Extend an overflow through a wall?

texdoc77

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Here is the situation. I want my tank to sit pretty much flush with the wall. This wall is actually a dividing wall between my tank and my fishroom. Check out the build thread for pix of this. My wife does not want me to cut out a large hole for the overflow box on the back of the tank since that will mean cutting studs. So, I came up with this:


aquarium setup-14.jpg


This way the internal overflow is held tight by the aquarium bulkhead and a slip fit PVC pipe runs through the wall (there will be two of these as most overflows are connected by two) to the external overflow that is situated on the opposite side of the dividing wall. Where another slip fit bulk head would receive the PVC pipe and attach to the external overflow. I would of course support the external overflow box so the extended weight does not cause any problems. I also plan to cut two smaller holes for return lines. This would allow the DT to sit flush to the wall and not be pushed out by any plumbing, it also gives me excellent access to the plumbing. I would consider adding a union somewhere so it is not hard piped through the wall.

Any thoughts good or bad would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

SC
 

Greybeard

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Works for me...

Here's a shot of the dry tank, I'm using H2Overflows, available here:

I'm also using their Siphon Stopper returns, which I don't recommend. DIY would be just as good, and far cheaper... but the overflows work very well, with the added bonus of being able to unplug them from the inside bulkhead and see STRAIGHT through to the overflow box.

Paint2.jpg


On the other side of that wall is a acrylic box a friend glued up for me, a pair of bulkheads, and a bit of pipe. You can see it here...

Electrical1.jpg


I have since switched out most of what you see, but the overflow box is still in use. That image, though older, shows the setup best. There's a stud running between the two overflow bulkheads... and it's a load bearing wall, so I didn't want to cut it.

You _WILL_ have to glue those thru pipes, and gaining access to move things is going to be a problem, but the idea DOES WORK... quite well, for me, at least.
 
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texdoc77

texdoc77

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And a couple current shots:
This is eerily similar to the set up I will ultimately have. My biggest concern was that somehow the longer horizontal run would cause problems with drainage. I thought about adding a union once the PVC comes through the wall and before the external overflow box, but I can't work that out in my mind completely. I guess if push comes to shove I just cut the pipe and re run, and its easier with a dedicated fish room.
 

Grill

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Following. Setting up a 210g with the same circumstances. The overflow box should arrive this week.
 

Greybeard

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Flow rates for me are fine. You can move a bunch of water through 2x 2" pipes. I'm using 3 x 1" pipes for the BeAnAnimal setup, the siphon tube runs almost at capacity. My return pump is rated at 1900gph, and I'm running it full speed. Don't get quite that, with head pressure, but it's probably pretty close.

Keep the overflows clean... I run a brush through the short bits of 2" pipe every once in a while. Top edge of the outside overflow box is at the same height as the tank rim... can't overflow one without overflowing both.

I really wanted a disconnect between the tank and the overflow box. Couldn't find a way to make it work. A 2" union was simply too big.

If I ever have to move the tank, I'll need to cut those two pipes, and I'll need 4 new 2" bulkheads to re-install. Happily, I don't believe I'll be moving the tank any time soon :)

Best of luck to you!
 
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texdoc77

texdoc77

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Flow rates for me are fine. You can move a bunch of water through 2x 2" pipes. I'm using 3 x 1" pipes for the BeAnAnimal setup, the siphon tube runs almost at capacity. My return pump is rated at 1900gph, and I'm running it full speed. Don't get quite that, with head pressure, but it's probably pretty close.

Keep the overflows clean... I run a brush through the short bits of 2" pipe every once in a while. Top edge of the outside overflow box is at the same height as the tank rim... can't overflow one without overflowing both.

I really wanted a disconnect between the tank and the overflow box. Couldn't find a way to make it work. A 2" union was simply too big.

If I ever have to move the tank, I'll need to cut those two pipes, and I'll need 4 new 2" bulkheads to re-install. Happily, I don't believe I'll be moving the tank any time soon :)

Best of luck to you!
I also really like how you put up a piece of ply wood to attach your equipment to the wall. Again, exactly what I was thinking. I wonder if I placed it off the wall a little if I could run my cords behind it... something to look into...
 

Greybeard

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I also really like how you put up a piece of ply wood to attach your equipment to the wall. Again, exactly what I was thinking. I wonder if I placed it off the wall a little if I could run my cords behind it... something to look into...

Probably could. I was going more for ease of service than looks. The excess wire is all tucked into the wall cavity. Makes it real easy to grab a single cable and follow it to it's end. Want it to look nice and clean? Close the door. Having to un-loom wire wrapped bundles to chase a cable is not worth the effort, in my opinion.

If you note the front, tank view... there's an aluminum panel, almost the width of the tank, covering the wall above the tank. It serves a couple of purposes. First, it's a splash guard. Wiping salt and such off of finished aluminum is easy. Second, it's 3/4" off the wall, and covering the 2" wire hole that I driled. Lighting, pumps... there are things that you're going to want to run cables through the wall for. This plate hides them. Light cables come out over the top, and run a couple of inches to the light fixture. Pump cables come out the bottom, where they're nearly entirely hidden.

Speaking of pumps... Make sure you cut enough wall out of the way to position wave pumps. Anywhere the drywall is against the glass, you're not getting a pump magnet in there. Also, a good idea to use a bit of masking tape and firmly attach those magnets to the glass inside the wall cavity. Otherwise, you'll loose the outside magnet when you go to clean your flow pumps. Fishing for magnets inside of a wall cavity with a rope and a big steel bolt is not much fun. Ask me how I know :)

Enjoy!
 
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texdoc77

texdoc77

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Probably could. I was going more for ease of service than looks. The excess wire is all tucked into the wall cavity. Makes it real easy to grab a single cable and follow it to it's end. Want it to look nice and clean? Close the door. Having to un-loom wire wrapped bundles to chase a cable is not worth the effort, in my opinion.
Close the door he says, LOL. Maybe, but that is something worth thinking about.

If you note the front, tank view... there's an aluminum panel, almost the width of the tank, covering the wall above the tank. It serves a couple of purposes. First, it's a splash guard. Wiping salt and such off of finished aluminum is easy. Second, it's 3/4" off the wall, and covering the 2" wire hole that I driled. Lighting, pumps... there are things that you're going to want to run cables through the wall for. This plate hides them. Light cables come out over the top, and run a couple of inches to the light fixture. Pump cables come out the bottom, where they're nearly entirely hidden.
I did notice that panel. I actually already have a lower passthrough that my electric cords will run through.

Speaking of pumps... Make sure you cut enough wall out of the way to position wave pumps. Anywhere the drywall is against the glass, you're not getting a pump magnet in there. Also, a good idea to use a bit of masking tape and firmly attach those magnets to the glass inside the wall cavity. Otherwise, you'll loose the outside magnet when you go to clean your flow pumps. Fishing for magnets inside of a wall cavity with a rope and a big steel bolt is not much fun. Ask me how I know :)

Enjoy!
Thank you for the information about the magnets. I would not have thought about this. As far as the tank goes it will be slightly off the wall for this reason. I'm not sure exactly where the pumps will go and a little molding at the back will hide it.
 

ca1ore

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I ran a tank this way many years ago. I tend not to push my overflows to the max, so had no problems. If you do plan to push it perhaps oversize the linking pipes.
 

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