magnetic ballasts for the Aqualite bulbs. The 250 watt bulbs seem more sensitive to electronic ballasts. The high operating frequency from electronic ballasts causes arc instability. Sometimes noticeable flicker is visible. This could potentially damage the bulb overtime.

Here is a test showing a bulb used on the appropriate ANSI spec magnetic ballast versus an electronic ballast.

I look up M39/E on Ushios website.
The E stands for mogal base.
I'm assuming you mean enclosed means a mogal base or am I reading it wrong?

 

[t5Nitro]

I’ll read the thread later. Just came to quickly say, “knew you’d be back.” =)

Halide magic. Can’t match it.

 

[t5Nitro]

duplicate post.

 

[t5Nitro]

duplicate post.

 

[Reefering1]

I look up M39/E on Ushios website.
The E stands for mogal base.
I'm assuming you mean enclosed means a mogal base or am I reading it wrong?

I always thought the "E" is for electronic, meaning the bulb is suitable on m59 and/ or electronic ballasts...(?)